Hi, first time poster (the netherlands), just became the proud owner of a FM100 head with build-in C-lator, which I'm running into a TT-Cabs "Dumble"cabinet with G12-65 Heritage. Totally stock. Speakers and head are brand new, no burn-in period, so these questions might be premature, I'll ask anyway:

First, I agree with other posters saying the FM is unusable without the C-Lator, harsh and bright. I run the C-lator with the drive on 12 'o clock, first bright off (on is horrible?), In on 12 'o clock, Out low so I can open up the master volume on the amp, and the second bright on. Bright on the amp is also on. Guitars played sofar; PRS HBII, The Paul with T-Top's and Tele with Broadcasters.

Here's a clip if you can stand the noodling, I wasn't really playing, just hitting notes and listening to the way the amp responded ;-) It was recorded with a crappy mike, there's no low end to speak of, but you can sort of make out the good and the bad. This is the PRS HBII by the way.



From the few hours of playing I did sofar (sorta bedroom volume), I like the clean; round but spanky. The OD I can't nail yet. I think it's the "fizz" that's bothering me a bit. If I set up the clean the way I like (above settings), I feel there's a little bit too much fizz on the OD. It's better if I turn off the second bright switch on the C-lator, but then the clean suffers. So I guess the questions are:

What part of the amp actually generates this fizz and can something be done?
Can it be done seperately from the clean?
Is there a way to reduce the volume jump of the PAB?

Thanks for any thoughts!

Thanks Erwin! I'll give that a try tonight. What is the relation between presence, tonecontrols and PAB? I thought PAB took the tonecontrols out of the signalpath? Is what you're saying, the more the controls are open in "non-pab setting", the less(?) the gap between non-PAB and PAB?

Erwin,  Do you have a source for pre-made cables that you can share, or do we need to build our own?  What's the optimum lengths? Thanks!!!

Welcome Pethenis

Do you have external OD trimmer on rear panel? On my FM50 if that is set too high it can be really fizzy. I keep mine set at about 9:00. Anything past 12:00 is unuseable IMO


Todd

The bright settings on the Clator are useful sometimes, but not as base for your tone. I use them to get certain more clean tones on certain gutiars with certain setting. The bright setting on the Clator with the amp OD is not very good. I will use it sometimes with an OD pedal in fromt of the amp.

Give yourself some time to bond with the amp. It will pan out after some time. And it will change to the better with break in. 

Nice playing, BTW


Edit: I read the one post incorrectly and gave the wrong info.

I'm not aware of any pre made (with jack plugs) Rg400 cable. Optimum lengt is around 2 meters.

10 R-Angle Switchcraft 1/4" plugs and some RG-400 cable coming up!!!!  Two cables will be between the amp and D-lator, with a third also connecting with the rack mount effects unit in the head... Of course the cable runs for the outboard dely too.... Cabling is going to be tough with my rig, so I need to keep things quiet and with minimal loss.  Thanks!

I'm glad you liked  it. On the cables; I'll PM you.
The FM serie is pretty much good as it is. If you like a brighter sound for your cleans you might wanna try Electrovoice EVM12L speakers.
They have more high content but there is no fizz on the OD. On the other hand this speaker does need some serious time to settle before getting a nice tone.