For the faceplate, it was just a piece of acrylic painted black on the back & the lettering engraved on them from the back. This way, when it is lighted from the back, only the letters show.

For the chassis, I cut some slots beforehand where the letters should correspond (as seen in picture 5).

The bulbs inside the chassis runs off of the heater wirings & are tapped from the pilot light. It is wired so that the pilot light lights up when power is ‘ON’. The bulbs inside the chassis (to light up the faceplate) only light up when the standby switch is set to ‘Operate’.

Thanx.

Hi, Does anyone have chassis dimensions of a Matchless Lightning?

Thanx,
Ahad.

There arnt actual instructions but the layout on ceriatone.com is all that is needed. If you need any more info, you can contact nik directly. He can surprise you with his quick responses! Also, dont forget this forum if you need info!

If you haven't actually worked on electronics before, I would recommend you a lightning kit from nik. Its basically the channel 1 of the DC30 in a 15 watt config. A bit easier to build. But a Dizzy30 kit could also be fun to build!

Thanx.

Thanx Rob, the inspiration for this wiring pattern was autually old Hiwatt & Matchless amps. Hiwatts look just like a work of art.

Considering differences, like you said I also think tweaking with values effects the tone. I beileve changes in brand  will effect the overall sound though minimal. I think it would effect the durability more than the tone.

Most older amps used allen bradleys, but question is were they selected because of the tone or availabilty? I think it's the later. But I guess it's that tone everyone is after these days.

Looking at kits available these days, there are plently out there and I believe the parts aren't that good. But this doesnt seem to be true for almost all of the kit parts in a kit by Nik. Its amazing how he can offer carbon comp resistors,  mellory & silver mica caps for such a small price. Even some of his transformers are from Mercury Magnetics. I only had douts about the electrolytic caps supplied with the kit, they were labelled 'ceriatone'. But not sure about the quality since I didnt use them.

I'm actually thinking of changing all the signal caps to SOZOs. They claim that they are making an exact replica of mustard caps used in almost all of the old amps that we all are after. Even this raises the question, did the early manufectures use mustard caps in their amps because of the tone or simply because it was readily available back then? What do you think?

As for an update,  here are pictures of the complete chassis with the light mod also complete. Will post soem more pictures once it's mounted onto the cabinet.

Here is an update...all the wiring has been done and ready for power!

The wires still needs to be laced though, and I'm planning to install some light posts like the original Matchless DC30s. Note that I have already modified the chassis with cut outs for the faceplate labels so that they will light up (Second picture). I also made cutouts for ventilation on the sides just like the original. I guess it's going to get pretty hot with all the bulbs inside!

This is my first tube amp build! Got the kit from nik a couple of months back but never got about building it for a long time. Anyway now it's almost done now and attached are some of the pics.

I have also made a couple of changes to the kit just for the sake of getting closer to the original Matchless DC30.

1. Almost all resistors changed to Allen Bradleys in 1/2W, 1W & 2W rating.
2. All Electrolytic caps were changed to F & T, Nichicon & Sprague.
3. Control Pots were changed to CTS
4. Transformers are from TDS.
5. The wire wound resistors are from Ohmite & Vishay/Dale.

Thanx