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Author Topic: OTS & First time Builders  (Read 17078 times)
bluesfendermanblues
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« Reply #15 on: May 14, 2011, 10:15:38 AM »

Thanks for the advice on a non-hrm. I very happy now with the HRM, but if I would've realized at the time just what exactly the #183 was, I probably would have gone with that.  I use to frequent the TGP a lot more about 4 or 5 years ago. I was there at TPG through PRS forums. This must have been about the time that Tag got the #183. At that time I had no idea what it was, but was super impressed with tone. I knew of the Dumble mystique, but didn't realize that was what I was listening to. What I remember more was all the crazy banter back and forth between Tag and others. Shocked I never really participated in the discussions and stopped posting there for the most part about that time. It wasn't until figuring it all out recently through the TheAmpGarage, that it all came together.

Hopefully amp building becomes something I do a lot more of and we can have a great relationship. Thanks again.  Smiley

Now back to the regular scheduled programming.........

I have recently build a #183, sourcing the parts myself, and using a set of tranformers from an old 72', EL34 equipped Laney Supergroup, which was a Marshall Plexi knockoff, but with much better transformers from Partridge in England.

The amp is not that different from a standard Non Hrm High plate or even the #102 (=Ceriatone FM). However, Dogears aka Scott Lerner (super forumite at ampgarage) also knows TAG and has played his amp a number of times, claims that the V1 and V2 preamp tubes, GE 12AX7 short plate, were an essential part of the original #183 amps tone. So I'm gonna chase some of those in order to get the TAG sound.

TAG is a humbucker player (like yourself? you mention, that you 'came' from the PRSforum), I mainly play strats therefore, I have found that I need a 100k slope resistor and a 47n mid cap. - like on the TWOROCK OPAL, as discussed on the AMPG forum.

If you want to convert your own HRM to #183, its actually not that hard, you only need to change four caps - or something like that. You could try that and see if the #183 is 'better' than your present amp. If you decide that you need both a HRM and a #183 you can easily convert the HRM amp back to its present setup.

IMO, the OD on the #183 is quite bright so you might want to up the snubber cap on V2B from 25p to appx. 270p +/- 50p.

One tip regarding all the Dumble amps is to use a dumblelator (=C-lator) in order to get a more 3D sounding tone out the amps.

Another finding is that the HRM (+Bluesmaster) amps are more all reound amps, whereas the NON HRM (Standard, #102, #124 and #183) are more soloist amps.

This off course is just my experience - your mileage may very, as they say 'over there' :-)
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SoundPerf
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« Reply #16 on: May 14, 2011, 05:59:09 PM »

The one chassis part that I am having trouble sourcing is the bias test poles if anyone knows a supplier or what they are really called.
Will these do? I don't think they're exactly like the ones Nik has, but should work. Scroll to the bottome of the page.
https://taweber.powweb.com/store/plugord.htm
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Chris

Ceriatone HRM 50
w/self built Dumblelator
Avatar 2X12 w/WGS ET-65 & Veteran 30
TC Electronic 2290
2001 PRS McCarty
2010 PRS 513 Swamp Ash
Tacoma JK50C
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SoundPerf
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« Reply #17 on: May 14, 2011, 06:40:32 PM »

I have recently build a #183, sourcing the parts myself, and using a set of tranformers from an old 72', EL34 equipped Laney Supergroup, which was a Marshall Plexi knockoff, but with much better transformers from Partridge in England.

The amp is not that different from a standard Non Hrm High plate or even the #102 (=Ceriatone FM). However, Dogears aka Scott Lerner (super forumite at ampgarage) also knows TAG and has played his amp a number of times, claims that the V1 and V2 preamp tubes, GE 12AX7 short plate, were an essential part of the original #183 amps tone. So I'm gonna chase some of those in order to get the TAG sound.

TAG is a humbucker player (like yourself? you mention, that you 'came' from the PRSforum), I mainly play strats therefore, I have found that I need a 100k slope resistor and a 47n mid cap. - like on the TWOROCK OPAL, as discussed on the AMPG forum.

If you want to convert your own HRM to #183, its actually not that hard, you only need to change four caps - or something like that. You could try that and see if the #183 is 'better' than your present amp. If you decide that you need both a HRM and a #183 you can easily convert the HRM amp back to its present setup.

IMO, the OD on the #183 is quite bright so you might want to up the snubber cap on V2B from 25p to appx. 270p +/- 50p.

One tip regarding all the Dumble amps is to use a dumblelator (=C-lator) in order to get a more 3D sounding tone out the amps.

Another finding is that the HRM (+Bluesmaster) amps are more all reound amps, whereas the NON HRM (Standard, #102, #124 and #183) are more soloist amps.

