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Author Topic: Just Got My OTS FM50  (Read 15843 times)
Brian Paul
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« on: January 07, 2011, 09:38:24 PM »

WOO!!!HOO!! Just got my OTS FM50!!! This thing is friggin' awesome!! I am playing through a 2x12 cab with late sixties EV SRO's I have the same setup in another cab for my 2550.

 Now! Hook 'em up in stereo and VAVOOM!!

I will post some sound clips or a YouTube vid with this setup. I can't wait to get out and gig with this.
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leodiditright
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« Reply #1 on: January 08, 2011, 05:14:22 AM »

That's the one I'm interested. Please post clips, even better with a strat or tele. Thanks
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leodiditright
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« Reply #2 on: January 09, 2011, 05:46:25 AM »

Please show some interest guys, I mean he's probably the only folk in here who owns that amp, an amp that is supposed to be a clone of one of the best amp in history, and nobody give a damn' shit! It's not only that this post is not getting replies but it's not even read  Huh?
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johanare
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« Reply #3 on: January 09, 2011, 07:48:26 AM »

I'm having a #102 built and it will be very close to the FM50 (FM100 really).
Of course I want to hear all about it.
Does it include the C-lator?
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erwin_ve
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« Reply #4 on: January 09, 2011, 02:23:27 PM »

I have my amp modded to #102 specs for 1,5 year. It's useless without a dumblelator IMO. With dumblelator it's my favourite circuit.
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ampkits
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« Reply #5 on: January 09, 2011, 04:05:42 PM »

Brian

Happy New Year!

Thats cool man!

As for the FM50, I quite like it. Some find it a bit bright, I guess.

I had a local guy who bought it, and we tweaked it a bit to his liking. Pretty much simple stuff that's done all the time:

a) lower bright cap on the MV
b) 3 way bright cap on the bright switch (68, none, 120pf)

c) 100K slope, 0.001uf treble (instead of 0.0022uf)

d) Switch for the LNFB (local neg feedback loop)

e) Lower bright caps for the Clator as well

f) i also changed the 22m resistors on the PAB relay to 10m.

I guess, my ears are a bit gone, since I dont find the amp that bright?

But then again, I realize that there are people who like it darker (kinda dark for my usual preference), and smoother.

Well, just sayin the mods, if you need it to be less bright, are easy to do.

The switch for LNFB is also always a nice feature to have, IMHO.

The Clator would be nice to have, for sure, but it's not a requirement.

This amp reminds me of the S%M, but less bright.  Its got bite for sure, on the OD.

Thanks!

nik
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erwin_ve
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« Reply #6 on: January 09, 2011, 04:38:32 PM »

C'mon Nik, the original design with the 68pF on the master is over the top bright without a dumblelator.
Removing or lowering the master bright cap is more S&M like I agree.
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Brian Paul
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« Reply #7 on: January 09, 2011, 05:06:39 PM »

Nik,

This amp is great. I don't find it all that bright, but then again I play humbuckers. It has a very nice attack and grind when playing on the bridge pickup. and a great howel on the neck pickup. I will post up some sound clips when I get some recording gear. Cheers!
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johanare
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« Reply #8 on: January 09, 2011, 05:09:12 PM »

Brian - Clator or not?
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Brian Paul
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« Reply #9 on: January 09, 2011, 05:51:44 PM »

J.

No C-lator. Straight in. Running a boss DD-3 delay through the effects loop. I may invest in a C-later at some time. I am configuring my setup something like this.

I have 2, 2x12 cabs with late 1960's EV Sro's. I will be putting my 2550 through one of them, The OTS FM50 through the other. Use an A,B,Y switch.

Boss DD-3 delay
Tube screamer
Stereo chorus
Cry baby wah

Guitars: I play the guitars I build Check my website. www.brianpaulguitars.com
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leodiditright
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« Reply #10 on: January 10, 2011, 06:36:57 AM »

Brian

Happy New Year!

Thats cool man!

