Hey there
glad you found your sound!
Which amp out of all the other builds would be your next favorite after the OTS?
And why?
Just curious, my wife is worried for me as well!

Todd

There is a couple FM soundclips at the Ceriatone website!

Todd

Thank you
I just used MC iron on my 2550 build and it turned out very well!
Which OT did you end up using with your amp?


Todd

Do all of your tubes heater filaments light up?
Could be fuses, do you know how to check the fuses?
Do you use a D-lator? I felt pretty stupid one day when nothing was working on my amp and it turned out to be the power cable had disconnected from the K-lator.


There is actually quite a few reasons this could happen , but if you arent technically experienced I would suggest bringing it to a tech ( after checking the easy stuff )

Todd

Military spec resistors
Tripped me out too, I was looking for color codes and at first thought I was short parts!

Hey Greg
 I want to say its a #10 but am not 100% sure
Can you pull one out of your amp and bring to hardware store?

BTW man I built the 2550 with the plan to change the faceplate later.
I noticed after build was completed how much of a PITA it will be to change them out?
I still will if you have put any effort into them though, but if not I will just deal with the gold. Thank you either way

Todd

Unless there is someone here I do not know of who has all the models and can give you detailed comparison, you will have to decide on the model yourself!
I have not heard of one person regretting getting any specific model.
Listen to the soundclips and decide which flavor suits you best.

I liked every soundclip I heard so I just kinda picked one ( OTS FM50 ) and have no regrets.

Another thing you can do to get suggestions is state which Artist you would like your amp to sound like.
One guy said he wanted to get John Mayers tone to Nik.
He ended up getting an OTS with JM mod.
Food for thought

Todd

OTS FM50 was my firstborn
Before that I had built a BYOC effects pedal.
The amp was easier for me because there is room to work.
I have been working on electrical ( low voltage and high voltage ) for past 15 yrs.
But unless you are redesigning the amp you wont be calculating formulas or anything. I pretty much did the paint by numbers thing trying to learn as much as possible along the way.
Worked on first power up, I was confident it would because I triple check every connection.

It is addicting so beware. Just finished my second build and I am almost sad about it because it went so fast! 3 weekdays after working 10 hr days at my day job.
I guess I'll just have to order another kit

It adds a couple steps but one suggestion I got is to pre tin all stranded wiring before making the connection. It looks a lot cleaner and its easier to work with because it wont fray when you bend it around connection.

I am colorblind so I do not follow color coding, I noticed that some wire colors on layout do not match the actual wiring that boards come with so make sure you confirm each connection from point to point.

Once you get the kit and have started on it, if you have any questions or problems ask here and you will get help. If possible take pics and post them as well.

Good Luck

Todd

So you want the clean channel tone stack on your HRM to be more responsive, but the OD is just where you want it?
If in clean mode you turn your bass to 10 are you still not getting enough bass?
Or is it that when you go from 1 to 10 you dont hear much change?
Those questions apply to the mid and treble also!

Like I said before I am not the person to answer your question, so hopefully someone with a HRM that has done some mods will chime in from here.
Just trying to help you get all the specifics out for someone to help you!

Todd

Hey Jestaudio
I went through your previous posts and could not tell which amp you ended up building? HRM ? or not?
Did you end up using the Mojo trannies?
Using C-lator?
You say that you want more bass mid and treble, most usually only have problem with one of the three which makes me wonder if the amp is working properly to begin with.
Have you tried any D-style amps other than yours to compare?
I may not be the right person to answer your question but it will help to throw out a little more info about your amp!

Todd

Google EIA capacitor codes
Here is a good suggestion I learned from someone else and it really worked for me.

Print your layout on a poster size sheet, take your meter and meter every resistor one at a time and with scotch tape stick the appropriate components onto the layout until all parts on layout. Use the EIA coding system for your cap values.
After this is done you will not have to question whether you are using the correct component.

Also the tube amp book from Dave Hunter is very useful for some of the terminology.
And then Soundperf just dug this up.
http://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9023


Hope that helps.

Todd

If you get the PT from somewhere other than Nik or Mercury magnetics you will have to also add another small 6 volt trannie for the relay switching I believe!
I was going to get them somewhere else until I found this out!
Maybe Bluesfendermanblues can tell you exactly what you will need for this!
Just throwin that out before its too late!

I did get my trannies from Magnetic components for my 2550 build with no problems other than I am colorblind and hooked the primaries wrong the first time! A learning experience!

Todd

Well in the Dumble community I might get burned at the stake for saying this, but I started with just 1 WGS ET-65 and it was a little Dark for my taste. I since got 2x12 cab and added a WGS Vet30 to the Et-65 and it sounds great IMO.
A majority of D-style players will say the V30's sound horrible with these amps, I do not agree!

Never tried a 15" but have heard one guy using a Jensen 15" and he said he's happy with sound.

The most recommended speaker will be the Celestion G12-65. The WGS ET-65 is a clone of that which cost's 1/3 of the price.

Then there is the expensive stuff ( Alnico's , EV12L )

Good day!

Todd

Congrats
It really is a nice amp!
Been playing mine less than a week and already love it!
Try the settings Tone control posted on the next thread down.

Todd

+1

Get rid of Ground switch

I did all my wiring inside chassis, alot of people choose to do it outside of chassis as well. Compared to a PCB kit there is adequate room between components, just try not to touch the other wires with iron and burn 'em ( I've done that a few times too many). There is a good vid on doing tone stack outside of chassis on the soundgarage files ( The guy who does the vid is pretty funny too )

As far as noise issues, I try to at all times maintain atleast 1/4'' separation between wiring. I learned this while being a Fire alarm technician, always have to keep the low voltage separate from the high votage. There are some places where this is not possible.
the most sensitive runs will be in coax anyways!

While you have the ground switch off is a good time to do the wiring for the bias test points in that little area ( 1 watt resistors, Bias pot, output tube wiring ). It gets pretty tight there.

Anyways other than getting rid of that death cap switch ( ground switch ) keep chuggin!

Keep the pics coming, they will be the best way for the experienced guys to help out!

Todd