Is the OD channel too bright? if so do the Pickmaster mods to v1 and V2 sockets.

I personally prefer the lower gain of the 5751 in v2 with the trimmer at approx 9:00. Even with a 12ax7 in v2 I wouldn't have the trimmer above about 11:00. Have you tried playing with the trimmer setting?

Turns out my board was built before the new mods. Nik is sending me the parts to upgrade it. Layout was correct.


This might cause a bit of a delay in finishing the project.

This will do the job for you,
http://www.thegigrig.com/acatalog/TheGigRig_Remote_Loopy-2.html

its new out and not widely available yet, but the upside is that the remote switching keeps signal path to a minimum. Downside it its another two boxes to find space for. Thats why I wanted the K and all the switching gubbins in the same rack chassis. See my thread on building this.

http://ceriatoneforum.com/index.php?topic=840.0

Not sure to be honest. I'm just using the kit parts bought from Nik about a month ago. I know the board is different from the layout Nik sent me which shows some type of diode!

So if it blows up it might not be my fault !

What is it? anyone know?

What is the S&M Special I wonder?

Its certainly not the SE, I can see two poweramp valves. Shame the link to the page isn't working yet.

I'm intrigued

I was hoping to get more done today but the two colour LED I was intending to use for the bypass/fx on LED blew whilst testing it, so that prevented me from completing the 9v side of the relay. Should have bought a few spares.

Will add more pics if I get chance to any more on it during the week. Also need to clarify with Nik how to bias the FET.

Another lesson learnt. Things take at least twice as long as you bargained on. this will probably take as long start to finish as my OTS build did.

I have a layout drawing for the Klein and one for the bypass switching, when I've finished it and it all works (if !) I'll combine the two drawings into a full layout.

Power socket wiring now completed. 9volt wiring partly completed, sufficient to power it up and check the tranny, regulator, LED, switch etc. The green LED is on just not very bright, deliberately, I don't want it looking like the bridge of the Enterprise.

Face plate and outside of case was sprayed matt black

Star ground fixed but not all connections made.

Jack sockets were a pain. there was very little room to manoeuvre under the lip so I tack soldered the solid earth connector then removed the sockets to complete all the other wiring. I also took the relay board out and colour coded the connections for later reference.

Bypass switch was a very tight fit, but I wanted a very robust one. This is the one you'll hit if something goes wrong mid song!!

Rear fascia is, from left to right in the photo, Input, send, return, output (reversed from Niks layout), bypass switch, footswitch jack, two 9v out sockets, 3 mains power out sockets, mains in socket.

Power sockets now fitted, circuit boards mounted on insulating risers. Face plate re-attached. Holed drilled to for securing tranny. I couldn't use a metal clamp over the top of the tranny, it would have added to the height so resorted to using ties.

The green blocks are padding to keep the conductors from getting anywhere near the case. The regulator is mounted to the side wall with one self tapping screw into the heatsink.

I made a start yesterday, mostly metalworking. Not my strong point. I roughed out on paper what I wanted and where it was to go but the first job was to make sure it would all fit. The space inside was large enough, it was the area on the front and rear fascias that as most critical especially as I wanted a power distribution section to keep the number of power leads trailing to a socket to a minimum.

As it turned out the biggest problem was the height inside the case. The pot solder tags project too high and would touch the lid if I didn't turn them and the jack sockets that Nik supplied have great long solder nibs which were also a problem. I swapped them for a different sort, but in retrospect I should have drilled the holes slightly off the centre line.

The 9v transformer I cannibalised from a linear regulated supply house in a plastic case, which was inordinately difficult to get apart, they glue them together it seems, had to resort to hack saw to get at the innerds. I also had to separate the regulator from the tranny otherwise the  contacts would have been above the level of the lid. As it was I had to cut a hole in the lid for the transformer but there's no risk of contacts touching now.

Front face plate from left to right. Send, Bright switch, return, bright switch, recovery, Bypass LED, 9v fuse, 9v power LED, 9v power switch, Mains fuse, mains power.

Good luck with the Nova, though I think the issue, rather than one of input level,  is more likely to be the impedance mismatch. I'm not technically minded enough to understand the issues but I believe what the Klein does is remove impedance as an issue for anything in its' loop.

I've got the TC G# and I'm really hoping it will do the business when in the Klein loop.

Try swapping the offending tube, it might be becoming microphonic. If you tap the glass lightly with a pencil do you get a sound thro the speaker? If yes then I'd say replace the tube.

How do I measure the bias voltage? All I know is that the FET has 3 pins and a flat on the body. Do I measure pin to ground or pin to pin? I know sod all about the electronics of these things I'm afraid so I'd be very grateful if you could be very specific.

Thanks

Hywel Harris

Was that using the Kleinulator to run the Quadraverb John? or just on its own in the loop.

I'm doing that at the moment, building it into a rack chassis. According to Nik I need to adjust the trimmer to bias the FET. How do you do that? Simple instructions appreciated

He gave figures of 20-22Vdc though I think he must mean mV surely?

TIA

Hywel Harris