Thanks for your time and good info..!
Cheers.

In your opinion,.. can the HRM get Carlton & Ford type tones happening in clean & O/D if dialed in properly, or is the HRM a bit more marshall like in the O/D..?
Any idea if these players use HRM or the standerd overdrive special D-amps..?

That`s great info..!
I purchased the OTS 50 as there wasn`t a 100 available at that stage.
Wish i`d waited a little longer as i would have gone with the 100.

The clean headroom available in the two 6l6 model isn`t really enough for my purposes.
Think i`ll be seriously looking at a new 100 watt combo.

Have you tried an OTS to compare with the HRM..?

Have you tried the kleinulator and/or a reverb unit..?

Cheers.

Hey bud..
there`s a thread just below that should help you with that.
Cheers.

Yeah,. thanks for that Bill, Great stuff..!
Any info you have on Larry`s set-up is appreciated.
This is a great thread.

There`s a thread on page 2.. "getting that Larry tone".
The talk is 5881 tubes..!
Could be of interest since you`re looking in that direction tone wise.

Keep in mind.... Carlton & Ford play through 100 watt D-amps.

Can the HRM be adjusted to approximate the O/D tones of the OTS...?
It would make sense to consider the HRM if it can cover several sonic bases in the O/D channel.

I`ve also heard the out put of the two 6L6 model is closer to 43 watts than 50,
so the four 6L6 model must run 85 - 90 watts.
Can anyone confirm this..?

I`ve played the two 6L6 OTS and think four 6L6s would be the ticket for a bigger tone with more head-room.

Hi there...
That`s a really good question & totally agreed on subject.
Ceriatone doesn`t supply much detailed info,. so any offerings would go along way.

My understanding is the original Ceriatone OTS circuit was solidly based on an 80s model 100 watter, with Ceriatone producing a 50 watt version of that.
Then came a few up-dated mods to the OTS circuit that were included as time went on.

Not so long back Nik made available the OTS 100 watter keeping the circuit up-dates from the 50 watt model.

In close pursuit came the HRM 50 & 100 models that I`m sure come from the 90s D circuit & includes an extra provition to fine tune the O/D circuit with three additional trim-pots in the gain circuit.
From what i read and hear,.. the O/D character can be fine tuned to achieve a smoother and more refined O/D.

As for the latest S&M model,..
Would be good to know more about this one.
As far as i`m aware,. this OTS includes circuit mod suggestions from two Overtone devotees.

I`m not sure if R.Ford and Mr. Carlton use 80s or 90s HRM D amps.
Both amps can sound very similar, but i think the HRM does have a smoother O/D.

I see Larry Carlton on youtube performing 'minute by minute' using his old 54 blackguard Tele & that D amp really suits the Tele big time..!!
Smooth and fat with lots of clarity & chime.
Chords ring through nicely & single lines & double stops sing & are sound full and fat..!

I love Tele`s, but have never really found an amp i like to go with them.
The Tele D-amp combo is a winner i think.

I`ve tried a mesa celestion C90 with great results.
It`s used in several Boogie`s including the MK1 reissue.
90 watts, good bottom end and smooth highs. The midrange is smooth too.
It`s really good for clean tones & sings when overdriven.
Worth considering as an option to the G12-65 or EV-12L.
Would be a good choice for either the 100 watt or 50 watt OTS.

There`s already a thread on page (6)  "New amp available".. re) 100 watt overtone.
The 100 watt version does have several of the new mods that Ceriatone has now made standard in the circuit.
I haven`t played one, but could say it shouldn`t be hell-ishly loud like some may think.
It would have alot of push,. but the main ideal is you`d have more clean headroom available.
The O/D channel can still be set to the required volume via the Ratio & Level controls.
I think the 100 watt version would be a real winner if you value good solid clean tones.
Keep in mind... 100 watts is NOT twice the volume of 50 watts.
Also...the likes of some 12AY7s in the 100 watter might just be the ticket to finding the right balance of headroom vs warmth vs O/D channel mojo..!

That`s a great looking combo in black tolex.
The grill cloth looks really good too.  What is that grill cloth..? Availability of...??

with a 12AY7 it`s set at about 11 o`clock position,.. but that`s with PAF type humbuckers. Single coils may need a touch more. It all depends on weather you think you`re getting the right kind of tone and gain.
A 12AY7 in V1 position didn`t have quite enough juice for me,. that`s why i went with the LPS 12AX7.  More of a rounder, vintage type tone from the LPS over the JJ12AX7.

Did you have to take the gain trimmer up a touch to compensate for the 12AY7 in V2..?
I clipped one side of the cap on the master just as a trial.. and do think it helps to smooth the tone further especially at lower volume settings.

V3- is closest to the power tubes. This is the PI.(Phase invertor)
V2- middle tube. Overdrive channel pretube
V1- is the furtherist away from the power tubes...or firstt tube in line.

12AT7 tubes are often found in blackface fenders & used for functions like the P.I. or somewhere in the reverb driver or revcovery stage... but not so much as a tone generator.
I have tried 12AT7s in other amps before & think these are never as warm or alive sounding as the likes of the 12AY7.
You could try one but i think you`d probably be wasting your time in the OTS as this amp really asks for 12AX7s or very similar tubes.

The stats for most 12AY7s shouldn`t vary too much. I don`t think you should get too concerned about one brand of 12AY7 to another.
Just get hold of something decent like the EH or similar and try one to see if you like tne sonic result..!

I`ve tried all these tubes at one time or another in different amps & the 12AY7 is a really good choice for tone character, warmth and the ability to still have enough gain to deliver.

The 12AY7 is actually about (45%) of the 12AX7s 100% gain factor.
I had written earlier that it sits at 60%, but need to correct that.
The 12AT7 sits at 60%
5751 70%
12AU7 20 %

If you take the chassis out and place it carefully on some supporting blocks, you are then in a position to access the internals.
Connect the chassis up to your speaker cab and away you go... it`s time to experiment.
Just remember though... (amoung the enthusiasm to explore tone).... the amp is alive when plugged in and turned on...!!!   Always be very cautious.!

With the chassis sitting supported & the tubes facing down.. (the same way it is mounted into the head cab) you can easily locate the internal trim-gain pot and adjust as you go.
It will always pay to switch the amp off before putting your small flat-head screw driver in there to adjust the gain trimmer.

It is also very accessable to change the pre tubes in this position, but once again switch the amp on standby & then off at the main to change any preamp tubes.

This way you can try new pre tubes of your choice, fire up the amp & try things.... shut it down again & adjust the trimmer as required.
Fire the amp back up and away you go to repeat the proceedure until you`ve fine tuned to a point that you`re happy with.

Always be careful and take your time when dealing with the amp internally.

I would suspect a 12AY7 will be the one for most guys looking for that warmer, less grainier tone.
12AY7s are usually it little more expensive than a 12AU7, but with the extra gain value it has and the warmth it supplies, it should help you achieve a more refined O/D channel tone with (in my opinion) more D-mble like character.
But you should also try a 5751 as tone is very subjective and you might just love what the 5751 has to say..!

Sovteck does a 12AX7LPS & this is the only sovteck tube i`ve ever liked.
The character of the LPS is warmer than other 12AX7s and a little more open sounding and vintage toned.
Good for (V1) i feel.

You just might be surprised at the difference a change of pre-tubes can bring.

Cheers & goodluck with your tone quest.