I'm going to be making myself a vertical 2x12 to go with my OTS and I will probably be fitting two g12-65's. When I get the drawing done I'll post it here, but it will be a couple of weeks before I will get round to it though.

i've signed up for the IGF Matt Schofield week long workshop in Bath so I'm hoping I will get a chance to try his TR and I might well take my OTS and see what the differences are. I'll keep you posted.

Might be of absolutely no use to you but attached is a CorelDraw file showing my plans for the OTS head cabs I built. You will find the chassis dimensions in the drawing. The drawing isn't quite finished since it doesn't show the rear batten and rear cover plate, plus some of the labling needs finishing.

Well. my OTS has just done its first gig. From where I stood it sounded good and with my strat it sounded marvellous just breaking up nicely. It really makes a difference to get it wound up.

My settings were

6½, On On, Rock, 7,6,4, 2½, 7, 5,7. OD trimmer a shade under 3 o'clock. HotPlate on -8dB.

I just wish I could have heard it from out front.

If anyone is interested, I knocked up a drawing of the front faceplate to use as a crib sheet for gigs etc. I've done it full size, but don't rely on the hole centres being correct, its only for marking your settings on, not for making new faceplates!

Attached as a pdf you can quite easily print it to an A4 piece of card and get it laminated if you want to re-use it.

Scotto, if you want clarity in a humbucker you have to go for low output vintage PAF type spec. If you go for higher output you will lose treble and gain mid, and this is the same for single coils. I have Fralin Vintage Hot and Blues Special s/c's and Fralin PAF h/b's They are all good but I like the vintage hots best, lovely clarity. You will also find a big difference in quality of tone between machine wound and handwound pups. Fralin does a really nice Unbucker with low output but unbalanced coils that tap really well, if I could find a set cheap I'd have them aswell.

I think not since the originals weren't


Doesn't the 100k resistor prevent you turning the volume all the way off? I've seen it mentioned that you only need the resistor if the cap is switcheable on a push/pull pot so that you don't get a 'pop' when you switch it out of circuit.

I've bought 0.001 uF to do my 335. I'll let you know how it works.

What value caps did you use Mitch. I'm about to do the same on my Ibanez 335.

Cheers

Hywel Harris

Nik does his layouts in AI and is wary of letting these out to the general public. I printed the OT layout on an A3 sheet and used a highlighter pen to mark every connection as I did it.

I think, though that Nik should at the least publish the drawings as a PDF, then they can easily be annotated by modders to show what they did.

The DC30 deeper than the OT by about 20mm I think and whilst it could be made to fit since the other dimensions are OK the current back panel arrangement wouldn't work. It would have to be lower at the top if you see what I mean.

Glad that was an easy fix. How you liking it? Get that power amp opened up and hang the neighbours at least for 10 minutes or so!

Thanks kenster,

No its just a hobby, just like building amps, and guitars etc........(thank god for Warmoth and Ceriatone I say otherwise I'd only be in the pub!) I actually make stained glass windows (domestic only) for a living and I've got a really nice workshop where I can make a mess!!

No problem with the actual turning the FET and OD trimmers, its what you might also touch thats the problem. I've got mine on the rear panel and it has taken a while to find the right settings, and they vary depending on the pickups. The FET trimmer I've not really messed with since I haven't really found a use for that input yet, apparently a piezo pickup works well thro'  it.

My original plan was to make two head shells and cover one in black and one in blonde to see which I liked. Problem was, when I actually got to think about it, if I liked the blonde then I'd have to recover my 4x10 in blonde, then I'd have to recover my 5w SE to match. So I got sensible.

So I now have two covered in black, one of which is available. Made with birch ply, dovetail jointed, stained black inside with foil on upper surface as shelding. Covered in 'Fender' (it looks identical to the covering on my Hot Rod and Twin Amp) tolex with nickel plated corners and genuine Fender 4 bolt handle. Rubber feet on underside. Photos don't show the grille cloth to its best, its a gold lustre thread with black and white in the mix, catch it at an angle and it looks very lustrous. Marshall gold tadpole piping.

Note, the amp mounting bolts are included to show that the holes have been drilled, these don't come with it.

 PM me if interested. I'm in the UK.

The plan I've got is done in CorelDraw and I've put the various parts on different layers. I'll post it as a PDF but I need to work through the minor mods that I did whilst building it and include them and then work out how to show all the parts clearly on a single 'layer' pdf doc. If you can use CorelDraw I can easily let you have a copy of the original file.