I am sure you mean to say you ordered the FM100 from Nik and the cab from Henry right?
I see you got the head cab, what type speaker cab will you be running?

Todd

Both OTS cabs are tall cabs I purchased from Henry ( Tenguitars ).
On the top cab I modified the grill to accommodate my C-lator using scissors and jigsaw. As is I have to remove C-lator to change my output tubes but for me that is not a problem since I do not change them often. Ideally if the grill was made with C-lator cutout at very bottom, rather than sitting above the bottom cross bar you could change tubes without removing the C-lator


Todd

I got one sitting around are you in the U.S.?
Todd

On this link at the bottom click on voltage chart!
On the excel file go to the FM50 and check every mentioned voltage while writing down your readings.
Since your PT is a higher secondary I would expect some minimal difference in voltages. Let us know if anything is way off

http://www.ceriatone.com/tlbrBorderSub/link.htm

Todd

Another suggestion.
I have found crimp connectors ( the ones you have used on the star ground ) to be unreliable in past projects. This may not be the cause of the problem you are having  and would probably make sure re-flowing the solder doesn't fix the problem first but I do recommend using solder type ground lugs.

Also noticed the chassis is powder coated/painted. Make sure it is bare metal at any ground points. I use a dremmel to grind down to bare metal but a file or even sand paper would work.

Todd

Hey
I dont really have any pictures of a step by step.
But heres what I do.

a. Strip the wire about 1/4 to 3/8 ''

b.  If stranded tin wire with very small amount of solder to keep wire from fraying. ( Not too much though or else it might not fit through hole you are soldering to.)

c. With tip of needle nose pliers bend the stripped section in 1/2 making a hook with the stripped part of wire.

D. route hook through terminal hole that it is to be soldered to, then with needle nose squeeze the wire together rather tight.

At this point you should have a good mechanical connection, meaning you do not have to hold it in place and it will not move while soldering.

when soldering hold the iron on one side of the connection and apply the solder to the other side once it is hot enough. The solder should never even touch the iron but just melt when applied to the heated wire and terminal connection.

Rather than chopstick I would suggest doing the Texas shotgun approach and just re-flow every joint. I do see a few points where the wire is just inserted and then soldered rather than crimping a loop before soldering. On those I would desolder, re-strip and reconnect. All connections should have a good mechanical connection before applying solder. I would also desolder the caps that fly from the board to the pots and put heatshrink over the exposed leads as well.
Good news is it is just an intermittent problem so we dont really have to chase down any miswiring.
A small set of needle nose with 45 degree bend makes doing these connections so much easier.

Todd

No I looked for blue as well.
Was yours blue before it blew?

Todd

Agreed, very easy fix. IMO
Just need a soldering iron

Todd

1/2 watt would be fine!

I am almost positive this is the lamp to replace with.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Shin-Chin/R9-63L-RED-6V/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtEjy7lsqBi5VSxz%2fhgbEJYtFHrvdeCx%252b4%3d

Nik suggested to put a 47ohm resistor to one leg to run lamp cooler for longer life.

Todd

If you are in the US look 4 threads down
Title says it all.

I highly recommend the cabs from Tenguitars

Todd

The neon light that is in your OTS, does not have interchangeable light bulbs/ leds!
You would need to desolder and replace with a whole replacement lamp assembly.
I believe Nik is recommending installing a resistor in series with the lamp to make it last longer.
If you are not comfortable with desoldering and rewiring you should probably bring it to a tech.
I have seen mention of the replacement light being available at mouser, but I do not know what the part # is yet. You could use any light that runs on 6.3v but you would want it to fit in the same size mounting hole.

My light went out on my HRM as well, I will be replacing it eventually but am in no hurry.

Todd

Nice 

Been considering the Lightning for my next build once the stars and my wallet are alligned.

Todd

Ahh I see, very cool either way.