I honestly do not know if you can use the 6.3 heater tap or not, maybe someone else can chime in. But I suppose there is a reason Nik had the 6 volt tap added on his trannies.
The most suitable trannie for your build is going to be the 40-18042, then add the $7 radio shack trannie for the relay switching or get the trannie from Nik IMO.

Todd

Not sure which wattage amp 50 or 100 but the spec sheet you posted does not have the correct bias (93 rather than 60 )voltage and also does not have the 5 volt tap for the relay switching.

If 50watt the correct PT to use from Classictone is the 40-18073
Check spec sheet on that one for reference.

As for 100 watt the 40-18042 has correct voltages but does not have the 5 volt tap so you would have to add small trannie for the 5-6 volt just like HAD did originally

Todd

J1 and 2 are shielded wires!
The 2 green wires that land on the ground of the speaker jacks are the shield.
Do not ground the other end of the shielded wires

Todd W

Checked the chart on the ceriatone website and it shows 466 volts on the plates on the 240 volt model. Nothing for the 120 volt model, but the voltage difference between 490 and 465 is around 5 % difference.
How do all your other readings compare to the chart? If you have not checked them I would suggest doing so and noting them down as well as the voltage on your wall outlet as well.

Todd

Use the voltage chart here to find where your voltages should be approximately
http://www.ceriatone.com/tlbrBorderSub/link.htm

Todd

Ok when I think of the dropping string I am thinking of the resistors on the Ps bd where in previous post it was pointed out that there wAs an incorrect resistor. That will screw everything up. I am colorblind so it is impossible for me to confirm. Please tell me this has been corrected.

Todd

Get a K or C-lator. Allows you to turn your master up on the amp then use the return on the whatever-lator as your volume knob

Todd

Sorry about the ears!
Your voltages are low all around
What are you reading for HT and also at the OT CT?
Also are the voltages at V4 and V5 off as well?
At every ground did you sand or grind the white paint off to bare metal?

Todd

Pins 7 and 8 of V2 look awfully close in the pic but it may just be the angle.
Other than that nothing obvious is jumping out at me.
Are all of your voltages matching the voltage chart?
Did notice some stray solder globs on chassis that you will want to get out of there.
Have you tried chopsticking with guitar plugged in to see if moving any of the wires around increases or decreased the hum/squeal?
You said the relay was in backwards, do your tone knobs work now?

Todd

edit:

Does your footswitch work and do the lights on it light when engaged?
If you have PAB engaged the tone controls do nothing!

Todd

Hey Jeff
From what I can see in the pics there appears to be some cold solder joints, particularily on the preamp board where you have landed the coax. I would def reflow those. Heat up those eyelets until the solder pools up like the ones Niks crew soldered.
Also as the other guys have mentioned some of the wiring is left a little longer than should be. When I build my amps I always aim to keep about a 1/4'' of separation between all the wiring when possible.
The wire that runs from the PS board to the preamp board and ties to the PI pot should be rerouted under the board if possible.
Also if possible maybe post some closeup pics of the wiring at the preamp tubes especially V2.


Todd

Can you take some closeup pics of the amp guts and maybe post them in a new thread, maybe labeled need help clean works but od screams. This way you will get more eyes on it and once figured out the thread could be referenced easily for new builders that may have the same problems.

Todd

Your OT prmaries need to be swapped, then you will be rockin

Todd

Your drawing is correct!
All the voltages off the trannie are AC so there is not a polarity!
Hope this helps

Todd