the european made 6ca7s seem just be relabeled el34s. try sylvania el34 if you can find them. a bit brighter and clearer than the el34. more evh

the first preamp tube is called v1.  see the cap on pin 3 and 8 (shared cathode) reduce it to 25uf, 16uf, 8uf or even 3.3uf
see the caps after pin 1 and 6 on the same tube - reduce them to .018 mustards (or even .015) - see if you can find originals - .018 aint that expencive.

see the last mullard or mallory tupe caps at the other end of the board (the phase splitter) - remove the 2 .1uf and try a .047uf, .033uf, .027uf or .022uf

I wouldnt do it. won't help much (2db) and wont sound as good as full power

the 50w lead (1987) and 100w super lead (1959) are basically the same amp, one being ca 50w the other ca 120w. the bigger amp will sound cleaner and have more punch and bass. and a quicker attack. the 50w will be a bit more compressed.

from 1967 to 69 the lead circuits were changed from a bass/jtm type amp with a bright cap to split cathode, v2 .68uf bypass cap. the means that the the lead amps got brighter and dirtier. the later lead circuit wont have as much clean headroom as a superbass. your superbass isnt working if it lacks headroom

I haven't seen a schematic for this circuit.

I'm not going to sell this. I just make it for myself as I cannot afford a komet

I'm boulding this now. I really enjoy it 

got trannies from heyboer (HTS-8593 [PT], HTS-5526-1RH [OT] and HTS-7750-1 [10henry choke] and parts from nik. nik's chassis and parts are good. I think this is a one off amp or perhaps a prototype. It's pretty close to a real komet, but slightly different visually (and the filtering is a tad higher altough that can be easily changed when i get 80uf and 8 uf caps)

this build is influenced by the socalled astroid layout from theampgarage

see here: http://forum.metroamp.com/viewtopic.php?t=11947
specs:
 power caps: 32uF.
no bright cap on the vol, but a 560pf over the 270 mixers
560pf treble cap, 33k slope resistor
27k feedback
preamp: 32+32uf
to qoute flames 1950: For filter cans I'd get (2) dual 32's for the two mains filters, (2) dual 16's for the screens filters, a single 32 for the phase inverter (or just one side of a dual 32) and a dual 16 for the preamp (you can wire it for either only one side of the dual 16 can for all preamp stages, or use both sides and an extra 10K decoupling resistor like the Dickinson "Hendrix" amp had.)

also: try reducing the v1 coupling caps slightly (to .018, .015 or even lower on the bass channel)

should fit a 100w cab

this amps is about 70w clean - depending on the b+ voltage. but it is more than 100w at full volume. it isn't as loud as the later 100watters. I tried one here in trondheim recently: dark and warm sound. not harsh or overly loud. the later plexi amps are much louder. hell, there are socalled 50watters that are louder than the 45/100

all the marshall jmt45/100s used a ss rectifier. the b+ voltage varied a bit - somethimes it was as high as 640v. try that with a modern kt66 like the valve art!
hendrix seem to have used the 45/100 in the first part of 1967. the tone stack mod in the dickinson amp is a slight mod. the dickinson amp also has higher filtering than many other 45/100s, but this was prop a transitional value before the amp became the el34 jtm100

other famous 45/100 users are: EC (1966-late 67 or early 68), mal young (ballbreaker and possibly elsewhere)
 

here's a clip: http://snotpope.com/downloads/20_Bones/SissyPig.mp3
the whole band was recorded with 2 overhead  mics. the express used a ecc83 in v1, ecc81s in v1 and v2 and some shitty el34s in v4 and v5

here's another clip: http://snotpope.com/downloads/20_Bones/SissyPig.mp3
the whole band was recorded with 2 overhead  mics. the express used a ecc83 in v1, ecc81s in v1 and v2 and some shitty el34s in v4 and v5

something like a the bad cat, matchless or tonebone tube pedals would be great. I guess it could sell well too.