Sounds like he playing tho' an EL84 amp to me.

I need to hear some powerchords!!

Love the cleans of my OTS (still need a bit more brightness tho' thats another story) , and the od channel now its got a 5751 in V2. This gives me much less gain, more of an extension to the clean channel which I really like.

I want to try and get that Marshall crunch sound from a pedal and I've seen the clips on Xotics website and wondered if anyone had tried one with the OTS

Thanks for the comparison. I've been contemplating getting a G-sharp for a while now but have spent too much on pedals recently so its going to have to wait a while. I was concerned that the  K rolls off the top end which I'm anxious to prevent since my amp is not that bright to start with (another story), so I think I'll probably try the G-sharp without a K for now.

Just been to my local valve supplier

http://www.hotroxuk.com/store/erol.html

He deals with Marshall so if you want the genuine stuff, email him (his name is Mark) with a photo and he'll get some for you. He says its no problem to send it to Holland.

I reckon you'll get these to ship to Holland.

http://www.allparts.uk.com/coverings/grill-cloth-c-277_297_446_548.html

and of course theres always TAD

http://www.tubeampdoctor.com/index.php?cPath=25_43

I would really appreciate your opinions on how the G-sharp performs without the Kleinulator and with it.

Thanks

Hywel Harris

This guy sells some lovely vintage cloth.

http://www.vintage-radio.com/trg/ I'm sure he'd send you some samples if you asked. They look much much nicer in the flesh than in the photos, most of them have some gold thread in them.

I used a staple gun to fix the cloth. First off fold the cloth over and make sure the threads are aligned parallel to the edge of the board. Staple (on the back not the edge) every 50mm or so starting 25mm from the corner. Flip it over, if you are happy with the alignment add more staples so that they are about 15-20mm or closer. Then along the other edged just pull it tight by hand and then flip it over to check that the weave is straight and not skewed, then place one staple at the point where you have pulled it tight. The move along 50mm, pull tight , staple. When you've got to the end check the cloth then you can add the remaining staples pulling tight each time.

Then do the same for the other sides being careful on the first edge not to pull the weave out of alignment.  This will leave you with the corners to trim, now I've found the best way is to use a soldering iron to cut the cloth, it seals the edges nicely. When you've mitred the corners staple these down aswell.

If you've got any looseness in the cloth dampen it lightly and then dry it with a hot air gun (DON@T GET TOO CLOSE OR YOU'LL MELT IT!!) or a hairdryer, this will tighten the cloth.

If you are making a new board to mount the cloth use paint to blacken it not dye since the dampening will pull out the dye and mark the cloth. You will also find that a very small (1-2mm) chamfer on the front edge of the board will aid tensioning the cloth. You will need to allow for the thickness of the cloth, especially at the corners where you might have a double thickness, so don't make the board too tight a fit. If you are going to fit tadpole piping it needs to be smaller still I take 4-5mm off each tight dimension, but the benefit is that the piping easily hides a slightly too large a gap. (this is for fitting into a wooden enclosure like the TR arrangement, not the aluminium strip that D's and Nik use)

Hope thats some help

Hywel Harris

There was another thread about this, seems the orignal k's that Nik made had 2.5mm sockets as opposed to the standard Boss 2.1mm sockets that he now fits. It would be a good idea to swap the socket I think, the 2.1mm is fairly ubiquitous in the effects world.

My Fralin PAF's sound quite dark aswell, but not thro' other amps!. They tap very nicely into the ODS, very jangly and bright.

PAB = Power Amp Boost. This takes the tone stack out of the circuit giving a volume boost going into the power amp.

Your number 2) is where you should investigate. Those two switches should operate independantly and you should be able to hear the difference. If either of those is giving problems I'll bet thats where the problem with the footswitch lies. If either of those give any problme at all, investigate the relays to see if they are seated correctly

Do you get both the PAB and the OD working when the pedal is not plugged in? Not sure how Nik is wiring these now but on mine without the pedal plugged in PAB is on when the switch is UP and the OD is on when the switch is DOWN. They both need to be down to have the pedal do the switching.

If you can get both to work without the pedal plugged in then its my guess the pedal is the problem. If not then I think one of the relays has become unseated in transit. You'll need to reseat them, BEWARE, high voltages inside the amp, check the caps have all drained before delving in with your hands.

Email Nik, explain what you want to do and I'm sure he'll let you have the source file dating from Feb, if you promise not to distribute it, only images exported from it.

I fully intend to. I would say tho' that the blue light is common on Fenders when you've got them working hard first time it happened to me it frightened me a lot until my tech told me it was normal. You really only notice it when you can see in the back and the lighting is poor.

I've not got my 6L6 tone sorted yet, its not really 'chimey' so I intend getting that dialled first then I will be trying them. Might have to take it to a tech, most of the mods posted here assume a knowledge level way above mine.

I know its a PCB amp , but its got great tone plus good channel switching options, just imagine what it would sound like PTP wired with quality components!!

Just the VAT to pay plus a £10 fee to the carrier for the privelege of having them collect the tax off you.