Thanks for sharing this... at least I know now how Nik looks like.


 

mmmmmm
tasty

 

Some nice looking amps guys.

 

I guess everyone builds amps differently, I like doing it like this...

Mount all the parts but don't put the board in... and wire the hearters first, than wire PT and OT and the power cable, switch, light...

Put the board and solder on flying leads... just clip the wire to length and solder those into the tube sockets.
The last thing I do, is wire up the pots and input jacks.

Who cares about Klein settings...

I want to see those pictures now!! 



PS:
I don't know if you know... there is a manual for the Klein.
http://www.ceriatone.com/Manuals/ceriatone%20klein-ulator%20manual%20072508.pdf
Check out page three for the settings

 

Well maybe changing plate/cathode values would bring you closer to Fender tone. V1 100K plate, 1K5/10uF cathode and V2 150K, 2K2/10uF just like famous #124 amp... but remember that will change your OD tone as well.

To me, OTS clean sounds just right... but that's just me.
 

I wouldn't spend another 100bucks on caps. Sprague caps are not junk... even mr. Dumble him self was using them... no to mention companies like Fuchs, Glaswerks, Bludotone, TwoRock just to mention a few.
You better spend that $100 on some NOS tubes or some good speaker... that sounds much better idea to me.
 

Can you do a little before/after clip?

To late for that probably.
 

Well technically speaking S&M has a bright cap on the master vol,OTS does not and S&M has 2.2uF V1b bypass cap and OTS has 5uF. Both things do affect the clean side.
Like I said OTS should be a bit warmer.

I owned an OTS for almost a year now. I started out with the S&M model and at first I was happy with it.
At first I was using clean channel only (along with my pedalboard) and I was happy. But hey D-amps are known for their OD and there was nothing wrong with S&M OD ch... the only problem was if I wanted to switch channels on the fly. S&M is not designed to do that well.

So my first mod was to bring the channels (tonewise) closer. I was changing things very slowly... resistor here, a cap there... each time playing the amp. Finally I came really close to the current OTS model.
Well I didn't remove the mater vol. cap and didn't change the 150K resistor to 180K (the one which sits before ratio pot).

With all those mods amp sounds about right to me.
'Cause I use all kinds of guitars with my OTS, my next move was to change the bright switch values, put a 390p on the mid-boost and I installed deep switch instead of FET (which I never used anyway). The goal was to achieve more variety for all those guitars.
Finally filter caps were added, bass cap changed to .001 (it had .0012 before), FET simulator resistor installed, lead dress changed a little and now my amp is complete.

Oh forgot to mention,... I also installed LNFB mod but the jury is still out on that one. Not sure yet but I might change that to something else.
Pre OD pot seems something worth doing.

Thank you all for helping me get there.
 

Well both amps sound good... OTS will sound a little warmer on the clean side compared to S&M.
Main difference is OD channel.
While S&M will have more presence and bite (better in a band situation), OTS  will again sound warmer. Main thing here is, if you plan to switch channels during the songs go for OTS, if you tend to stay on one channel than S&M will work fine.
90% of people will buy D style amps for the OD sound only and almost never use clean (which is just as good).

So it depends how you plan on using this amp.
 

If you have the parts and know how to solder... easy
 

What do you want to achieve by doing this?

I have on-off-on DPDT switch with 47p and 100p caps. I also use 15p on the master vol and that works perfectly for me.

 

Aaaaa, you want only eq stuff, well I guess that is possible.
Drop Nik a mail.... he's not often on this forum.

 

No, mine OT,PT are Ceriatone.
You can always go to TRM, currently he has a HRM on stock.