Come to think of it I think I have a 1 amp in the HT fuse socket  as well

First, I'd be wondering why the fuse blew in the first place, could be a problem with a bad tube or a short to ground. You could damage your amp if you just keep replacing fuses.

There are two fuses, at least on my OTS, one is a 1/2 amp fast blow which is underneath the chassis on the left side near the power transformer, it is a standard size fuse, the other on the back panel of the chassis is a 2.0 slo-blow fuse and it is the shorter size fuse. Both were available at Radio Shack.

Thought I'd share this experience with you guys, this has happened to me. During the tweaking of an OTS, if you unbolt the main circuit board from the standoffs, be especially careful with the wire from the bias pot wiper and the other two wires from the output tube grids when you replace the board and bolt it down. They have a tendency to ride up on the shoulder of the stand-off post, which very neatly snips a divot out of the insulation when you bolt the board back down. The wire then shorts to ground, and causes a lot of headaches and damage.

There may be some pictures on Ceriatone.com under the "complete amp" tab that could help you out

Would you say the Bluesmaster gets you closer to a blackface tone than the OTS?

Mcinku, that was a great contribution to this forum and you have all of our thanks, the plate voltages look great, I can't wait to hear it. beautiful job!

That's even better, why didn't I think of that?

You might want to take a look at how this guy wires his controls, it seems like it would be about 10X easier this way; he makes this jig out of wood by tracing the chassis front panel

http://www.soundgaragetales.com/amp-building/front-control-wiring-session

Ahh thanks, I was going crazy because it sounded "thinner" with the deep switch in the "up" position

Hi Mcinku;
I shamelessly copied the way you wired your Deep switch, because the dress was so much neater, but after two consecutive rewiring attempts, the sound continues to only get deeper with the switch in "down" position rather than the "up" position. Is that how yours works as well? If not, can you think of what I might have done wrong?
Thanks,

Pine

OK, I understand,

Thank you!

I used the 150K 2W resistor off the FET board and ran it to ground, hopefully that will do the trick.

Erwin_ve, thanks for the reply.

 Just to clarify, when you said the breakup would be less with a 100K plate, did you mean that it would break up at a lower volume than the high plate, or that it just won't break up as much as a high plate will ( using a Strat, I cannot get the clean channel to break up at all with the high plates). Also wanted to know if I just changed V1A and left V1B alone if the OD channel would still be adversely affected.

Thanks again for your time

I have added a deep switch to this amp, and used the FET input hole, taking the FET out of the circuit. Should I add a resistor to simulate the FET board now? If so, what value? Would I connect it across wires X-2 and X-4 in the October, 2008 layout?

From what I'm reading (non-HRM) amps with 100K plate load resistors and 1.5K cathode resistors have a great clean tone and amps with 220K/150K plate load resistors and 3.3k/2.2K cathode resistors have a better OD tone. I was thinking of trying to have the lower plate load on V1 and the higher load on V2 to try to get the best of both worlds. I'm not sure which is a better side of V1 to mod, or whether to change both sides to a 100K plate resistor going into 10uF//1K5. I'm hoping I'll get an earlier break up in the clean channel, but I don't want to change the OD channel. Would just changing V1A be a wiser choice, or just V1B?