I've found with my OTS that the voltages decay quite quickly BUT you do need to keep your hands out until you've been round all the big caps with a multimeter and checked. If any hold any votage make up a discharge device (2w resistor with croc clips either end INSULATED , not sure what value I used but i copied it off a website where I read about discharging caps, just google it)

So whats the point if the DC-30 has a half power switch?

Just been addd to the site. Anyone know what its like? Is it an AC15 clone?

Hi John, nice to see you in here, (we met at Matt's Bath week)

I got a G sharp to go in my loop and found that it sucked both tone and volume (to be expected really since the impedance is not right) so I'm in the process of building a Kleinulator into a rack chassis with footswitcheable bypass. I'll post the layout when its done, I'm just waiting for the rack chassis coming from RS.

Best regards

Hywel Harris

Yes


I'm not sure you will notice much difference but it has been mentioned in here that the amp sounds best if you are using all the OT windings ie 160hm



I'm not familiar with the BB, you have to check the layout, but I would not expect it to be a series connection.

The two output sockets on the back of the OTS are parallel wired so you connect the main speaker and then any speaker connected to the other will be in parallel. So add the impedances and divide by two then set the impedance selector accordingly.

If you are buying a cab with two speakers in they can be wired any which way as long as the resulting impedance matches one of the options on the rear of the OTS, but the 16 ohm setting isn preferred over the 8 over the 4ohm. So get two 8 ohm speakers, have them wired in series for a 16ohm cab.

Something other than the poweramp valves I think, them blowing was a symptom of something else. Sounds serious, better email Nik.

Seem to think that was right. Your screwdriver goes in the only way it can if its normal length and you read the clock position from the other side. ITs easy to check tho. USe a modded chopstick to twiddle it whilst its on. FINGERS OUT!!

The OTS speaker outputs are wired in parallel so you might be better going for a 16 ohm  and then another 16ohm for the extension cab, then run the amp at 8ohms. If you have two x8 then you'd have to run at 4ohms and whilst I've not tried it others have suggested that tone is better the more windings of the OT you use, ie higher is better.

BTW if you can get that speaker for 95 euro, do it quick Celestion have jacked their prices here in the UK and they are now approx 120euro.

No longer for sale. Keeping it for either a DC-30 or another OTS.

With my OTS build I took it to my tech to power it up and check all the voltages. I didn't want to risk blowing anything serious. Worth it for peace of mind.

Have fun. Much more rewarding that just buying one!

The dumble style of switching relies on the functioning of the relay, the switches (on the rear panel and the footswitch) only ever switch the 12v control voltage, not the signal routing. I wanted a quick and easy method of bypassing the whole rack if I needed to, just like in hardbypass fx pedals.

Master Volume?

Nice when it gets loud isn't it! Hope you've got understanding neighbours.

I've been having problems with a farty sound when driving the input hard with pedals, so in an attempt to get to the bottom of it I thought, why not, lets put the set of EL34's in that I had from Nik when i bought it. Needed quite a change on the bias pot to bring them up to about 28mV.

First think i noticed was they are bright right from the off, the 6L6's needed a burn in time to get them chimey. Different sound more mid I think, maybe a little less bass, but without A/B ing one after the other its difficult to tell (there was a gap of about two hours from the 6L6's to getting around to putting the EL34's in). Will give it a whirl at rehearsal tomorrow.

Finally found the farty problem I think, V1 had the original JJ in it (though it was taken out for a while to try an AT7, but then i put it back when that went nasty on me). Just put an EH ECC83STR in V1 and it now seems OK and the OD seems smoother aswell somehow.

I would have thought a 12ax7 would last longer than this, its not as though i've been giggin with it a lot, and only averaging one rehearsal a fortnight or so. Still put it down to experience. Farty OD sounds, try V1 first!!

I'm about to start building a Kleinulator kit from Nik into a rack chassis. I want to have a bypass switch hardwired, plus a footswitching (with LED) bypass so i also got an OTS relay board from Nik to do this ( I will use a 10v relay, can't seem to find any 9v ones in the UK)

Now the only problem is my logic thought processes are not as good as they could be so I have drawn a layout and I think it should work OK but I could do with some of you guys to look it over for me.

Much appreciated

Hywel Harris

EDIT: removed attachments as the switching layout was incorrect and I modified it considerably. see my other thread.http://ceriatoneforum.com/index.php?topic=840.0