When I built my HRM MK2 50 watter I used the 40-18073 xfrmr.
Here, http://www.classictone.net/40-18073.pdf
I did have to use a rat tail file and file diagnally inwards at each hole to make the trafo fit the chassis but it was really quick clean and easy. You will have to do this with any of the classictone trannies AFAIK.
Hope this helps.

Todd

When your looking at the spec sheet , below the the diagram where it show the voltage taps it reads where the text is  ( Bias 50v  Red/grn Red/ylw )
Most if not all the classic tone trannies spec sheets are written this way.


Todd

For a 50W OTS with 6l6's I would use the 40-18029
has 355-0-355, 50v bias, 6.3 heater tap and 5v as well
 

Todd

Thanks for the good words Chris. Between having my schedule change at work and dealing with a home internet connection worse than dial up, I just haven't been able to find the time to get on here much.
As far as the MKII goes I find myself playing it much more than my FM lately. The cleans on the MKII are a little cleaner and less plinky than the FM and the OD is a little less gritty I guess you could say more dumbley. It may be the ME mod on my FM but after going from the MKII to the FM the FM sounds much darker almost muffled compared to the MK it takes a little while to get used to. Either way both are great amps! I'll try to check back in every now and then. Oh and sorry no clips.
Regards
Todd

 The treble has no effect when you use the PAB. PAB bypasses the tone stack so neither treble, bass or mid pot will work with it engaged. If you have OD switched on the tone stack ( HRM ) knobs are located inside the amp on a circuit board!.

Todd

To start put everything at 12:00 including C-lator, except maybe put OD trim on rear of amp at 9:00-10:00 then tweak from there to taste. Use the Return on C-lator as Master volume. Use Ratio to match the OD volume and clean channel volume levels.

Todd

Refer to this thread
http://ceriatoneforum.com/index.php?topic=4012.0

You could make the 2x12 switchable from 4 to 16 if you go with the 8 ohm speakers.

Most people are using G12-65 or EVM12l speakers with their D-clones, have you played your HRM through G12H30 V30 setup already?

Todd

No problem
Let us know if you have any questions

Todd

Hey Michael

There should be images on the Ceriatone website to use as a guide for lead dress.
I'm not sure if this is your first build but here are a few tips:

1. Grind down to bare metal on the chassis at the grounds with a dremmel or sand paper before mounting tabs. ( the painted chassis is non-conductive )

2. Use a good soldering iron, not a $15 radioshack deal

3. Best tool for ampbuilding I have found so far is a small pair of 45 degree angled needlenose pliers. ( makes lead dress 10 times easier )

4. pre tin your wire after stripping. ( makes step 5. come out more professional looking without frayed wire ends )

5. Make a solid mechanical connection before soldering, by bending stripped wire end into a hook/loop and routing through terminal then crimping tight. ( you should not have to hold wire in place while soldering ).

6. I use loctite blue thread locker on all nuts and screws so they will never come loose from vibration.

7. With every step throughout the build ask yourself " will this last 30-40 years without needing to be repaired? "

8. If there is anything you are unsure of ask here and you will usually get a fairly quick response!

Todd

Believe me I am very tempted but I already have a 2550 that gets me pretty much all the high gain marshall tone I want at the moment. I have been considering a JTM45 and a couple other classics as well that are more geared towards classic rock/blues. Either way its been a few months since i have fed my amp building addiction so something will be on my bench shortly.

Todd

Cool ,
So how does it sound?
Also, did he tell you what SCN stands for? Just curious

Todd

Was it the SCN to ground?
And how does everything sound now?

Todd

Well Nik has customers in all countries so that layout is applicable for them, but most layouts say "choose your wall voltage"

Todd

Yes, you should use the 120v tap!
100 v is for Japan if I recall

Todd

I do not know what SCN stands for, but it is in the same location on the PT as E so that makes me wonder?
I recommend you contact the manufacturer and ask before grounding it. Appears GDS uses hyboer or EMS trafos but I still cant find any specs that show SCN! I bet this needs to be grounded just dont want you to ground it until sure.

It is a little blurry but the middle lug of your bass pot appears to be a cold joint! Solder should not be balled up like that

Also, I do not see any wires landed on the turrets of the main board coming from your pots. If you landed them on the bottom of the board you should double check that each wire is going to the correct spot and that the solder joints are good. Turrets need a little more heat to get good solder joints.

I would still like to see pics of the rest of your internal wiring, such as the jacks and the rest of the pots to the right side of the last pics you just posted.

I will be pretty busy today but when I get some free time I will check back this afternoon

Todd