Hello All,

I grabbed a Din-5 Y-Cable for switching channels on my OTS FM50ME and using my GCX Controller. I connected it to the amp and the "Out" or "Send" of two channels on the GCX as in as directed, and.... NADA. Neither NO/Out or NC/Send bumps the channels in any way. Nik said that my amp channels are NOT Momentary, so I figured I'd go to the well and see if anybody was able to successfully use a switcher to switch the channels on their Ceriatone. It could be the wiring of the Y-Cable, but I was going to ask around before I dissected the cable.

Anyone have an experience with this and their Ceriatone? 

Thanks!!!

Oh... and I have a EVM-12L Thiele cab.

Thanks again!

Hello all!!! Two quick questions... Well, after a set-up...

I have an eight year old OTS50 FM ME. I got it built and added the tubes and transformers, built the cab (two slots: Power Conditioner and C-Lator), and it is fed by a midi switcher, a few pedals, and is used for Country, Rock, and modern Praise & Worship. Amazing tones on the clean, but the OD is just not as creamy as I'd like. I know, it's got the ME mod to make it a tad more aggressive, but it is TOO aggressive at this point. I run the trim at 9:00, the Ratio at 9:30, and the Level high enough to balance with the clean. I keep the MV at about 4, and Volume at 5-8 depending on the vibe of the day. Use the C-Lator as the effective volume. Every setting imaginable has been tried. There just isn't creamy in there. More ratio/less level makes it muddier but also far grittier and harsh. I try various volume and tone settings on either a LP and a Tele, and it never gets CREAMY. Not horrible tone, but just too hyper aggressive.

So, the questions:

1. Any luck with switching to an AU7 or AY7 to make a creamier OD, or some other suggestion?

2. Adding to the issue noted above that I rely on midi in many venues, and I find that I don't use the OD channel much at all anymore. I know that my GCX switcher will switch the OD/PAB with the right tail. Anybody making these tails? If so, where can I pick one up? With me living in a condo now, I don't have the ability to work on things like I used to... 

With the switcher, I need to split the connector 5-P connector to two 1/4" male TS with about 3' of length.

Many thanks in advance!!!

Kevin

Call this a bump...

I want to do same thing that original poster wanted to do, but with a Voodoo Labs GCX. I'm tired of dancing for a lead... Anybody else got the OD/PAB midi latched successfully?

I'm 100% midi for all conventional pedals, unless I'm using volume or wah (obviously with these two). I've used the onboard OD/PAB in my OTS as a lead channel, but it just makes sense to use it midi. I use a volume pedal (in the effects loop) for boost, and I have sometimes use a combination of OD pedals in conjunction with the OD/PAB.

Anybody already making cables for the OTS 5-pin to work with two switcher channels (1/4")? I'm in a condominium now and I have all my tools in storage until my wife and I buy again (or maybe longer if we buy sans garage...). If not, anybody already have a schematic?

Welcome...

Great playing BTW...

With what you posted, two amps come to mind.  A Bluesmaster or 183.  Neither of those are Marshalls per se, but they will do some killer tones that are some of the best blues tones you can find.  The 183 is EL34 based, so that's why I thought of it too.  The cool thing is they also do some pristine cleans.  It may be a departure from where you were going, but it may still be worth a look.

Happy hunting.

Definitely OFF!  Yeah, you want the test resistor in place, stable, and isolated from adjacent components when you power it up.  To determine the right values for testing, just use the formula:

               1/R1 (Existing Slope) + 1/R2 (secondary test value) = Total R.

That will allow you to hear before you commit.

If you aren't comfortable moving around in an amp, you might want to get around somebody with experience.  It can hurt you quick.

Captainbackfire,

For determining what is the right voicing for the slope resistor, you can bench test lower values without a soldering iron.  If you are uncertain as to the effect of the mod or which value is "you", calculate and parallel a resistor with some alligator clips.  Be careful doing it, but it saves time...

This is a cheesy fix, but you don't HAVE to remove the other resistor.  Stack the right values in parallel you get the same thing.  IF you don't like it later, you haven't disturbed the board.

I've actually got everything for that mod... The switch, caps, wire, and knob.  I'm just a little concerned that tweaking the voicing for a brighter overall sound would alter the OD too much to be darkened effectively.  I wouldn't want to add overall brightness that left the OD lacking or dull when syphoning off the highs with the rotary switch settings.

IF you do the rotary switch mod, let me know how that works our for you!!!

That looks REALLY promising. Thanks man!!!

Yeah, I want those bright cleans without causing OD harshness.  That definitely looks like the ticket.  That will be one of my "it's slow around the holidays" projects.

Thanks again!!!!

The tones are good with the GM II and an X-Blender both in the C-lator, but the Drive/break up issue is a little annoying.  At 9:00-9:30, no issues with break-up.  I'm thinking about the treble bleed or replacing the smaller cap on the three position/main bright switch for a larger one...  I'm afraid that no matter what I do, it'll nastify the OD channel and I'll have to counter it somehow.

I expect that the Treble bleed will not fix what a bright cap changes. 

I'll let you all know if I find something....

Nope, no real change other than break-up.  The Drive at 9:30 is the sweet spot.  I got the Drive up to 2:00 with an attenuated pick attack and GMII controls, but it didn't open up the upper frequencies.

Thanks for the idea though!!!

I usually run that at about 9:30 with the input side of a G-Major at 100%.  If I run the Drive any higher, I start pegging the meter and getting break up.  I'll try backing down on the GM input to see if I have more clean headroom on the C-lator Drive.  Maybe that'll brighten it up some.

Thanks!!!

Hey all,

I've been enjoying my FM50ME since January, and the rig has gradually gotten darker and smoother as it had broken in.  Though my LP sounds really good through it, it can be a bit too dark at times.  I usually run it with the bright maxxed and the treble a little higher than the mid and lows, and with the C-lator brights off.  Either bright switch on the C-lator seems to open up the cleans, so I then turn off the amp bright caps/switch. I really like the clean channel tone with either C-lator bright switch on, but the OD channel sounds horrible with one on.  I wondered if a treble bleed on the OD channel would solve that, or would it really just polish a turd?

Anybody proven or disproven this mod? 

Set your tone controls much lower.  You'll jump more on clean than OD...