As for the FM50, I quite like it. Some find it a bit bright, I guess.

I had a local guy who bought it, and we tweaked it a bit to his liking. Pretty much simple stuff that's done all the time:

a) lower bright cap on the MV
b) 3 way bright cap on the bright switch (68, none, 120pf)

c) 100K slope, 0.001uf treble (instead of 0.0022uf)

d) Switch for the LNFB (local neg feedback loop)

e) Lower bright caps for the Clator as well

f) i also changed the 22m resistors on the PAB relay to 10m.

I guess, my ears are a bit gone, since I dont find the amp that bright?

But then again, I realize that there are people who like it darker (kinda dark for my usual preference), and smoother.

Well, just sayin the mods, if you need it to be less bright, are easy to do.

The switch for LNFB is also always a nice feature to have, IMHO.

The Clator would be nice to have, for sure, but it's not a requirement.

This amp reminds me of the S%M, but less bright.  Its got bite for sure, on the OD.

Thanks!

nik


So if this amp is too bright, why not just get the regular OTS where all the brightness has been tamed by the Scott Lerner mods?
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bobgoblin
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« Reply #11 on: January 10, 2011, 07:11:01 AM »

My understanding is that the effect of the bright cap diminishes as the master volume is turned up.  Further, once you add in the D-lator & the cables needed to interface the amp/D-lator combination, & the brightness, again, is diminished.

It seems Mr. Lerner is a fan of the bright, "Ojai" (or "Ford Mustang") circuit.  The earlier Ayan/Lerner mods (JZucker mods as they are sometimes referred to on this forum) were suggested to bring the early version(s) of the OTS closer to spec with the known, accepted values of a select few Dumble amps.
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bluesfendermanblues
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« Reply #12 on: January 10, 2011, 10:42:22 AM »

Regarding C-lator (Dumblelator) or not.

Remember the FM amp is an clone of Robben Fords amp and Robben Ford always use a dumblelator loop to interface his TC2290 with his amp.
The external loop does two things
He uses fairly long connector cables, that 1) dampends the high end. This is why the FM amp uses a 68pf bright cap across the master volume.
Furthermore, the loop can 2) add some compression if you run it like Robben Ford with amp master volume at 11 o'clock and send and return controls on the loop also on 11 0'clock..

Regarding 1) dampening the high end
I have build the (parallel) loop into my #102 clone amp, so I don't use long cables in/out of the amp, and in order to get the same amount of high end dampening I use a 470pf cap across the ratio pot in and ground buss bar................this is infact the same mod forumite 'Pickmaster' presented last week. Only his mod is more flexible, using a 12 step switch with different cap values for different situations.
The cap on the ratio pot only affects the OD channel and I dont feel the need for a bright cap on my master volume.

Regaring 2) compression

I made some experiments this weekend with my build in loop.

I have added a switch allowing selection between series mode, like the c-lator or dumblelator, or parallel mode. I use the latter which allows you to use moderate quality effects, in my case an old Boss SE70.

I wanted to test parallel versus serial in higher volume situations, how much impact does the serial mode has on the sound - how much compression. I used a cable in the loop ot take effects out of the equation.
Using the loop in seral mode, does indeed allow you the get more compression/light distortion from the loop, but it tends to blur the clean sound, so I concluded that I found that I really don't need that extra compression effect and I'm quite happy with my build in loop in parallel mode.
 
Hope you can use this info
for deciding on wheater or not you want to use a loop
wheather or not you need a bright cap
and wheater or not you will run it in serial or parallel mode






« Last Edit: January 10, 2011, 10:51:00 AM by bluesfendermanblues » Logged

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Olric
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« Reply #13 on: January 10, 2011, 04:47:12 PM »

Can you try with nothing at all in the loop and tell us how it sounds then ?
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Brian Paul
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« Reply #14 on: January 10, 2011, 06:04:38 PM »

Wow, this is getting way over my head. I think the amp sounds great as it is.
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