I'm rather convinced that it is my interpretation of sounds that varies.  With the amp in the same room and with the same guitar, settings, etc. some times the tone is very pleasing and other times I'm making adjustments.  I think it's similar to how our tastes for the same foods can vary. 

I am a medical doctor and had to learn in much detail about our mechanisms for hearing and the neurotransmitters involved.  When you hear a pleasing sound from your guitar and amp it gives you energy because certain neurotransmitters are released (in particular - dopamine).  How many times have you played late into the night and are not tired?  This is similar to the good feelings that long distance runners get with production of enkaphalins and endorphins.  When dopamine and other neurotransmitters are released our bodies need some time to replenish or recycle them.  This is the primary variation that affects how pleasing our setup sounds at the time. 

Incidently, the street drugs that are addictive involve these same neurotransmitters.  After taking methamphetamines, for example, one's dopamines supplies are depleted in about a day or so.  Then this person feels terrible and can only think how much better it would feel to be on the drug again.  I play guitar, listen to music, and exercise because I enjoy it and I feel good in a healthy way. 

I use a TC G Major in the loop.  This doesn't require a buffered loop.  (I have a Kleinulator, but I don't use it.)  And I use a Boss GT-8 in front of the amp.  This is working great for me.

Did you set the bias for the tubes?  If it's set too high the tubes won't last long.

Don't forget to consider the distance between the strings and the pickup on your guitar(s).  The magnetic force is related to distance by a magnitude of the fourth power (r⁴), so it doesn't take much change in distance to greatly affect the signal.  Also the thickness of the string affects how much interacts with the magnet and the coils (the low E string will inheritantly provide a stronger signal). 

Try increasing the distance between the pickup and the strings to decrease output from the guitar.

Most guitars I play have humbuckers (with a coil tap for a single coil type sound).  The OTS brings out the characteristics of each guitar nicely.

It's rather bold to say that the most commonly used speakers (G12-65 and EV-12L) are useless.  I use the EV-12L at low, medium, and high levels and I'm pleased at all levels.  I did not base my decision on what notable players are using, but rather after comparing the EV-12L with 5 other speakers.  I don't have a comment about the Tonkerlite because I haven't heard it with my amp.

EV-12L

I sent a clip to Nik last week.  He had Azlin ask me for the settings, so perhaps there will be a clip soon on the Ceriatone sound clips page.  I quickly put it together so it's not perfect, but it gives some idea of it's overdrive tones. 

I am rather impressed with this amp.  The cleans are quite nice, and the lead tones will definitely fit in amidst my other two amps (OTS and DC30).  This is another great amp from Ceriatone.  Thanks, Nik.

I just finished assembling the 2550.  I supplied power and plugged in a guitar.  I was rather impressed with the clean, overdriven, and all out saturated tones that I initially heard - without dialing in the EQ or matching it with a suitable speaker.

I have some troubleshooting to do: once I turn off the lead channel, the switch doesn't turn it on again unless I turn off the amp and restart it.   Does anyone have any ideas where the problem might be?

I ordered the 2550 Kit #2 and received it this week (the faceplates are coming later).  I'm about half done with its assembly.  This is my third Ceriatone build (DC30 and OTS).  I'll try to post a sound clip when it's ready.

I thought of doing this to both kits I assembled (OTS and DC30), but I did not and both amps are very quiet.  I think the shielding of sensitive wires and the overall grounding are sufficient.

If an amp is noisy, it is rather simple to get some spray glue and lay down some foil, making sure it connects with the chassis when the screws draw it up to the cabinet.

I ordered the SB-2 for $50 (http://www.londonpower.com/kits/sb2.htm).  The instructions were not clear enough so I called Kevin at London Power twice for clarification.  It is a very simple installation in the DC30 - the instructions are written to accomodate any cathode biased amp so they weren't specific to the DC30.

There are 2 pots in the kit.  One can attenuate the preamp and the other the power tubes.  The DC30 already has a preamp control (pull the master volume), so I didn't install this part of the kit. 

I didn't add any other controls such as sustain, but this could be done.

If you decide to give it a try, I'll gladly send pictures and comments of how I installed it.

I'm pleased with the results.  The great tones of this amp are now more usable, yet it's original character is retained.

The power scaling kit from London power works well in the DC30.  It was easy to install in the chassis.  I moved the speaker phase switch to the bottom of the chassis and in its place I put the potentiometer for regulating the attenuation.  As attenuators should, it enables me to access overdriven tube tones at reasonable levels.  The tone is fairly well preserved.

I also have an OTS, but have not planned on installing power scaling mostly because I can acquire the variety of sounds and level of distortion with the controls already present (i.e. the overdrive level and ratio, along with the preamp volume and the master controls).

I'm glad you like it.  The EVM-12L serves me well.

Yes, it is a 120pf cap.  See http://www.montek.com/tutorials/cap_codes.html for a good reference for cap values and codes.

Greg

I would suggest carefully reassessing each solder connection using a magnifying glass.  Some have used a chop stick to tap on each connection with the amp connected to the speaker and turned on (use extra care not to touch anything except with the wood because of the high voltages).  You may find a "loose" connection where you hear extra noise when tapping on the solder connection. 

You might also check for any debris (solder, wire, etc) laying loose in the chassis or in each 1/4" input jack.

Good luck.

Greg