+1 i cant see how it would cause a problem. the entire chassis is aluminum and is grounded to sheild the "guts" of the amp. Adding the small peice on the cab is just like putting a lid on it to keep more unwanted noise out.

The only way it could cause a problem is if one of your components was touching the sheilding and sending a signal to ground that shouldnt go there.


If that happens just cover the sheilding with electrical tape except for the aluminum that makes contact with the chassis. I do this on my guitars that i sheild

a 100 watt amp is 3 db louder than a 50 watt amp. theres not much of a difference. its all about headroom and bass response.

hiwatts all are loud and have alot of headroom

how about a "Steel String Singer" type d style amp?

Nik could call it "Super String Singer" or "Stevie's Super Singer" (stevie ray vaughn used this type of amp)

a guy on ebay is selling grillcloth for bluesbreakers claiming that the speakers and tubes dont matter "you cant get that vintage tone without this grillcloth" it cost $500 for one amp's grill cloth

Frank and Dweezil Zappa are my favorites right now

i'd get the 100 watt with half power switch. i also really like the Overtone Special. non-HRM, not S&M

is there an easy cap change that will give me more of a lower frequency mid boost? (not less boost)

also is there a way to wire the mid boost to a foot switch?

thanks JD

try the kleinulator. it does exactly what you need and gives you a fatter tone, plus you dont need to drill into your amp

what are you asking for a JAN 5751?

im interested in buying one when youre done

what do you think you'll sell them for?

i've heard mullard reissues sound great in the OTS so real vintage one coundnt sound worse.

i dont have any suggestions on powertubes, still searching for that magic set.
anyway i had amazing results on the clean channel with an old Ei 12AX7
and the JJ ECC803s tubes are supposed to be great in the PI as long as you get balanced triodes it has long plate structure. This over sized plate structure improves details in the bass and low mid-range responses.

Theres many threads on this but just to give you an idea what they are.
theres a 50(actually about 43 not that it makes a difference) watt model and 100 watt.

they use 6L6's stock but can be changed to EL34's or 5881's

The S&M is a unmodded OTS
The Overtone uses some small mods(sounds a bit warmer and smoother)
both are non-HRM


the HRM uses trimpots inside the amp so you can tweak the OD EQ
the non-HRM does not have this.

There are so many threads on this that i suggest you do a forum search

no the PAB bypasses the tonestack on the clean channel for a boost on either channel. looking at most amps im guessing the 250K is treble, 1Meg is bass, and 20K is midrange.

Three of the trimpots are used for treble middle and bass on the OD channel. there should be three other trimpots like on the non-HRM one is the OD trimpot, the other is the phase inverter bias and the last is the FET(i believe its not on the HRM)

Yes sorry for the typo.

EV's have a big bottom end and are smooth and loud, from what i understand. If someone handed me a pair of EV's for my Hiwatt i would definatly take them. You just need to be careful with the highend(theres alot!  ) i play my Hiwatt with the mids full, the treble almost at 0, and the bass at 1-2 o clock and presence below 12 o clock