Hi Steven,

Great pic, looks very good.
Quite a big step, going from Line6 to Ceriatone.
Hope you like it as much as the most of us.

Dave

The Overtone Special is very responsive to the guitar you plug in.

With my old Fender Eric Johnson, it was way to bright on the OD
so I installed other snubbercabs, 330pF, on V2.
I also changed the Mid capacitor from 0,01 to 0,05uF.
And all other mods from ChrisL & co.

Now that I've sold all my guitars to buy a Tyler, I find that not all
these mods are suited for this guitar.
Due to the Mid-Boost circuit (always active) this guitar is a little more
of everything, more bass, mids & treble (buffer function at 0 Boost).
So I've gone back to 270pF snubbers and changed the Mid cap back
to 0,01uF.
Also as the output is a bit higher, so I turned the OD-trimmer back
to 09:15.

Played an hour after the changes and I think this suits the guitar
much better.

I don't understand why the Kleinulator was changed so much.
The public version I build had Send, Mix & Return with a Series/Parallel switch.
It works flawlessly except noise/buzz when an adapter is connected, but with battery no issues.
(My adapters are really not suitable, should buy a good stabilized one...)

As for now I use my Intellifex without Kleinulator, because there is a great analog Dry-path in
the Intellifex mixer.
I just build it so if I get a new/other FX unit I can use it directly.

OK back on topic...

When you set the Master around  2 you get -10dB like setting in the effectsloop.
The Master around 5 you get +4dB like setting (Rack/Line level).
I have build the old Kleinulator and it was much more intinuitive than the recent version.
My Kleinulator has Send, Mix and Return which speak for themselves.

The new ones have Send, Return and Recovery, I think that Return & Recovery are the same
thing so why 2 controls?
If it is set up like I think it is, then try this:
Max the Send and Return knobs, set Recovery to 0.
Adjust the Master on the OT so that the G-Sharp isn't overloading.
Set the output of the G-sharp to -10dB and max the output knob.
Then use Recovery for overal Volume.

I have switched between Tubes and modelling myself a few times.
But I always come back to tubes.
With A/D D/A converters you'll alway have a little delay (like 2 - 3 ms)
not much your ears won't hear it, but your brain is harder to deceive.

Before the FX-loop.
It functions like a Send level pot.
When I use my Intellifex, the master is on 5.

I use my FX to change between Rythm & Lead volumes, I only use the boost on the OD.
So I have Clean (no Boost), Crunch (OD no Boost) & Lead (OD with Boost)
When I use FX, than my volume is raised by +4,5dB to cut through the bandmix.

My settings are:
Input = 6
Bright = on
Deep = off
R/J = Rock
Treble = 4 (4,5)
Mid = 5
Bass = 5 (4,5)
OD = 4
Ratio = 3
Presence = 5

And.....

Do you like it as much as we do?

Hello Steven,

Finally! Your weeks of waiting are over.
Now you can enjoy the Overtone on your new speakercabinet.
Keep us posted!

I tested with the amp open and very carefully turned the pot until
I found a sweet spot, the amp suddenly changed tone and became
really fat.
So I left the pot where I felt the tone was the best, around 12 o'clock.

Caution if you don't know voltages, don't use this method!

  You will be when I tell you my playing doesn't match my gear... 

OK, here you go...

I have it about 12 o clock.
Very nice and ballsy tone with my strat and unreal pleasure with my new Les Paul.
 

If its a loud high pitched oscilation than swap the two primary OT wires.
Happened to me, and after the swap the amp worked fine.

Look at recent fotos to see were the blue and brown wire is soldered to which tube.
Also read that sometimes the wire colours are wrong, measure the resistance between blue and brown and blue or brown and red.
Blue-Brown should read twice as much as Blue-Red or Brown-Red.
Red should be Centre Tap.

Good luck.

  Wow, that looks stunning!