This off course is just my experience - your mileage may very, as they say 'over there' :-)
Man, thanks for all the great information. Even though I'm a PRS guy my "go to" guitar for the last 2 years is this PRS Swamp Ash 513 w/maple neck. I use the single coils probably 60% of the time. So good SC tone is important to me. I also owned a 92' Jeff Beck Sig Strat that I loved and then like a fool, sold. You're right though I use to play nothing but humbuckers for the first 15 years of playing.

Hmm, interesting about converting my amp to a 183...I would have to give that some thought. As far as C/D-lator, I'm saving up the money to build one, but a great forumite, Todd Wilcox, loaned me his Klein-u-lator for a little while to try it out. I know it's not like the C-lator, but it has given me a good taste of what it's all about. I didn't think it was possible to get even better sound than before.

You're right Scott Lerner is incredible. I was playing last night to some backing tracks and getting some great tones and was feeling rather proud of myself. Then I happened to pull of this thread, and got a dose of reality. Man he's good. And the bloom he's getting on this clip is outrageous.
http://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12182&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0&sid=ac650f464ab1fddb2e63609c4a946f2a

That's one thing I can't quite get my amp to do. That's bloom easily anywhere on the neck. It's getting better, but in it's present setup and tube configuration, I don't see it ever being like that clip. But it does have it's own unique character. I do want to try some different tubes in the PI.

I can see your point on HRM's being an all round amp. Mainly, due to the fact that they sound great with big over driven chords. Big Marshall sounding at times. But it solos nice too.

Thanks again for the tips. I may have to hit you up for some advice down the road if I decide to dig into my amp.


* PRS_513_SwampAsh-3.JPG (220.27 KB, 743x800 - viewed 778 times.)
« Last Edit: May 14, 2011, 06:42:58 PM by SoundPerf » Logged

Chris

Ceriatone HRM 50
w/self built Dumblelator
Avatar 2X12 w/WGS ET-65 & Veteran 30
TC Electronic 2290
2001 PRS McCarty
2010 PRS 513 Swamp Ash
Tacoma JK50C
Seagull S12+
boldaslove6789
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« Reply #18 on: May 14, 2011, 08:15:01 PM »

The Dumbleator and Suhr MiniMix II Scott uses really adds the compression and Bloom. Non-HRm's do this very easily. HRm's not so much, you have to really work for the harmonic bloom. A great neck through or set neck guitar also adds to this, as well as having vintage PAF based pups. I believe he uses Wolftone pups in his Baker B3.   

 My Quinn 183 with a D-lator just blooms like a mofo cause of Scott's recommendations of NOS Ge short plates pre-amp tubes, high pF RG-400 cables in the loop, and Dumbleator etc. All these details just add to it and make the amp more versatile, more responsive, and just outright fun to play.

BTW the Klein is also very transparent compared to a good built Dumbleator.
« Last Edit: May 14, 2011, 08:18:44 PM by boldaslove6789 » Logged

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SoundPerf
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« Reply #19 on: May 15, 2011, 03:22:51 AM »

If you want to convert your own HRM to #183, its actually not that hard, you only need to change four caps - or something like that. You could try that and see if the #183 is 'better' than your present amp. If you decide that you need both a HRM and a #183 you can easily convert the HRM amp back to its present setup.
Since you mentioned this, I haven't been able to stop thinking about it. I don't want to hijack this thead (too late I guess Embarrassed ) but I take it you mean just changing some caps in the preamp. Some of the main differenes I see are the two caps coming from the power tube grids. Also my ceriatone HRM doesn't use any snubbers on V2. Another main difference I see is the cap circled in red. Also I believe the value on the LNFB of V1 is a bit different. I used a Ceriatone 183 layout here with circles around the caps I see that are different in the preamp section. Would it really be this easy to get closer to a #183?

I often wondered why there were no snubbers on V2 on the HRM and what difference they would make. From what I can tell all other D-type designs utilize them.

Is there a thread you know of that discusses this in more detail? Thanks


* Capture.JPG (81.26 KB, 590x390 - viewed 1350 times.)
« Last Edit: May 15, 2011, 03:26:54 AM by SoundPerf » Logged

Chris

Ceriatone HRM 50
w/self built Dumblelator
Avatar 2X12 w/WGS ET-65 & Veteran 30
TC Electronic 2290
2001 PRS McCarty
2010 PRS 513 Swamp Ash
Tacoma JK50C
Seagull S12+
bluesfendermanblues
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« Reply #20 on: May 15, 2011, 08:02:07 AM »

Since you mentioned this, I haven't been able to stop thinking about it. I don't want to hijack this thead (too late I guess Embarrassed ) but I take it you mean just changing some caps in the preamp. Some of the main differenes I see are the two caps coming from the power tube grids. Also my ceriatone HRM doesn't use any snubbers on V2. Another main difference I see is the cap circled in red. Also I believe the value on the LNFB of V1 is a bit different. I used a Ceriatone 183 layout here with circles around the caps I see that are different in the preamp section. Would it really be this easy to get closer to a #183?

