OK I hate to keep asking for more pics but I still dont see any pics that show the wiring at all the pots, jacks,etc.

On the full gut pic you posted it appears to be missing a 100 ohm resistor going from the tone knob to the ground buss. I cant see much more due to the lip of the chassis

One thing I cannot help you with is making sure the resistors are the correct value ( I am colorblind, thank god for digital multimeters ) but I am pretty good at finding miswiring so keep the pics coming and I will see if there is anything you are missing. You said you resoldered 90%, may want to reflow the other 10% for good measure.

Dont give up, I think you are getting closer

Todd

Yes diodes are in correct direction but they should be insulated!

 There should be a cap and a resistor at the standby switch!


Cant tell where the wires are going on the first pot next to the power switch but does not look right! Should just go to next pot over ( Mid ).

This is the layout you are following right ?>  http://www.ceriatone.com/images/layoutPic/marshallLayout/18wattTMBceriatone.jpg

I still do not see speaker ground at star ground! is this pic taken since that fix?

Please try to take some pics that will show the whole amps guts if possible as well as closeups of the tubes socket area and all the pots as well.

Todd

Very cool Nik,

I am very tempted

Todd

Thats great man

Yeah, try to post more pics of the full amp guts and we will try to help get this thing working the way it should be.
Do you have a solder sucker? If so I would suggest desoldering about 5 points at a time, crimp the wire into a loop on the terminal and then resolder. Sounds like a lot of work but I bet you could get them all done in about an hours work and it will make the amp more reliable/gig worthy for a much longer time. Like Chris said some of the wires may be worth restripping if they turn out to be too much of a PITA. On the wires you restrip tin the stripped end of the wire before sticking through terminal hole and crimping, it will keep the wire from fraying when you bend it.
Let us know if all the voltages are checking out, if so the problem will be in the signal path most likely and will narrow down the problem

Todd

Just noticed something!
Cant see all because of pic but it appears there is no wire to ground off the speaker jacks. Should be landed right where your OT (0v) is!
On the layout it shows it going to star ground.

On both the Ctone layout and pics on the site it shows the impedance switch to the right of the speaker jacks. On your pic it is not. I am now a little confused.

The cap and diodes at the rectifier tube should be insulated.

Todd

Here is link to voltage chart
http://www.ceriatone.com/tlbrBorderSub/link.htm

Click on voltage chart at bottom then in Excel file at bottom arrow over to tab that says TMB. Your voltage readings should be reasonably close to the voltages posted. All reading are measured in DC to ground. Once again only proceed if you know how to do this safely as there are voltages inside the amp that can kill you.

Todd

No worries
If you can post more pics that show the rest of the guts we may be able to help track down the issue. It does sound as if an open ckt somewhere, which BTW is better than a short ckt .
If you have double checked all connections to the layout I would suggest reflowing the solder at each connection. If any solder looks cloudy reflow it for sure.
Also, do you have a meter? If you can power up without blowing fuse I would next check some voltages. Make sure you know how to do this safely before proceeding though.

Todd

Not sure what the problem is. The power light comes on?
The bulb test will tell you if you have a short circuit by lighting bright if shorted.

Pics dont show much but one thing I will mention is that all wire connections should have a good mechanical connection before being soldered. Meaning the wire ends should be looped through and crimped so that they are a tight connection before soldering. Just pushing the wire in the hole and then using solder as a glue is just asking for trouble if not now in the future.

Todd

Does the OP mean Classictone? by Magnetic Components.

I would register over there and step in for Ceriatones defense but I dont even think it's necessary. After reading that thread I think to anyone who reads through it will be quite apparent the OP is a moron that doesn't know what he is doing and has no place building amps.
I sometimes feel like punishing myself and go over to TGP to read through the amp section and although there is a few ( OK a lot ) jackass's over there most of the threads with ceriatone are all filled with compliments on 2 things.

A. The high quality
B. How F'ing cool Nik is

Dont let the few a$$holes get to you it aint worth it. Now get back to releasing that SSS

Todd

Thats great, let us know once youve put a few hours on it.
If you have a meter and want to check that ground you can place one lead on the ground prong of the IEC connector and then check continuity between it and the grounded wires where they land at the board. Should read about 1-2 ohms at most. i woiuldn't worry about it though unless it starts acting up again

Todd

No, I have no complaints regarding the transition between the clean and OD of my FM50. On my HRM I spent hours trying to get the clean and OD to match so when I switch over there isn't this big jump in bassiness and what not.
Both of my OTS's cleans are very similar, the FM maybe has a little more chimeiness
for lack of better word.

Either way whichever OTS you choose will be a good choice, they are all great

Todd

Separate EQ is nice but just know that it is set it and forget it. Once inside a cab it can be a real hassle to take everything apart just to adjust the bass on the OD. But I guess its better to have the option rather than none at all.
FWIW I have both a FM50 ( non-hrm ) and a HRM MK2 , I like them both equally and do not miss having separate EQ for the FM50 at all.
I cant comment on the standard HRM but I will say that when playing either the FM50 or the HRM MK2 with my 2550 it is very apparent that neither are at all Marshally compared to a Marshall, which is why they work so well together with a dual Marshall/Dumble rig. The EQ is like this ^ / V
Todd

http://ceriatoneforum.com/index.php?topic=1117.0

here is some info on the different models, and if you search the forum you will find a lot more. Contact Nik and let him know what tones you are after as well before ordering as he may suggest a particular model for you as well!


Todd

Cool man
I did not know that Henry also offered amp work as well as cabs. Very cool

If you are getting a separate OT why are you not getting a different PT as well to save on shipping?

Todd