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American Style / PrinzeTone / Re: Big muscles Prinzetone build....
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on: July 01, 2010, 05:31:31 PM
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Looking good! I just finished my DC30 and I am eyeballing a Fender build  Also is that a powder coated chassis? I can't tell from your pictures but make sure you scrape off the coat at any point that needs to be grounded. Yes I think it is and I already did it... firm ground connection is important   I have never tried the "Fender" Method for wiring the filament, I wonder if when it's free floating it's quieter than the Marshall method. I think dumble uses the fender method right? I did my BM the marshall way but so far that amp has been really quiet. |
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American Style / PrinzeTone / Re: Big muscles Prinzetone build....
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on: June 30, 2010, 11:23:26 PM
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Looking good! I just finished my DC30 and I am eyeballing a Fender build Also is that a powder coated chassis? I can't tell from your pictures but make sure you scrape off the coat at any point that needs to be grounded. |
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Muchless / DC 30 / Ch. 2 - is this normal with the volume control?
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on: June 26, 2010, 10:20:13 PM
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Just finished my DC30 build today. Is this normal for Ch. 2 (EF86 ch.) with the master volume disengaged and the Ch. Volume all the way down, there is still a ton of volume coming through.. seems like the knob is only affecting gain.. is this more like a "drive" knob than volume? My Ch. 1 volume at zero has no output at all with the MV disengaged, however on ch. 2 vol at zero it's a ton of volume but just without as much gain..
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Muchless / DC 30 / Has anyone tried the DC30 with the C-lator?
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on: June 24, 2010, 10:00:08 PM
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I'm assuming there should be a big improvement since it will now provide a buffer for the loop correct? From what I understand the DC30 loop is also a "interrupt" style loop so there is no buffer in between and there will be a big loss of signal when using modulation/delay in there.
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Muchless / DC 30 / Re: VVR working real good on the DC30 (layout)
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on: June 22, 2010, 08:56:32 PM
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Not a great photograph, but it shows how my buddy did a great job inside the amp! You can tell that when you remove the MV pot, you will have plenty of space for the VVR board and mosfet.  By alwalt at 2010-06-22 Thanks! This will definitely help, never thought of doing the Y-split that way, definitely looks way cleaner than what I had in mine. |
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Muchless / DC 30 / Re: VVR working real good on the DC30 (layout)
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on: June 21, 2010, 01:05:13 AM
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I see, do you think its OK to put the board in that position? I couldn't find another place to put it and mounted the mosfet externally there along with the board. Seemed to be the only open space. How does it sound when you use the Master Volume along with the VVR? Also based on your layout, for your B+ out, is it both the OT Primary CT and Choke that goes out?
You can take out the MV pot out, and use that hole. I don't exactly know how to bridge the circuit as I had not done that, but it is something I will have to do. The MV still works with the VVR installed, but believe, there is no need of using it (I have not used mine since VVR). If you do it this way you will find space enough for the board and the mosfet and no need to separate them. Yes indeed, the output of the VVR goes to the choke and CT on the OT. I'll try to find a picture I took some days ago and post it, so you can see what my buddy did. Cool thanks, I'm pretty much done with my build right now, just waiting on transformers and a choke and its done. Pics would be great, I'll let see how it goes once my transformers arrive |
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Muchless / DC 30 / Re: VVR working real good on the DC30 (layout)
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on: June 19, 2010, 07:55:46 PM
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Did you mount the mosfet separate from the board? I'm planning on putting it where you have it in the layout, and it looks like I have to mount the board externally.
On the layout, I put a small box indicating VVR to show where in the path should the board go. But we did not mount it there, phisically. We mounted the board near the pilot light front hole (we used that hole as a test, since I did not know if I wanted to take the MV out). Then I realized that MV was not needed anymore. Since my lamp mount was melted (again!) and have to replace it, we temporally placed the board there, with the mosfet fixed to the "floor" of the chasis. No heat problems there. I have not replaced the light, since I've gigging with some regularity and haven't had the chance. I was thinking to get a led or something that not melt's down! But anyway, mind that the board does not go there! I see, do you think its OK to put the board in that position? I couldn't find another place to put it and mounted the mosfet externally there along with the board. Seemed to be the only open space. How does it sound when you use the Master Volume along with the VVR? Also based on your layout, for your B+ out, is it both the OT Primary CT and Choke that goes out? |
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Ceriatone / Overtone / C-lator owners.. bright switches..
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on: June 11, 2010, 10:53:36 PM
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For the owners of the C-lator, I built the Ceriatone C-lator kit and I've been testing out my bright switches, for the left most one next to the drive, it seems when I switch the bright switch up, it sounds great, however with the switch down, it turns into some really harsh treble and loses most of its low end, is this supposed to happen in the down position? My second one is just really subtle and with it either on or off makes no difference. Is anyone else experiencing this with their switches? Is this wired right?  |
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Ceriatone / Overtone / Re: Ceriatone 100w HRM BM / C-lator - documented build thread link
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on: June 11, 2010, 05:54:01 AM
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Here's a link to my build thread at another forum for anyone interested. Hope this helps! Big thanks to Nik @ Ceriatone for troubleshooting at the end and for Mcinku for his build thread which helped. The thread shows the 100W HRM BM and the C-lator. Here's the link. http://www.rig-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=70633Here's my photobucket link for pics.. http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v344/PeeMonkey/Ceriatone%20100w%20HRM%20Build/Side notes/Tips.. I wish I knew before building 1. Do not peel the white backing to the back/face plates, the plates are held up by the pots/hardware. 2. For 3 & 5 lug terminal strips, do not use the middle lug unless you intend to ground it. 3. For the C-lator build, scrape off the paint at the ground lugs before you build it. Or else it wont provide a ground to the chassis, I learned this the hard way. 4. For Power Transformer wiring, for the 60v and 6v it is in AC so it does not matter which one you use for 60v / 0v. 5. Fit transformers to make sure everything alligns (I used Mercury Magnetic transformers) so I had to drill some extra holes. Hi there, just finished my HRM too. Very good build thread there, well done! I also noticed you mentioned that the Master didn't work on the OD channel. Mine also, is this right or did I do something wrong too? I was going to email Nik about this but I have probably bugged him enough... LOL Thanks! Yeah I found it odd and emailed Nik, he said the master only works in clean mode, so it's fine.  |
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