Did you try a Hotplate or similar? I find it does a pretty good job reducing power on my JTM45.

You need a  so called "insert" cable (or two, if you want effects on both channels). It's a stereo jack that splits into two mono jacks. Make it as short as possible as the loop is passive.

You can use something like THIS or THIS. There are plenty other options too. They can sound pretty decent, depending on your criterias, but it won't ever sound like a cranked amp 

Nobody has the loop installed?

Does anyone have the simple loop that Nik installs? I've heard several saying that it's no good...

Anyone agree, or not?

I will  Just hoping it doesn't take too long. The JTM45 is one of the few classics that I've actually never played myself, so I was/am looking forward to this one.

The rectifier tube is also JJ.


Yeah, I thought about the fuse thing, but I'm in Europe (240v) so I guess the 2A fuse is correct 

That's the thing...there was some damage in one corner, but it didn't seem like a big issue. The inner box had no damage at all. But, dropping the package can be done without leaving much visible damage of course.

Preamp tubes were JJ's. The KT66's were unlabelled, but I recall Nik mentioning he used Shuguang KT66's and either JJ's or Tung-Sol for preamp tubes.

Had my JTM45 arrive today...all eager to spend the day playing and recording  this thing (in the middle of a CD production). As I open it up I notice that the red indicator lamp is broken and that the whole chassis had shifted left inside the head cabinet 





I open it up and except for the ripped up chassis I see nothing wrong, no loose parts. I fire it up and the indicator light and tubes light up....yeah, at least I get to hear it, I'm thinking. Flip the standby switch and poooof....dead  Fuses blown, but there's no way I dare put new ones in there and hurt it more...

Brand new amp and I don't get to try it  Painful I tell you! I'm just hoping things can somehow be solved soon as there's way too much HC30 on this CD by now!

Just get a 8 ohm one  One step mismatch in either direction is fine.

"I thought a SS re-amp is the best?"

And this is what I described. Whether you have one unit that does it all, or use the Hotplate and another amp...same principle ya know.

I guess Kerzeck means using the line out from some load box (i.e. Hotplate) and power it with a solid state amp.

You mean muddify even when set to full blast? I'm having Nik installing a PPIMV on the JTM45 I just ordered, and according to him it's like it's not then when on full.