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Author Topic: Yeti build  (Read 20484 times)
JonB
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« on: July 01, 2014, 10:35:59 PM »
I hope someone can please help me.   On the yeti 50 bill of materials, what is a CT red and black special?  Where does it go?  Does it relate to B And C?
On the layout, what are those things at B and C?  Finally, can someone clear up V1 wiring?   I mean what is going on at the terminals strips?   Like the black blob on the left strip, something there is grounded but what is it?  It looks jumbled to me.  Please someone help
Jon b
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turd ferguson
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« Reply #1 on: July 26, 2014, 02:26:21 PM »
Also I recommend  the 56K resistors the feed the bias pots need to be 33k 47k to get the bias up to where it needs to be. and use a heat sink on everything on board that you solder
« Last Edit: July 26, 2014, 02:28:29 PM by turd ferguson » Logged
turd ferguson
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« Reply #2 on: July 26, 2014, 02:32:32 PM »
The  red and black special are the famous Jose Arredond  that he was used on hot rod Marshalls and yes they go to B and C Black goes to B and Red goes to C
« Last Edit: July 26, 2014, 02:38:20 PM by turd ferguson » Logged
turd ferguson
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« Reply #3 on: July 26, 2014, 02:33:49 PM »
 AN1 and AN2 are backwards on this layout from output transformer to V4 V5 power tubes. 
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turd ferguson
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« Reply #4 on: July 26, 2014, 02:37:01 PM »
50 watt Yeti layout the blob is a .001uF cap is ground and pussy trim is ground

* Yeti50.jpg (300.97 KB, 1688x979 - viewed 1218 times.)
« Last Edit: July 26, 2014, 02:57:58 PM by turd ferguson » Logged
turd ferguson
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« Reply #5 on: July 26, 2014, 02:48:54 PM »
V1 photo

* DSC00679 (2).JPG (1378.46 KB, 3020x2266 - viewed 813 times.)
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turd ferguson
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« Reply #6 on: July 26, 2014, 03:03:32 PM »
The  red and black special photos

* DSC00646 (2).JPG (1368.4 KB, 3020x2266 - viewed 819 times.)
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JonB
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« Reply #7 on: August 07, 2014, 01:05:59 PM »
Thanks guys....i appreciate the help.   I am sure i will have more questions later as i get further in this build.
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JonB
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« Reply #8 on: August 07, 2014, 01:10:56 PM »
Mr ferguson...do you have any more pics.....like the pcb for the dc heaters
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turd ferguson
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« Reply #9 on: August 07, 2014, 06:24:00 PM »
yes

* DSC00677 (2).JPG (696.95 KB, 1956x1796 - viewed 775 times.)
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JonB
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« Reply #10 on: August 08, 2014, 02:41:58 PM »
Sweeeet!   Thanks, i was wondering how to do it.....
I am sure i'll have more questions coming up.....thanks again
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turd ferguson
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« Reply #11 on: August 08, 2014, 03:35:20 PM »
anytime dude, let me know what you need!  I also have the voltage specs somewhere you will need them to make sure your AC and DC voltage is correct with a multimeter.

Turd
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turd ferguson
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« Reply #12 on: August 08, 2014, 06:00:25 PM »
 I should add that these are with Ceriatone's PT at Maylasian voltage. If your PT has a different HT voltage or spec'ed to a different load then you might see some proportional variances. If the HT is higher then expect all the plate voltages to be higher

if you have not got them yet
I would recomend classic tone tranformers you cant beat them for the money if you got the cash get the Marstran transfomers
 
the voltage specs is for120v lead on power Tranformer

here is the site to go to

http://ceriatone.com/voltage/VoltageChart.xls

Use voltage chart for Cupa 50 voltage 120v it is same voltage as Yeti 50 go to bottom of page and choose the amp voltage you want to view

Rock on dude!!

Turd
                              
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JonB
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« Reply #13 on: August 11, 2014, 02:19:36 PM »
Thanks again....i did get the ceriatone/promithius trannys.  I am a ways from testing though.   Did i read right that someone said the bias resistors at 56 k won't get you the bias i need?  I anticipate having it assembled by october......not much free time right now with my job kicking my butt.   Did you do your initial power up with a variac?
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JonB
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« Reply #14 on: August 11, 2014, 06:56:31 PM »
Oh by the way...as I live in the US and will use 120 volts, what do i do with the extra wires for the other voltages...cut and cap em'?
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