Thanks for the thoughts and ideas. I love this amp partly because it's really taught me more about the entire signal path. My tone on all other amps has improved due to knowledge that allows attention to details.
Does nik sell a kit for the slope resistor radial switch mod? I'd definitely want to try.
Ive acquired some vintage GE long gray and some sylvania 12ax7s recently and I'm finally getting tone I am really excited about. I've also started playing with bias. I re-checked bias recently and found my "matched set" JJs were like 12-13 apart now. Either I screwed up, or something happened to one of the tubes... Anyway I don't know how that happens, but between swapping preamp tubes and pushing the bias a bit after getting a matched 6l6, I'm a happy camper.
Lately I'm just using volume knob (which only works for like the first 3 songs) and keeley ts9
Thanks I'll try the front boost. I have an lp1 but seem to end up using a keeley mod ts9 depending on the guitar I have in my hands. I keep hearing about xotic and seeing dudes get crazy tones out of their fenders and egnaters with that boost.
As I analyzed all my knobs on this PAb boost, I discovered there is a newer layout for the mid boost and mine was wired to the older layout! I updated it and my amp now has a bit of a different voice on v2 with mid boost. I need to order some tubes to get that lead gain more dialed as it feels a bit grainy now with JJ and tung sols. Any recommendations? RCA grey?
Also Have any of you done the variable slope resistor mod?
I built based on June 2012 and now there is a new one. It works fine now... Except my bright switch is less pronounced now....no big deal, never used it.
I just checked the schematic/layout on the website and there is a new version! The mid boost and treble are slightly different.
I rewired just now and now I have mid boost... Just need to figure out how to twist the knobs to use this new tone.
I guess I didn't get the memo. Are there other updates I should be aware of? It looks like a slight v1 change. I might just wait on that until I do the slope resistor switch mod over Christmas break.
MID BOOST is a midrange-frequency boost. You can use this to add fatness to your clean or overdrive tones, or even make single coil guitars sound thicker and less scooped. We particularly like MID BOOST with the overdrive mode. With the toggle switch in the UP position, MID BOOST is on. In the DOWN position, MID BOOST is off.
My self assembled OTS sounds great but I realized after tweaking that the mid boost is probably not working right. When I toggle up, it boosts but cuts all the highs as if my guitar tone knob was all the down.
It doesn't sound like this is right. Any tips? Maybe wired something backwards or shorted another thing?
Got a 50 watt OTS head through 2X12 G12-65 closed back cab. Love the tone, but I am really now refining my live application - which right now is chasing volume through the large jam build ups (classic rock based funky jam band).
I find that the PAB boost in the overdrive channel does not boost enough (a lot less than the clean channel) to dominate when I need it to. I have a Kleinulator, and have tried a LBP1 (Electro Harmonix Linear Boost) in the buffered loop, but it reacts differently based on what else is on (3X volume boost when the delay pedal is on, and 2X boost when delay is off???). Lately I have been manually twisting the send on the Kleinulator with my toe for solo boost (volume boost) and twisting it back post solo which is not a very elegant situation. I have been considering a volume pedal in the loop as well - active I suppose.
But before I go buy more stuff, I thought I would ask you guys so that I don't miss something...
I am not sure if my trim gain is too high so the PAB boost is already nearly maxed, or if there is a circuit problem with my boost (it works in clean tones and does get richer in overdrive), or if I should turn my EQ down so the PAB is more differentiated, or try a volume pedal in the loop, or stomps out front?
I LOVE MY TONE, just can't dial my volume very easy on the fly.
I just finished my ots build and am shopping speakers. I picked up a 212 Marshall with g12t-75s for 100 bucks with the intent of cutting the back, selling the 75s and upgrading to g12-65 or evm or even vintage 30/greenback mix. anyway, i played my first job with the ots yesterday.... Although by band liked my sound, and it sounded good in rehearsal, I HATED it on stage...I got usable tones but got lost in the mix except the ice pick tone. I almost went to get my fender deville and tube screamer out of my trunk.... I'm pretty sure I won't ever play a Marshall cab again for a show. It was just ok not great.
Update.... I got the amp back and and jammed with my band and I would do it all over again. It is super amazing sounding. I don't know who would need a 100 watt amp. Way too much in my opinion (I have owned a 100 boogie, twin, and marshall tube amps). About 40 watts is perfect and I prefer 212 to 112.
Hey guys, I just wanted to follow up. I took the amp to a local tube amp guru (Utah), and he went through the entire amp and checked my work. It turns out my main problem was I left the ground off the bar and had a few cold solder joints.
The repair was very reasonably priced and my amp now rips!!!! I am so excited. I could not be happier. I have not gigged the amp yet but had rehearsal last week and it really cut.
Thank you to the many people that helped me from this forum. The tech said don't be afraid to use a really hot iron. I personally turned my iron down because I overheated my deville pcb board when I recapped it.
Long answer... maybe... I tried to build an OTS for my first build. It took about of month in my free time. I have mediocre soldering skills. I know how to put stuff together, and fix stuff pretty well. I got mercury magnetic tranny from Nik.
I found that there are a lot of tricks and concepts that you have to get exactly right. For example the length of the wires, how they are shielded, terminate, how you space stuff together, where you run wires, etc, all matters. You really have to do a lot of research on how amps work. I bought the tube amp book and it was great. I admit, I basically assembled it twice... once just connecting stuff, next time, routing it right!!!
This forum was very helpful, a bunch of good dudes. Also, Nik is very helpful and responsive to questions.
I didn't get all the right resistors from Nik the first time, but I also didn't connect what I got right either. It just took going through every little part.
In the end, I ultimately did not get it done myself. However, I didn't kill myself, learned a lot, and I did get the clean channel dialed, but the overdrive never got right. I took it to a local legend tech - pick it up tomorrow (took him 6 weeks to get to it). He said I had 3 cold solder joints, a missing ground off the bus bar, and general bad dressing. He doesn't know ceriatones, but can fix any fender in under 10 minutes (fixed my blues deville while I waited).
If I were to do it all over, I would probably do it again. However I am a glutton for punishment and only learn by getting in over my head. I built my own pool, fix my own cars, repair appliances, motorcycles, set up my own guitars - do about anything but paint!!! If you are unsure, just do a dizzy30 or princetone first, but definitely do something. The journey was well worth it!!!
Hywelg - thanks a lot! I did not think to check niks resistors for whatever reason. Anyway, i did not receive a 2k2 2watt resistor for B+4. I just ordered and will post results when I get them.
I have been still going through the preamp. My clean is awesome, od sucks bad...
Gratefully from the feedback here I see a problem. In the pictures (links above) i see a 20k (black resistor) on v1 pin 2 and an unknown resistor where the 2k2 goes next to cap on the end.
On the layout, it calls for 22k on v1 pin 2 NOT 20k!!!
I didn't get a 2k2 2w from nik. I got both 20k (black resistor) and a 22k (light blue).
I initially i put the 20k on v1pin 2 , and the 22k where the 2k2 should be ( since that was my last part). Could this be my od problem? I now have the 22k on pin 2... My 20k is where the 2k2 is but is wrong I think.
At RadioShack they have only 1/2 watt resistors in stock, no 2 watt... Mouser?
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12ax7s recently and I'm finally getting tone I am really excited about. I've also started playing with bias. I re-checked bias recently and found my "matched set" JJs were like 12-13 apart now. Either I screwed up, or something happened to one of the tubes... Anyway I don't know how that happens, but between swapping preamp tubes and pushing the bias a bit after getting a matched 6l6, I'm a happy camper.
and keeley ts9