Another thing about the PT; it has 3 red wires. 2 with 340v, 1 with 3,15v. I'm just guessing wich is wich...

I have double checked all the wiring, nothing i could spot wrong.

First step is to pull all the tubes and measure all your voltages with a DMM.

Post the voltage measure at every pin on each tube socket...

If you built a lightbulb limiter to test for shorts at first start-up...and I advise you should have one...you should use it and check for any symptoms of a short-circuit.

Once we've determined if the voltages are correct throughout the amp, then we start tracing for breaks in the circuit. This is best done with a signal generator and a O'scope, but it's far cheaper to make a probe that can be run into another amp.

Building an amp is far, far easier than troubleshooting one.

I don't understand your comment on the effects loop...the layout looks exactly as the pictures show it wired (including your own pictures) Still, NEVER defer to the pictures, the were often taken of amps built with older layouts or different parts. On many of the Ceriatone models, the chassis in the pictures looks nothing like the current chassis/layout.

Last, what Ceriatone supplies is a layout, it is NOT a schematic. There is a big difference between the two, the layout shows the mechanical connections between the parts, but often leaves assumed details, that are the same across all tube amps, out (like filament wiring). But more importantly, if you use different parts, the connections can change as well.

Already turned it on for a minute, the only sound i get is static....

I have it working with tubes and on standby, it measures the following:

V1

1 - 380mv
2 - 400mv
3 - 60mv
4 - 0
5 - 0
6 - 390mv
7 - 610mv
8 - 10mv
9 - 0

V2

1 - 490mv
2 - 550mv
3 - 30mv
4 - 0
5 - 0
6 - 430mv
7 - 630
8 - 1
9 - 0

V3

1 - 290mv
6 - 290mv
all other pins read 0


should i take the tubes and measure every pin?

Thanks wyatt, i'll try your advice before taking it to a tech...

this is what i've got without tubes:

PT secondary taps:
55VAC
374VAC x2
3,4VAC x2
15VAC x2
0V x2

OT Primary taps:
507VDC x3

I've re-checked the connections from these taps on my build, and they seem to be according to the layout...

Measured some connections :  3,4V at pilot light wires and heaters, 6L6's pin3 with 507VDC; 30V to voltage regulator and 25,6V out...
Maybe i just misread the DMM  at the first time    im going to measure again with the tubes tomorrow and compare them with the chart.

Just receveid your reply, ill answer after....

Not true.

The Filament CT (thick green) goes straight to ground.

The High Tension (high voltage) CT (thin green) goes to the  .5A HT fuse.

So, what is happening with the filament wired between V4 and V3 that you aren't seeing 3.15 on the 12AX7's?

So, figured out wich Pins are AC/DC  that's why i had bad readings the first time....

values without tubes:

V1
1 - 334 DC
2 - 0
3 - 0
4 - 3.2 AC
5 - 3.2 AC
6 - 350 DC
7 - 0
8 - 0
9 - 3.2 AC

V2
1 - 340 DC
2 - 0
3 - 0
4 - 3.2 AC
5 - 3.2 AC
6 - 350 DC
7 - 0
8 - 0
9 - 3.2 AC

V3
1 - 434 DC
2 - 0
3 - 0
4 - 3.2 AC
5 - 3.2 AC
6 - 430 DC
7 - 0
8 - 0
9 - 3.2 AC

V4 and V5 measure pretty much the same, so:
1 - 0
2 - 3.2 AC
3 - 490 DC
4 - 490 DC
5    -37 DC
6 - 490 DC
7 - 3.2 AC
8 - 0

Comparing with the voltage chart ( www.ceriatone.com/voltage/VoltageChart.xls ), i have "expected" higher voltages on DC Pins.

Exceptions are
V4&5   Pins 1 and 8 are 0V instead of 37mV

V1 & 2 Pins 3 and 8 are 0V instead of ~1,5V

V3       Pins 3 and 8 are 0V instead of 54V

are these readings tolerable? What would be the next step? Still no burning smell, hope i'm on the right track