If you have a boomy bass stay away from JJ's!

I suggest tungsol in v1 and v3 for a smoother more controlled bass. V2 (IMO) should generally have the warmest most harmonicly rich tube you can find. IF you can afford NOS for V2 mullard is a good choice. Similar to the tung sol with less chime.

JMO I dont think so. Some players are just shy and dont want to be picked out. I doubt he would just make it up for the sake of a thread. He is respecting the player's wishes not to have his name brought up.

FWIW there were a couple of players that owned REAL Dumbles and sold them after buying a ceriatone. Gregor Hilden for example. He then went on to sell the ceriatone for a fuchs which he sold for a Bludo or Glaswerk. Greg has gone through quite a few Dstyle amps. He sounds similar through all of them and IMO a $50,000 dumble doesnt sound $49000 more expensive than a ceriatone. Also you can't really mod a dumble without killing the value unless you bring it to HAD himself or a very trusted skilled builder such as Brandon of Bludotone. Which gives the ceriatone (or anyother D clone) the advantage of being fully tweekable without much consequence.

try changing the choke. I changed my to a blackface fender (forgot the model No.) and im running EL34's and dont have flabby low end. My amp is relativly stock except for 90k slope. V1 NFB disconected, V2a- no snubber, V2b-830pf and the choke and tubes i mentioned. No flub with a telecaster, if you use your fingers right you can get a nice pillowy bass without being loose sounding or tighten it up plenty.

If the choke doesnt solve it (which i think it will) you can always increase the powersupply filtering which will tighten up the bass and increase headroom a bit.

+1 with the 220K youre getting alot less mids and bass. youre probably losing about 6db gain overall. I went from 150k to 90k and couldnt be happier. more bloom more sensativity and less "plastic" sounding mids

We need a Reverb-lator. Similar to Andy Fuch's but with tube driven reverb instead of digital. It'll acomplish the job of  Dlator while also giving you footswitchable reverb

Nik has a few 50's 60's amps already but im definatly on board with some of the more rare amps ie. rickenbacker gretsch etc

Im running no snubber on V2a and 830pf on V2b gives nice character IMO

+1 im running those same tubes Winged C EL34 Just beware even though you might get a "matched" set the tubes will be off quite a bit (12mA for me)

The slope gave more low mids and bit more gain all around (the difference is small) The biggest difference IMO was it took away the "plastic" sounding midrange that I was getting when using alot of mids. It sounds more natural and smooth now.

I also lifted the NFB on V1 when I first got the amp, this adds some fatness as well.

The snubbers are a bit more complicated to explain. Basicly the first triode isnt rolling high end off any more, this is the half of the tube that should be compressing, V2b is what overdrives and has an 830pf value there. This tends to smooth the OD more IMO while still retaining a good amount of highend. Mismatched snubbers also seem to add more "chirp"

No klein or dlator, Just echo straight in the loop

Thanks! Yes definatly more low mids with the slope.

EL34vs6L6- To my ear EL34's sound pretty similar with a few exceptions. The EL34 as a whole seems more "hifi" it seems "faster" as well. The compression is more that you'd expect out of a compressor, quick attack, as opposed to the "sag" you get with 6l6's. The lows on the EL34's are much tighter. The EL34's seem brighter on the top end but suprising less harsh than 6L6's.

I dont think it's the cable. There were tests done where we simply switched the phase at the speaker (flip the leads) and got the results i explained above. But yes the higher pf cbles take some of the top end off as well and the Dlators add their own color. The test we did was purely one phase vs the other. The "correct" phase adds something of it's own which IMO is the bigger difference.

no one has mentioned this yet but the Phase reversal the the Dlator causes changed the feel of the amp quite a bit. This has been discussed more on amp garage, but basicly with the phase reversal you get a much more "singing" sustaining tone with more bloom.

Im not sure if Nik's Clator and the klein does the same thing but i know the real ones do.

HRM is always on if the OD is engaged. The tonestack is not usually bypassable. PAB only works on the clean channel's preamp but will affect the OD since both channels cascade.

yeah i think Nik is refering to neo speakers which can be lighter due to their power they can use smaller magnets.

the ultra champ is a great amp in a small package and it's easy to build. IMO the OTS amps are Nik's best sounding amps, though they are more complex. The OTS wont even need pedals (it takes them very well) but the OD on the amp is phenominal. all it needs is reverb/delay, i like a little compression too

After some tweeking

50 watt non-hrm EL34, slope resistor is now 90K, and the snubber on V2a is removed, V2b was upped to 830pf

speakers are weber P12Q clone (Jensen) and a custom weber w/ 55hz cone, 1 3/4'' voice coil, AlNiCo magnet, and the same dustcap as the G12-65 for smooth high end, 65 watts