Would it be financially hard for you to order some high power resistors from Mouser.?
I do not mean to pry. You can email or PM me if you want to take this off-line.
I can mail you some 10 watt resistors if there is a need.
Keep in mind, the 270 on the schematic is somewhat of a "theoretical" value. In the end, you need to use what works to get the amp working properly.
To back track for a minute....are you sure about that 32.5 VDC across the cat resistor.?
Anyway, if I can help, let me know.
Wyatt is the one with a lot of knowledge about this stuff. He got you started, I should probably just let him get you through this.
Best

I definitely think you want to go the other direction. Try a 270, 280, or 300 ohm cat resistor.
That will get you current down a bit, without going to "thin" I think.
70% of a 30 watt tube is 21 watts. And, are you sure about your numbers.? 65mA per tube is almost double the "normal" current for a 6L6.
JMO of course....
Best

Which would best suit a 5E3 for who.? It only matters what you like. Kind of like asking who is prettier, this girl or that girl. Prettier to who's eyes.?
As far as the Vicky is concerned....I would definitely trust Marks assessment. But then again, maybe you prefer the Jensen's, even if his statement about break-up is correct.
Do you know what I mean.? Read any guitar/amp Forum (gear page, telecaster, seymour duncan, mesa boogie, etc.) and look at what happens when somebody asks for a "speaker recommendation". You get a thumbs up for 10-20 different speakers, and they are all "the best" speaker for whoever is listening.
If you have been playing for awhile, I assume you must have at least one 12 inch speaker laying around. Try what you have and then go from there. You will always be able to use an Eminence Governor or Texas Heat, or a Celestion H30 or CL80.  Buy a few and see what works. Like tubes, you always need to have some extra speakers in your tone arsenal.....
Good Luck

I don't know.....I have definitely changed out my share of noisy, 100k. CC, plate resistors in Fender amps. It is usually related to the age of the CC's. They can be noisy. I tend to use Carbon Film for 95% of resistor requirements. With that said....
It would not be whole lot of work at this point to switch. If it really weighs on your mind, just go ahead and make the change now. I would, but really, my gut says.....You will be fine, do not give it a second thought, unless you stay up at night mulling it over. Know what I mean.....?
I have the ut-most respect for RG Keen. But, as far as tone and resistors....that is the last thing I would worry about. If guys can truly hear the difference in a resistor based solely on the component make up, I feel sorry for them. They must hear everything from interference from the weather to frequency noise in the micro wave bandwidth.  The biggest change in the tone of your amp will come from speakers, preamp tubes, and changing the VALUE (not brand, color or type) of coupling caps.
Nice OT by the way. In the future you may also like to to try steel from Edcor, Hammond, TDS, and Heyboer.
JMO of course.
Good Luck
The JTM 45 is a nice amp

Are you sure you have your In jacks wired correctly.?
Do you know how to check them with an ohm meter.?
Best

Nice Amp....
You will not be "needing" that scope, but it is a good tool to have.
Fortunately, Nik has A Lot of pictures of completed amps. Just follow his lead and you will be fine. He and his employees are VERY good at assembly. Do not stress if your chassis does not look quite as nice (if it does, GREAT), just follow his lead dress and lay-out. Keep wires as short as you can, follow the pictures for heater and ground connections.
Do not cut your Brown and Blue OT wires until you are sure where they go. Amps with NFB or Presence will squeal real bad if you have those plate wires crossed. There is really no way to know without connecting them to the tube sockets and turning on the amp. If you have them wrong, you will know. I even use roach clips to make a temp connection until I am sure I have them on the right tubes. Once you are sure, you can cut the wires to proper length.
Do not be afraid to trash a few resistors and capacitors if you make a mistake. It is better to stop and get a new part than to use something that got bent too many times or scorched with the iron (including wire). Just make sure that anything that gets soldered into place is in good shape. You know what I mean.....
Good Luck

Where do you live.?
I assume it worked 100% fine before this little incident.? all kinds of things are possible if you start getting fly-back voltage. You need spare tubes anyway. put in some different power tubes and see what happens. If you are not comfortable working on amps/don't know how; I would not suggest pulling the chassis.
I have seen a few blown OT's, but not way near as many as people think. Don't give up too fast. Try some new power tubes and take it from there.....
Best

On the layout, both the Mains and the HT say SB......slow blow

Very Nice.
I really dig the Hiwatt bass clone....

If you have built 2 metro's, you should have no trouble. George has a build procedure on his forum. That will generally apply to all guitar amps. Schematics for a Ceriatone are all in the public domain, and available from the INTERNET.
Ask Nik about his kits, he will tell you. But yes, all necessary parts will be included. Look at the Ceriatone web-site. it is FULL of gut shots.
Good Luck

Every amp...? All of them...?
Are you brand new to guitar playing?
With the Fender's and Marshall's, Nik uses the exact same names that the manufacture did.
The Train Wreck, Hiwatt, Matchless, Bad Cat, etc. are a play on words that is so close as not to be in doubt.
As far as power........It is pretty much an industry standard. 2 x 6V6, 2 x EL84, 2 x 6L6, 2 x EL34, etc. etc. The power does not really vary just because the name on the amp changes.
Was there something in particular?

Just off the top of my head.....
How easy do you think it will be? OT impedance. Tube sockets, socket holes, bias circuit, B+ requirements, filtering..... The current draw will be double, but maybe that is a wash with half as many tubes. If you look in the tube manuals, and also a 2 x KT66 amp, you can figure it out. A lot of work for some, just another mod for others.
If you like to do the work....why not? Go for it. You can always put it back
Best

Wow!!!
Rob has great tone.....and phrasing.
Is that the cab with the SRO's?
Nice......Very nice.

Congratulations!!!!
Seems like Nik kind of hit a Home Run with those amps. I know a few guys that have them, and they all are very happy. Are you a gigging musician? If so, do you have any problems with volume where you play when you use this amp?
Just Curious
Good Luck

No, I am not saying that. I did not even mention the word attenuator. Some guys like them and some guys do not. When you change, reduce, attenuate, there is always a price to pay. It is hard to say What method you will prefer. The VVR circuits are very popular, but again, how do you know if you will like it on an amp that you do not yet own.
If an Express suits your needs for gigging and rehearsal, I would not hesitate to buy it. You can play a Valve Jr. at home. What difference would it make.
Wish I could tell you what the Express sounds like with dual 6V6, but we never tried it. Of course, even with 6V6, you will still have a 35-40 watt out tranny. Do you know anybody that has one of these amps that you could try?
Darin (at Tonic Amps) is a real nice guy. You might email him and ask some advice. You should also email Nik and get his opinion. You might like an Express with dual 6V6 and a OT that is lower wattage than what is used with a pair of EL34's.
Good Luck