The orange tolexed amp!

 

Thanks!

nik

I guess som of the things in SSS are pretty SVT influenced.

Like the driver tube, and the Hi/Lo filters.

I havent really seen all the old schematics of amps with the filters. But the SVT's midrange select does use inductors. It could be the case Dumble was influenced by it.

On that note, was there a Sunn Model T that used inductors in its tonestack? anybody got schematic for that particular varant?

I heard there's some that did, but I havent found the schemo.

Thanks!

Nik

Hi

Seriously? I thought these are cheap on the used market?

if so, then no point in cloning, honestly.

We used to be able to get these for like a 100 bucks here. I dont know if they cost more these days, will check ebay..

Thanks!

nik

Hi

nah...

Revisions are good, I thought it'd be a good way to keep abreast of mods, changes etc? if not, then sure, easier job for me!

We'll see abt layouts, but most likely, not.

It's cool to share but I dont get people who start out with our kits, layouts, etc and then bash us? I know it's business, but that aint cool, is it?

And as you know, the SSS, the goop is where the tone is from! LOL!

But hey, i'll price these very low, if that helps!

thanks!

Nik

When in doubt, use 630V rated caps?

Honestly, they're not hard. Almost all amps are the same, except a few.

I have always said we charge very little for complete amps, but people usually say they want to learn.

So, if we ever decide to bring kits again, i'd provide the BOM.

Right now, my BOM says " Completely wired board" <- since we did offer this only. The BOM doesnt list whatever's on the board, since thats not needed.



Thanks!

nik

Hi

Tubes are wearables, same  way your strings are.

You do need to change them from time to time.

And, when you change, some amps do need to be rebiased for the new tubes.

As for the 18W, thats cathode biased amp, just get a matched pair of EL84s.

But all in all, you do have to change the tubes, they wont last forever.

We get the JJs from Eurotubes, and they're pretty much one of the best dealers for JJ, if not the best. Ie, they do test, and match, which is important.

It is important to get tubes from good source. I do hear stories when ppl buy matched tubes from ebay or other online stores, only to discover they're off by 15mA for the bias.

pricier by USD 2-3, but would be better, in the long (even immediate) run.

Thanks!

nik

Hehe, no worries man, me too.

As for the magnet wire, I am not sure which is this? Is it the primary leads?

Anyways, thats true. I am not sure what to do anymore. I guess it's just the way it is.

It's business, so i guess it's normal to bad mouth others.

Yeah thats true on the kits, there are many players now, thats normal, as industry expands, I guess.




Thanks!

nik

Thats true, but hey, thats what makes the tube amp world go round? heh..

I was into BMX when i was a kid. And part of the big fun was swapping stems, cranks, pedals and what not.  This was before internet, people were very much more patient back then I think

On the matter, and this is the truth - even if we use USA made caps, the moment these caps enter Asian air space, they all become sucky.

Otherwise, definitely those people wont say we use sucky parts, right?

Either that, or they are blind, or just have no idea what they're talking abt (we post hundreds of inside pics on the website).  I kinda expect them to know a mallory 150 from a Sozo from a 715P, from 15ft, if they want to talk abt quality of caps?



As for the TW Rock it insulation, I see.

Hmm..that's odd. The trannies are pretty much the same as the other TWs?

The OT has dual tap 5K2 and 6K6.

Blue and Brown for 1 set,      grey and pink for the other tap.

If the guy mistakenly used blue and pink, for example, the tone will indeed be not optimal. And, if played for long and hard, I think the tubes will definitely redplate.


Thanks!

nik

What Wyatt said!

You must NOT operate it with 1 tube

The white powder thing indicates it's gone, most likely thru breakage (shipment?)

You need to replace (get a matched pair, good ones are at most USD 30 a pair, JJ etc), and rebias the amp with the new tubes.


Thanks!

nik

Austin

No, no one has that super bass yet ('67 spec), as it was custom

'67 or '68 Super Leads, yeah we have done a bunch of those.

We usually do the later 'spec.

But yeah, maybe I should now put on website that we actually DO HAVE '67 68 , etc spec.

I mean, I didnt see any need for that.  It's mostly a change of only a few values of components.

Fine fine....we DO have laydown 100W power trannies, in case someone's gonna say thats where the secret sauce is

Thanks!

Nik

Hi,

Yes, bias is definitely needed when you change power tubes.

If not sure, read the chupa manual.

The plexi100 doesnt have bias sockets, but the idea is same - read across the 1R resistor on power tubes.

You should also check your voltages, see if it's in line? www.ceriatone.com/voltage

As for the test, it shouldnt have much noise if set low. But if set high, you should simulate the shield (inside head cab) if testing the amp on the bench. Otherwise, you'd have noise.

This is after assuming your solder work are OK, and connections are correct.

Even if Oz can have 250-260V mains, at low volumes it shouldnt matter much, or for a short while.

Thanks!

nik

Thats cool indeed!

Hope you like it!

The spec is as follows:

Ceriatone 2203 transformer set.



Honestly, email me. The answer would probably involve custom chassis, to make it fit. depends on the transformer brand.



Thanks!

nik

Hi,

This is definitely not my build, which I think can be seen quite easily.

Or it could have been modded quite extensively (we dont use PEC pots, nor those small phillips or BC 'lytics, and definitely no Sozo in 2007).

But anyways -

From the primary "0" connection (black wire), is that some exposed wire in the amp? Or solder?

I'd take out the wire tie, and check that?

I;d also check solder connections, if this has been reworked. Leads must loop around at least 1/2 a loop for mech connection before soldered.

usually, when people mod the board, they insert and then solder. Since the board has backer like 5E3, best to see if the lead goes thru well and secure. So check for cold joints.

But if it's doing it even without standby engaged, the issue would not be on the board, I think.

As suggested, take out the 2ndary leads, and test again.

Not sure what you mean by water inside the amp? Can water collect like that, from humidity? I havent seen that happening as well.

Thanks!

Nik

Hi

I am abt to release the AFD.

(sorry to Jason, his is prototype and has been due for a while)

The thing is, it's with footswitching so had to make adjustments than the versions I made before.

It also has trimmers inside to make it somewhat adjustable on the Rks (does help so it's not one trick pony, well at least something to fiddle).

Thanks to Benny B Gay for all the info to make the amp possible.