Aluminum tape from a hardware store is really good stuff! Sticks to everything! Just make sure its in good contact with the chassis when mounted in the cab. Cheers!

Yeah, I'm fixin' to do that mod too. Look at the HRM's on Nik's site. The layouts show the wiring and the pot can go right in the half power switch hole, if you're dealing with the 50 watt. A 100K pot and some shielded wire. Nik told me I wouldn't need the resistor on my non-HRM. Have fun!

The speaker you use can have a big effect on your clean tone. I am using a Jensen C12K out of a '65 Twin RI. I'm very happy with the cleans as the speaker has a very full bottom end and nice crisp highs. The mids are a bit shelved.  I have the speaker in an open back cab and that may have an effect also.
     I am, however, going to change some caps and resistors to get back to the specs of #124 because I bought the amp to get as close to that "D" tone as possible. When I got around to ordering my kit, the main board had been altered significantly and I struggle to get real close. I've already added a "deep" switch, put a 15pF cap on the MV and am ready to make the changes on the main board mentioned in an earlier post on this thread. After all... we bought this amp to get as "real Dumble" as we can...right? Once I change some stuff on the board, I may have to change speakers.

For clarity's sake, the Steel String Singer was deigned for pedal steel guitar. 150 watts that wouldn't distort with pre and master max'd out. Stevie's was slightly modified from the original SSS design. Just a note of trivia from years of research. Bill

Deep mod is done and it really adds dimension to the tone! Will post pics soon.

First, undo the ground switch if you are in an area with well grounded, 3 wire outlets. Next, have your tech trace the signal from input to output. Try different preamp tubes. There may be a bad solder or two. Also, Nik at ceriatone is very good about answering questions. It's probably something simple, just need to use the process of elimination. Take it slow and thorough. It's worth the wait.

I have the standard version from July '08. I too run Sovtek 5881's and love everything about this amp. I did, however, remove the FET input and board and installed an actual "deep" switch. This along with the bright and mid boost give me all the various tones I could ask for. The amp takes some time to get to know and it really does get better sounding as time goes by. I'm driving a Jensen C12K from a '65 Twin reissue. I get awesome, tight lows and sparkly highs in clean mode. Nice grit, crunch, and singing mids and highs for leads and rhythm. I also put a 15pf bright cap on the master.  I truly believe that I will never need another amp!
Cheers!    Bill

Best holiday wishes from the State of Washington, USA.
 May you all be blessed in the coming year!
  And cheers to Nik and the team at Ceriatone...besides they are ultimately responsible for us all being here, right?
   May your tuning be stable, your tubes be warm, and your tone be inspired.
     Bill

The "Larry tone" was my thread and I have an OTS from July '08.
    I run 5881's at 33ma, 7025 preamps and a JJ 12AX7 PI. I did, however add a "deep" switch that was taken directly from a schematic of the original #124.
    I removed the FET input and board, put in a mini switch and wired it per the  schematic. This gives my cleans a much richer and literally "deeper, not bassier" tone. Think dimensional, not, tonal. It really sounds deeper, like the tubes are resonating...very glassy, not boomy.
    I also added a 15uf cap on the master volume per the original #124.
    As for Larry's stuff, he had Mr. D*%ble put an FET circuit in his Sho-Bud volume pedal to get those awesome highs at bigger volumes. His amps tended to lose some definition in the highs and get bassy at loud volumes.
   By the way, Larry owns #'s 118 and 147. Both 80's models, non HRM.
     Cheers... Bill

Oh, yeah! I'm running Sovtek 5881's at 33ma. They sound great and the attack is a bit smoother than the 6L6s.  NOS 5881s ought to sound even better! Just get the bias right and your set. Me thinks you'll like!

For some reason, My new lap top didn't like that document. But, my older pc opened it just fine. That is the way I wired up my deep switch. Sounds absolutely amazing! I can now hear my "tubes resonating", those Carlton clean tones are right on the money now! Thanks for the input.   Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all!    Bill

IC, I couldn't open the file...there was an error on the document. Could you repost?

Well, it's done. I finished the "deep" mod to my OTS. What I did was remove the FET board and input jack and installed a mini switch in it's place. Before I installed it, I wired it up per the deep switch on the HRM model. Then put it in place, soldered in the three resistor tails and voila! Now I have Bright, Deep, and Mid-boost! I took the FET out because I never used it anyway. I'll post my drawing for the mod soon. Easy stuff... I recommend doing it...if you don't need the FET input that is.  Merry Christmas and happy holidays!!!    Bill

Steve, I'm going to do one mod to this, otherwise, perfect amp. I'm removing the FET and putting in a deep switch. Looks like a fairly simple mod. Looks like I'll be a bit closer to Larry tone. Look at the layout for the HRM on the Ceriatone site and look at how the switching is wired. To add the "deep" all I have to do is follow the layout to wire the switch and put it in the FET hole. I never use that input anyway. And yes, I'm in love with the amp! Bill

I run a digitech multi-chorus in front and an ART mx-1 in the loop for reverb and delay. I've also, in the past run a Boss DS-1, a TS7 tubescreamer, and a digitech Screamin' blues in front of the amp with great results, but the OD on this amp is so good that it's all I use now.