There's been a lot of spam recently, sorry.

For a while, I made the registration as moderator-approved. I forgot, then came back to find out nearly 500 new members. Obviously, lots of bots.

There is something inherently wrong with the registration program's image verification - it is not random. I tried to register, and it's showing the same image over and over again.  So i guess thats how the bots get in.

I will look into it, perhaps install some other stuff.

Davor - can you look at this as well?

Thanks!

nik

Adrian

Thanks.

Will take a look at it!

Thanks!

nik

Hi,

  Not sure if all JCM800s have mustards in them, dont think all of em do, actually.

  If your board has ST202 Issue 1 (or was it ST1 Issue 202) stamped on it, then my board would be direct fit.

Thanks!

nik

Hi

Talked to Ross.

I think it was 2 68K resistors, not caps, that he replaced.

It was before he changed the valve, I think, so it could have been the 12AX7 all along?

Thanks!

nik

Hi,

Could just be some electrical appliances? Was something recently installed at your place?

Thanks!

nik

Hehe..

I was tempted to do that, 1 better!

The JTM46 will retain the circuit of the JTM45, ie it wont detract from the original.

Except for perhaps the big cathode cap on v1, maybe I'd make that smaller, ie a normal mod

What it will have are mods that people usually request. So we pre-empt the requests. These are (not finalized):

1) Ext and possibly dual bias

2) 1/2 power switch

3) PPIMV

4) Bright switch

5) Buffered SS loop

6) Carbon film resistors, CC only at plates and some other parts

Thats basically it. The mods, they can be defeated to make it stock JTM45 amp. So, it's indeed a +1!

Thanks!

nik

Damn thats nice!

Thanks!

Nik

Hi guys

Well, I think we thought long and hard abt kits.

If we do it, the board MUST be prewired, otherwise it gets very hard to pick em up one by one, and prone to mistakes. I feel that offering assembled board vs non, cost is abt same in terms of time as well as in terms of costs in resending missed parts.

2ndly, we wont be able to stock all the types of caps people want. Now we have Sozo, Mallory 150, 6PS, and 715P, and some odds and ends for the coupling caps. Definitely there'd be people who want Mallory PVCs, or other brands.

But, BARE BONES kits, we still do. This is the same exact thing as before, except you dont get capacitors, resistors, wire, and also screws (board screws are included). And of course, cheaper price.

i havent updated website because we will soon have a totally new one very soon. it's a total revamp/do.

Soon, once I have the online shopping cart, I guess we can offer the components on an a la carte basis. But NOT tied to any kit in particular. Therefore, the kit builder will be able to buy barebones, and then choose whatever he wants.

I think this is the easier way and a win win.  I get to sell it in an easier way, and builder will be able to buy with some choices for the components, right?

Thanks!

nik

Casey

Thats cool.

Indeed so, it'd be hard or impossible to beat NOS. back then, tubes were also meant for critical military stuff. Now, it's more generic, so it does open up to the fact manufacturers do not want them to last a life time It'd be bad for biz if so, dont you think? Heh..

As for the diode trick, i do suggest it. if you have a GZ34 to burn, all you have to do is to flick the standby switch a few times in succession (hot cycling it) to see sparks in the GZ34.

We tried with JJ, Sovtek, Chinese, and even an old Mullard. They all did it, without the protection diodes/cap.

If you google, esp in the hifi forums, you'd see the same issue.

So it's not just a fail safe, it's there to protect the GZ34 itself. And the mod is SPECIFIC to GZ34(5AR4). You dont actually need it for 5y3, but we put it there, anyways, just in case people decide to put GZ34 in the amp

And, building guitar amps, where standby switch is seen as a "premium", it's also a bit hard.  You dont actually need a standby switch with tube recto, as they're slow starting already.

In between sets, just set the vol to 0.

Thanks!

Nik

Also, as an update -

Only 33 JTM45s left for the sale

After this, no more, it'd be JTM46 only.

And this does mean changes to faceplates and chassis as well.

Thanks!

Nik

Casey

Thats cool mna

But Sovtek GZ34? Which one? The sovtek branded one?

It would be easy for me to source from a single place. But as is, the JJ GZ34/5AR4 is the best choice for me.

If you havent seen the latest layouts, pls do. The diodes/cap protect the GZ34, when used with the standby switch.

Thanks!

nik

An email to me would be answered almost instantaneously.   

So, which do you have, actually? JTM45, or the JTM45 Bluesbreaker?

Thanks!

Nik

Casey

This is a JTM b=Bluesbreaker, right, not a JTM45?

This was from April 2008? I think thats the record we have on 72sg,

If so, was the amp biased fine, accounting for the bias wiggle trem?

And, I guess, PI tube as well.  I think, I recall on occurrence of arc on 1 power tube, due to failed Phase inverter tube.

I guess it can be the OT. But not sure, since after that, the problem follows tube, not stay on socket.

if OT, ie 1 side failed, it'd stay on the side with the problem, I guess. Ie, when you swap the tubes around, you'd mess/damage  the other tube. But of course, if the HT fuse stops it in time, then no prob.

On the matter, I am not sure if you emailed me. Dont think you did? I would have advised, IF ANY SPARK in power tube, not to proceed with changing with other power tubes.

Failed or failing power tubes would usually be indicated by not so toneful sounds, and/or redplating.

If arcs, usually indicate some other problem.

It could still be the OT, I am not ruling that out. After all, how long can coconut shells last?

Thanks!

nik
 

Indeed, we're using Neutrik since the last 3-4 years on all the OTS amps.

They're surprisingly very economical, esp in the above 1000 pcs range! I thought that was strange, till I find out the factory's in China.

Stranger thing is, the non branded chinese ones, they're not as good as the neutriks. So I guess, it doesnt matter where it's made - if the effort is to make good ones, they'd become good

The earlier ones did have 240 (or was it 270) pinout, but we have changed that to be more in line with what other gadgets use.

I am looking at XLRs. Again, neutrik ones aren't so bad, price wise, in qty. When we started out making OTS back in 2007 or so, XLRs were very pricey, and not many choices back then.

Thanks!

Nik

Rob,

Thanks man, thats good to hear!

Indeed so, it's turret board const.  Cooler that way!

Thanks!

nik