These cup washers are also used on Ibanez guitars (indeed and detachable neck guitar that has the recessed neck screw holes) . This type are much better as they a solid rather than pressed steel.

Here in the UK

http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/product/Neck_Joint_Bushing_%28Ferrule%29_TLB3C

Same the world over I reckon. You can also get anodised aluminium and SS ones on ebay, search for cup washer. A lot of them are too small though.

No the pots and switches are mounted direct to the chassis and you have to wire them in.

Knowing what I know now I would have mounted the EF socket differently. Soft rubber washers under the mounting lugs only, doing away with the rubber ring which is quite hard and unyielding and just nip them up using nyloc nuts. EF86 is very prone to microphonics and you need to isolate the socket as much as you can from vibrations in the chassis. I've cured the problem by using NOS Mullard vavles, but how long will they be available?

Yes

You'll need to study the photos as the layout does not show this, but principally its the wires from the inputs, to the loop jacks and to the volume pots of both channels.

I'd be very interested to know how the change affects the clean tone . I do find the clean channel a bit too 'dry' for my taste, usually juicing it up a little with a mild overdrive pedal (red snapper or BB AC boost). I know that the clean is designed to be clean all the way up and it might be sacrilege to mess with this but I'd be willing to make the change if it gave me just a tad of break-up.

Not had chance to try my K* with the DC-30. I'm leaning to the opinion that the DC is such a nice raw amp on its own, that I don't think I'll want anything in the loop(s). Might be worth making the effort to try it though when I get time.

Something everyone keeps saying about parallel effext not messing with your tone, maybe they don't as much as serial, but say if you've got an FX loop that really badly sucks tone and you mix it 50%wet, then you'll get a 50% tone suck! I know you can set the wet sound to over the top and then just blend a little of it back, but it will still take something away.

Like that Wet box idea, and the Remote Loopy 2, very innovative company GigRiG. I reall want a Humdinger with A/B/Y amp switching, that would be nice.

Nice.

Are you there Nik? this would be really good to do. I'd like one for both my D-30 and OTS.

If you look above this you'll see the heading Board. Above the pics you'llsee the heading Creme Brulee Parts. Begins to become self explanatory, but yes the board does have all the interconnect wires attached. You'll need to route them, dress them and solder them to the item at the other end of the wire. The kits contain all parts needed to make the amp, you will need to mount them and connect them. Kit 1 , all parts without trannies as some people prefer to source their own. Kit 2 Includes trannies. Kit 3 is complete assembled amp without tubes. kit 4 is same as 3 but includes tubes. Then there are options for complete with cabinet etc.

If you don't want to do any soldering pay the extra for Nik to assemble it. He charges peanuts.

HTH

Consider the DC-30. Wonderful clean and lovely crunch tones. 30 watt with switcheable 15 watt half power. It is LOUD. It is a classic sounding amp, full of character and tone.

I get complaints at 10:00 never mind 12:00!!

Title says it all....

My channels are fairly similar in volume. Did you build yours yourself or was it a complete amp from Nik? If it was from Nik email him and he'll talk you through the diagnosis. Check your FX loop wiring each channel has its own FX loop.

Is the volume the same for both inputs? Check your input jack wiring.

Yes. I have a two knob Powerscaling setup, Power and Drive Compensation, because as you reduce the voltages you get more distortion, so turning down the Drive Comp it cleans up the sound. But don't get carried away, the tone at bedroom levels is not as good as cranked. This amp needs to be shifting air!


No the microphonics are volume/vibration related, and not a problem at all now with the Mullard.

Having started to read that document I began to think, if its that complex its not the right thing to couple with an OTS. The OTS is a simple amp (albeit with a lot of complex wiring for the switching options), very well done. I'd advise you keep it that way. Use analog true bypass wherever possible and if you absolutely have to go Digital for your fx make sure you can hard bypass them, because frankly otherwise you will have wasted your money on the OTS.