OK, If you want to hear the difference between your current HRM setup and the #183, all you have to do is the following (reference being amde to attached layout:)

Quick and dirty (point 1-3)
1. Unsolder the two wired from the HRM-board
2. Remove the 0.002 cap and replace with a 0.015 (15nF) instead
3. Bridge the 470k + 47p cap witha piece of wire - and set the trimmer to 20k (middle pin-to- ground)

Minor importance:
4: Put in 25p snubbers - but ou wont really hear any difference in sound (you need appx. min. 220p in order to hear any difference)
5: change caps to 22n - reduces the low end a tiny bit in order to compensate for the 15n in the OD.

And off course switch off the LNFB on V1b

If you decide that the #183 is 'better' for your plaing and taste, you might want to change the
6. OD master to a 250k pot and rewire the OD relay
7. the 47p on the master is needed if you use a Dumbleator - in order to compensate for the cables to/from the cumbleator. - If you Dont' use a D-lator, yet, unsoler one of the 47p legs.

Good luck (I wont mention lethal voltages - or you'll bite my head off  Cool - again) - have fun and looking forward to hearing you opinion about the #183 - ups, almost forgot...put in some NOS GE 12X7 JAN if you can get some...if not go with JJ ECC83S in V1 and V2. I get fine results in my Dumble clone amps with the latter.


* HRM-50W.jpg (361.02 KB, 1685x1274 - viewed 1098 times.)
« Last Edit: May 15, 2011, 08:12:32 AM by bluesfendermanblues » Logged

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SoundPerf
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« Reply #21 on: May 15, 2011, 08:45:28 PM »

Since you mentioned this, I haven't been able to stop thinking about it. I don't want to hijack this thead (too late I guess Embarrassed ) but I take it you mean just changing some caps in the preamp. Some of the main differenes I see are the two caps coming from the power tube grids. Also my ceriatone HRM doesn't use any snubbers on V2. Another main difference I see is the cap circled in red. Also I believe the value on the LNFB of V1 is a bit different. I used a Ceriatone 183 layout here with circles around the caps I see that are different in the preamp section. Would it really be this easy to get closer to a #183?

OK, If you want to hear the difference between your current HRM setup and the #183, all you have to do is the following (reference being amde to attached layout:)

Quick and dirty (point 1-3)
1. Unsolder the two wired from the HRM-board
2. Remove the 0.002 cap and replace with a 0.015 (15nF) instead
3. Bridge the 470k + 47p cap witha piece of wire - and set the trimmer to 20k (middle pin-to- ground)

Minor importance:
4: Put in 25p snubbers - but ou wont really hear any difference in sound (you need appx. min. 220p in order to hear any difference)
5: change caps to 22n - reduces the low end a tiny bit in order to compensate for the 15n in the OD.

And off course switch off the LNFB on V1b

If you decide that the #183 is 'better' for your plaing and taste, you might want to change the
6. OD master to a 250k pot and rewire the OD relay
7. the 47p on the master is needed if you use a Dumbleator - in order to compensate for the cables to/from the cumbleator. - If you Dont' use a D-lator, yet, unsoler one of the 47p legs.

Good luck (I wont mention lethal voltages - or you'll bite my head off  Cool - again) - have fun and looking forward to hearing you opinion about the #183 - ups, almost forgot...put in some NOS GE 12X7 JAN if you can get some...if not go with JJ ECC83S in V1 and V2. I get fine results in my Dumble clone amps with the latter.
Whoa! THANKS for that! That's great. I need to figure a way to convince my wife to let me order the parts for a D-lator and I'll just put these parts in with it. She actually said she tought is sounded better with the Klein, so I was just telling her at dinner it will be even better with a D-lator. Wink Although, she really has no idea what I'm talking about. Cheesy

I actually was looking on Doug's Tubes at NOS. Right now I have Tung Sol RI all preamps with a balanced one in V3. & TAD 6L6 WGC STR's. Looks like the JAN GE's are hard to come by.

I don't know how long until I get to it, but I'll let you know for sure what I think. Oh, and I'll watch those lethal voltages. Shocked Wink
Thanks again.
« Last Edit: May 15, 2011, 08:48:14 PM by SoundPerf » Logged

Chris

Ceriatone HRM 50
w/self built Dumblelator
Avatar 2X12 w/WGS ET-65 & Veteran 30
TC Electronic 2290
2001 PRS McCarty
2010 PRS 513 Swamp Ash
Tacoma JK50C
Seagull S12+
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