Where is your dumbleator? (C-lator) somebody asked Larry Carlton. Oh this piece of shit! Replied Larry and I totally agree, not because that Larry said so but because it really changes the tone of the good amp for worse, unless it’s a parallel one. Probably it makes an average amp sound bit better. I’ve tried three of them. Two made by bludotone end one by C which is very similar to bludo. Get the parallel one or go for Suhr mini mix, fuchs Tube FX loop or Verbrator.
I can't live without this piece of shit; you have to make your amp a little brighter(master bright cap). It should be fine then.
That where the latest Ceriatone FM50 and FM100 come from.
+1
The S&M series are basically the first D'Lite dumble clones from Brown Note.
Regular OTS serie are some mods closer to original dumbles presented by some members of ampgarage.
FM series are indeed based on Robben Ford's #102 presented at ampgarage.
183 serie is based on #183(the former amp of forumite "TAG" at the Gear Page, there is a very funny vid) presented at ampgarage.
HRM is based on ampgarage info but Nik's first run has some altered values. Probabably to his taste. The last HRM run is closer to some ampgarage info.
And the latest HRM MK2 is very close to a Two Rock Emerald Pro I've seen.
C'mon Nik, the original design with the 68pF on the master is over the top bright without a dumblelator. Removing or lowering the master bright cap is more S&M like I agree.
Yes correct that is the slope resisor, making iit switchable requires a capable switch. It's , from a electronic point of view, directly connected to the plate of the tube and sees around 200V.
Make the mid cap 0.05uF. If that's not enough; make the slope resistor 100k.
Hi Erwin, I added a switch on the mid cap, so when its on its about 0.045uF, and when it's off its back to it it's origional state. It makes a big difference, but I'm glad I made it switchable cause I'm lovin both sounds Thanks for the info. . .although I can see that I'm gonna end up with a lot of switches on the back of the amp hehe..Am I right in thinking that the slope resistor is right next to the mid cap (left and slightly down on the layout diagram) with a value of 150k? Cheers again!
Settings: vol 6, bright off, mid(labeled deep) off, rock, treble 5, mid 3 1/2, bass 3. level 3, ratio 3, master 5, presence 6. Dumblelator( drive 5, in 10, out 3) used with replifex in the loop, set at 170ms delay. Overdrive channel was used, no PAB.
Let me know if you want a schematic; I can e-mail it.
Recorded with a sm57 into pro tools8 and added a fair amount of reverb in pro tools.
Check if the plate, cathode and grid wires are "touching" the heater wires. If so; move them(plate, cathode, grid) up a little (1cm) so they won''t touch the heater wires anymore. This is often the biggest problem regarding the fuzzieness.
Hi all I just picked up a factory OTS with no mods. Runing it as so: 2x12 Avatar w WGS ET65s (tried: 2x12 G12H30' 1x12 G65 and 2x10 weber c10n) Fuchs verberator (not recommend adds brightness, big disappointment)
While the cleans are nice, albeit rather harsh on the top end, the OD is just awful. I cannot coax anything but fizzy fuzz crap from the amp. No singing sustain or harmonics that would be considered pleasing. I have swapped tubes, checked bias and used numerous guitars. I have not adjusted the internal trimmer... What am I missing? I have reviewed numerous settings, but with no luck!
Sh..t! you’ve just reminded it to me mate! Indeed I’m back.
So: Get the oil of Afro-dytee lady, An' the dust of the Grand Wazoo : You might not believe this, little circuit, but it'll cure your harsh tone too!
I hope circuit is self explanatory and easy.
But don’t forget – my amps are NON HRM !!! It will still work but do you need it when you already have HRM trimmers? For more “bloom” try to replace your 150k slope resistor with 68k. Good luck.
How complex are the changes? I would be very grateful if I could see the schematic changes you made. Seems like mine sounds like your used to.
thanks chris
It's a time consuming operation; about 4 hours. If you're comfortable with reading schematics(no lay-out!) you should be fine. Let me know; I can e-mail the schematic.
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Thanks for the info. . .although I can see that I'm gonna end up with a lot of switches on the back of the amp hehe..Am I right in thinking that the slope resistor is right next to the mid cap (left and slightly down on the layout diagram) with a value of 150k? 
