So I have replaced the pre and power tubes and checked the bias and it's still the same. The tone is all there but not the volume.

Thanks Boldaslove.

Nik's response was also that it might be the tubes. I don't have any spare, but it's not a problem to get some - and a much easier fix than the other possibilities.

Cheers,

I plugged in my HRM100 recently after a period of non use to discover it is extremely quiet; turning the volume to full raises it to about TV volume levels. Strangely the tone has not suffered much - there is still a fair amount of gain on the OD channel.

It is not in a cab and has been moved around so it is entirely possible that something has been knocked loose or damaged inside, but everything looks fine so I suspect it may be a faulty part or connection. Because there is still gain when the OD is on I am assuming it must be after the gain stage, beyond that though I am at a loss. The valves all look healthy as well.

Does anyone have any thoughts as to what might cause such a problem and what to test?

Obviously, I have put the question to Nik but I though I'd raise it here to see if anyone else had any ideas. Maybe the answers will be helpful to others.

Mcinku, that's interesting. I hear those Carol Ann amps really sing.

It's somewhat over-complicating it though I think - the thought was more about a small mod to take advantage of something that's already there, rather than building a whole new preamp channel.

Cool! Would the result be the same as a non-HRM ODS? Or are there more differences between the two amps than this?

Does anyone know anyone who has done something similar? I understand this in theory but I'd need a layout to follow if I were to do it for real.

I understand the correct way to use an HRM is: clean/clean with PAB/overdrive with PAB - never overdrive without PAB because then the signal would be going through two sets of EQs. (I say 'never', of course if it sounds good then no reason not to!)

I was wondering if there was a way to switch out the HRM EQ when the PAB not activated to give another useful channel.

Big job? More trouble than its worth? Not a good idea? There must be a reason it hasn't been done.

Cool. Thanks.

I'm going to look into some nicer looking wood - ideally birch or pine plywood with an exotic top layer if it's available to get the structural stability and the looks. Best of both worlds  It's a furniture maker I'm working with who has no experience with speakers and tolex.

Are there any rules for measurements for the oval opening in the back of the cabs a la Dumble?

Thanks. I had the feeling that another Gold would be the best option 

Is the Gold happy to receive the full 100w? I've never been clear whether speaker ratings are about maximum tolerance before break up or before destruction. Would it be unwise to use the Gold on its own with a 100w OTS in normal band settings?

Sweet. Thanks!

Does anyone have experience pairing the Gold with any other speakers in the Celestion range with an ODS-type amp?

I have decided on a Gold for half of a 212 and am not sure what to put in the other side. I'm aiming for tonal flexibility; smooth lead tones, crisp sparkly cleans, Keef style crunch etc.. Sadly my location precludes any brands besides Celestion and Jensen.

Any thoughts? (Sorry to hijack, still in the theme of the thread I hope.)

C~

Thanks Mcinku! That is helpful.

I assume those are *external* dimensions. How critical would you say are the internal dimensions and volume of a cab? Intuition suggests that small changes will make very little difference but on the other hand there seems to be so much research done into cabinet design and one cab can sound so different from another...

This is interesting. Is this something that Nik does in the ready assembled amps?

Looking on the layout, there are two red wired and two yellow lines to V1 and V1. Would you mind marking on the layout which ones should be moved close together? If it is not standard I'd like to do this to mine when it arrives.

Thank you

C~

Hi all

I am soon to join the Creiatone club after ordering an HRM 100 from Nik. I went for the complete chassis (might think about a kit later, but something much simpler!) without the cabinet, to make it easier to ship.

I will be having a local furniture maker put together the head cabinet and a speaker cab. I wonder if anyone can recommend dimensions for a 212 cab that you have found to work well? I am thinking about a replaceable back - one sealed and one with the Dumble oval opening - so I'm also curious about the size of the oval cut out.

Will post pictures in the Completed Overtones thread when it's finished.

Thanks all in advance.