Tone is in the fingers. HaHa 
Just F'ing with you

I saw RF a few months back and he was using a Zen drive for his lead tones with his Dumble. I posted pics of his pedalboard from that show down in the Chit Chat section. After that show I tried his Amp settings which are in pic as well on my FM50 and got very close.

Todd

I do everything inside the chassis. One tool that makes life sooooo much easier is a small pair of needle nose with 45 degree bend. Either way you will find yourself in odd positions to get some of the wires crimped and soldered. Also be careful not to burn other wires with soldering iron shaft while getting in the tight spots.

Todd

You should probably contact Nik to see what has changed then.
He posted this chart recently so i dont know if he has any newer info or not.

Todd

Heres link to voltage chart.xls

http://www.ceriatone.com/voltage/

Hope this helps

Todd

The problem with the toggle right now is that it is an open circuit. A short at that toggle and the problem would be the opposite, always on whenever the power supply is plugged in and wont turn off.
If I had it on my bench I would replace the toggle ( $3 part and would take 5 min. ), but if your not experienced in doing so it can be a PITA because it is rather small and the contacts are very close to one another. If you want to send it back I will fix that and make sure everything checks out before wrapping it 20 times in bubble wrap:) and send it back.
If you know a good tech it should be an easy repair as well and hopefully cheap. Let me know what price you are quoted for the repair and I will discount that and then some from it.
Once again Sorry about the troubles I have no intention of selling faulty equipment.

Todd

Damn Luggage monkeys

Todd with 2 d's

Hey Daniel

Here is link to the manual for your OTS: http://www.ceriatone.com/Manuals/ceriatone%20ots%2050w%20100w%20manual.pdf

Adustment of OD trim is covered as well as many other things you should know about your new amp

And here is the manual for the K-lator you should be receiving today!

http://www.ceriatone.com/Manuals/ceriatone%20klein-ulator%20manual%20072508.pdf

The first thing I would do after plugging in and powering this amp up since it is used is check bias, which if you dont know how is covered in manual as well.

Todd

If you have any questions let us know

Hey Daniel

To answer your question currently have a boss GT-10 that is setup for only delay and reverb and is in the loop of my C-lator. It has a looper on it which I use quite often as well. I do have a envelope filter, a zendrive and low and behold a boss metal zone ( haha ) all of which I barely use. I can cop most the tones I desire with just the amp with rev and delay. But I also have an ABY now and like to play one/either of my OTS's along with my 2550 ala Joe bonamassa/Eric Johnson tone. With this setup i can go from crystal cleans( OTS ) to Marshall roar ( 2550 ) and everything in between.

Before I got my OTS FM50 I had a Peavey JSX which was a decent amp but not in same realm ( Boutique ). When I got the OTS there was a learning curve for me, because it just plays different. Hard to explain but you will probably see what I mean.

Anyways, i suggest you do some bonding with the amp alone before worrying about what pedals to use. I dont know how much different #124 ( the amp you have )clone is from #102 or HRM MK2 w/el-34s ( my OTS's ) but the cleans should be very nice platform for pedals if needed. I personally enjoy the OD I get out of my amps than any pedal I have ever tried.

Also what tubes are currently in your amp?

Todd

http://ceriatoneforum.com/index.php?topic=486.0

This old thread is kinda along the lines of your questioning. I do recall someone on a youtube vid nailing the tone of that JM song with their HRM I believe. Its been a while so dont remember who that was.

EDIT : I actually posted a link to that at the end of thread and its at around 6min in, also its a bluesmaster


Todd

If you use a buffered effects unit such as the C-lator with either the 50 or 100 watters you can attenuate the volume down to bedroom level without affecting tone too much so there is really no need for a lower wattage.

One thing about a smaller wattage version would be the weight of the amp would be much easier to haul around although with smaller trannies

Todd

I understand where you are coming from
I am pretty lucky to have found a good guy on this forum that does custom cabs and will pretty much beat any one else prices and quality.
Unfortunately you are across the pond and the shipping would kill you or I would send you his way.
Does Nik even do the cabs in house?

Todd

Why dont you get the amp chassis only then get cab locally. Then you can customize it however you like. There are many cabinet builders that are reasonably priced and need work!
 

The amps Nik sells are affordable therefore not Boutique


Todd

What did it end up being?

I suggest you contact Nik to ask what components were changed in the revision so that atleast if you follow the new layout you will know which components are substituted.
Another suggestion would be to print a giant size layout at kinkos and then tape with scotch tape each component in its respective place. It helps in doing the parts count as well as once you start soldering you wont have to stop and meter and or read color code each step! The revision changes will most likely become apparent as well!

Let us know if you have any more questions

Todd