To some degree, yes it is a modded bassman, or a cross between a bassman and a plexi, but they really do have their own sound and unique voice. Also, last time I had it on the bench, plate voltage was 562 volts, which is about average for Migs, I think the high plate voltage is what gives it it's unique character

Hey Nik, how about a nice handwired clone of the Sovtek MIg 50? I'll even send you mine and you can use it for R&D purposes 


Oooo i even have some name ideas

The Ruskie
Sputnik
Red October
Rasputin
Cryllic Mystery
Glastnost
Oerestroika
K19-The Widowmaker

Actually the last one fits, due to its insane plate voltages 

I REALLY want this amp, as i have have told mcinku, but with the exchange rate, and now the impending financial melt down  i really shouldn't...but i prolly will 

Any chance of an HRM type? 

Never mind, saw it above doh!

I switched mine to a 7025 (low noise 12ax7) big, big difference.

+1 to all of the above. Check the tubes, and make sure they are snug. Also, like Todd suggested, check your loop if you have anything in it. I have a holy grail in mine, an di forgot to plug it into the power adapter. went to step on it for a nice reverby passage and...whisper quiet! Doh!

archelo is that a tweaker in the background?

that is an awesome cab!! i was thinking a lil smaller like a combo, but that is even better! 

yeah, they are quite pricey, that's why i don't have one. I just have a line filter power strip, that's about it.

Oh, popped the 6L6WGB's out and put the TAD 6L6WGC's back in, turned the Sag off, and biased it back to a more D-Style rating of 40ma. I miss that saginess and crunchiness at times, but overall the amp sounds like it's supposed to (quick attack, more singing sustain, less dark, etc) and it has got to be safer. I guess i'll have to wait until i get the cathode bypass switch installed to explore the saggy side with less fuss

Thanks for the replies, guys. I have been thinking about doing this since i ordered the amp. I actually considered asking Nik to do it for me, but he was already doing alot of mods to the amp as it was, and he was kinda swamped

I originally thought about having it switchable to cathode bias to compliment the sound in Sag mode, when i have the Sag resistor engaged to simulate having a tube rectifier, (which works very well, by the way) to make the amp respond completely differently when i wanted to, kinda like having 2 amps in one.

Now I have a second reason. When the Sag resistoe is engaged, the current draw at the cathodes dropd about 10 ma, so, in other words, if I have the amp running at standard voltage, and have the tubes biased to about 40ma, and flip the Sag in, the current drops to 30 ma, way too cold. Of course, rebiasing is not a big deal, but if you are gigging, stopping to adjust the bias can be a pain. I figure if i have the option to go cathode bias at the flip of a switch, i can switch to sag mode and cathode bias, and voila, everything should be fine. Of course, the amp would sound completely different and not very D-Like, but that's kinda the point. I also plan on having the bypass cap able to be switched out, or just elminate it all together. What do you guys/gals think?

So, just for fun i thought i would add the ability to run both fixed and cathode bias as described here---->http://www.londonpower.com/cath-fix.htm

My question is this. Is it better to have a shared resistor and capacitor for both tubes or is better to have an individual resistor and capacitor for each tube?

I love diagonal cabs. I think my next build will be a champ ultra combo modded like mckinu's, but with 2x10 mounted diagonal

Doh! I missed the part where you said you took the tubes out. Sleep deprivation can be a killer ;-)

That's great to hear that celestial took care of you. Good customer service can be hard to find these days

Very nice!! Love the Vox Grill