With my dual amp settup I like having both amps on all the time. I'll have the OTS as my main amp and a clean fender or something similar to have both the clean sounds. When I use the OTS's overdrive the fender stays clean and gives a really nice depth and character to the tone.

Always liked the looks of the blue glow. From what ive seen 99% of 6L6's have or develop that blue glow. Ive read that it's from air leaking into the vacume tube, but I dont think thats the case since the tube wouldnt be working if the vacume gets compromised at all by any type of leak.

I think "he" is Nik and the "mod" is probably the bypass or PAB mod that is on the OTS standard.

If it is infact a tonestackbypass type mod all you need to do is disconnect the mid pot/resistor this effectively gives you infinity resistance to ground from the mid pot/resistor giving a midrange/gain boost.

So you added snubbing caps to the OD. Try experimenting a little more. First i'd suggest you swap the composition of the caps, use ceramic in that spot, they generally sound better. Ive heard some polyester and polystyrine caps can make the fizz worse. The polystyrine caps are supposed to be especially efficient at letting the highs through, which is why builders usually use them for treble caps in the tonestack for a more "hifi" clean tone and high end.

Also try mismatching the snubbers. I have no snubber on V2a (closer to V1) and 800pf on V2b (closer to the PI) Ive found this gives a much smoother tone with less buzzyness/fizz, and the highs seems slightly more compressed as opposed to dark/muffled. It also gives a bit more "chirp" character IMO.

30-34 seems low to me. I'd suggest going up to at least 38-42mA. JJ's are overbuilt to withstand more current as well, which IMO causes more sterile tone at colder settings.

it's the 3rd preamp tube. On this amp the first (V1) is the clean tube, V2 is the overdrive tube, V3 (closest to power tubes) is the Phase inverter.
This should help you when you experiment with different tubes so you know what does what. The Phase Inverter does exactly what the name implys, it inverts (reverses) the phase. These tubes are more commonly found in multi channel amps. Although it uses a preamp tube the PI is technicly part of the power section and is often overlooked when talking about "power tube overdrive." Due to the higher voltage of the PI it's distortion is usually less than pleasant. The Bluesmaster uses a lower voltage in the PI which is said to give "better" Power tube overdrive.

Tonally the PI should be "invisible" but thats almost never the case as it does color the tone and change some tonal characteristics. I was thinking of implimenting a Hiwatt PI which is basically a copy of a hifi amps PI. This is what largly contributes to the Hiwatt amps clean headroom and organic tone, you can pretty much dime the master volume and keep the power section clean if you wanted. With dumble amps a majority of the tone and character comes from the preamp. So it's my reasoning to treat the power section less like a guitar amplifier and more of a hifi amplifier to keep the power section from sacrificing headroom.

+1 This is a preamp distortion amp not a 72' Marshall JMP where you need to overdrive the PI and power section to get drive.

Also just to be clear the Klein doesnt "power soak" that would involve being between the speakers and transformer. The klein can do the same as any other pedal with a "level" control in that it "decides" how much signal goes into the PI to be amplified. IIRC that is basically how the master volume works on these amps. By cutting singal to the PI you can reduce/eliminate Phase Inverter overdrive which sounds like crap (to me) which results in a smoother fatter tone. The C lator and K lator also color the sound on their own which is usually descrubed as a pleasant change.

Actually im pretty sure the "half power switch" does remove the two outer tubes but the amp creates a dummy load so the amp "thinks" it's still using all the power tubes and the impedence is unaffected. At least thats how Nik wired the earlier "half power" switch.

A pentode/triode works as well but I think this is more intended for 50 watt (two power tube) amps. Triode/Pentode is going to have a mushier sound in triode where removing the two outer tubes (on 4 tube amp) should leave the tone relatively unchanged.

Either way, no the impedance does not need to be changed unless you manually remove the two outer tubes.

Actually the price of a new dumble is about $5K and it'll cost you a tube amp. HAD no longer builds amps from scratch. He will still mod tube amps to the dumble circuit though you just need to supply the amp.

who says you cant use EL34s? I used SED and Shugaung in my 50 watt. 42mA was my prefered setting.

For all the nay sayers im currently running KT88's at 50mA now without any mods. Been 6 months nothing has blown up..

Firstly I dont think thats the midboost. Rather the preamp boost (PAB) which bypasses the tone controls. Unless you got a custom switch with the actual mid boost (deep) on it.

Anyway make sure the switches on the back are in the correct position. IIRC some of them were wired backwards, more notably the earlier amps, wich may pertain to yours. Not a big deal the switches just work opposite as they are labeled. If thats not it, your problem points to something in the pedal not working.

^^^^ I second that advice.

It will take about 10 hours for the speaker to fully break in. IMO speakers "break in" and sound better over their entire life. But the largest difference is usually within the first 15minutes of playing where the cone loosens up quite a bit and takes away a nasty compression and weak bass that you will probably have for the first 20 minutes or so depending on how loud you play. You want a punchy tone to really thrust that cone out and loosen it up quicker.

I want one

I use two cabs, one 2x12 built by weber loaded w/ weber 12A125 (Jense P12Q clone) and a custom weber alnico 1 3/4'' voice coil, 55hz cone, large harp dustcap, basicly an Alnico version of the Celestion G12-65 with a deeper bass.

The other cabinet is a "leslie" rotating speaker cab loaded with a weber 10'' Michigan which is an Alnico version of what a 10'' JBL speaker would be.


As to the output tubes, it's pretty much subjective but in my opinion more output tubes(higher wattage) sounds better because of the added bass response and clean headroom. With the 100 watt (4 output tubes) you could always get a "half power" switch which will basicly deactivate the outer tubes and reduce the wattage.

From what I understand the slope resistor sees very little voltage. The highest voltage goes through the filter caps into the power tubes which see about 465V, preamps see around 200V, PI about 300. The tone stack sees very little voltage IIRC