OK, so yours are a little different, but they are the same as mine so here goes.

345-0-345 are purple - brown -purple these go to the diodes on the powersupply rectifier board, the '0' goes to HT fuse.

0-120-220-240 are the incoming supply group. 0 goes to the neutral of you mains socket  and the wire matching your wall voltage goes to the mains switch, make the others safe and coil them out of the way.

3.15 - 0 - 3.15 are the heater supply, 0 to ground, 3.15's to the tag board and on to the heaters/filaments

6 - 0 this is the footswitch supply connect as per diagram to the footswitch voltage regulator board.

60 - 0 (OK yours says 50 but thats fine) this is the bias supply, connect the 50 to the board and the 0 to star ground.

The label should have the voltages of the various taps which should allow you to correlate the wire colours to the layout drawing (post a pic maybe?). If it doesn't you'll need to email Nik because, for future reference (ie future owners and repairers maybe 40 years down the line when this is a cherished antique!) you really do need these labels.

I run mine for 2 hours at rehearsals with no problem. Only gig it has done it was running flat out for about an hour and again no problem. It is in a Combo upside down.

Really excellent playing, lovely tone, quite bright for H/B's. I guess that was the O/D channel?

Figured it out now, its the 3 way switching you added between pin 6 and 7.

have you left the mid and bass caps at 0.1  after you changed the slope resistor to 60k?

Sssshhhhhh.....

Ahh.... I saw our mutual friend play the same Bludo (keeping it cryptic as i'm not sure if its common knowledge) at The Running Horse, he's got it on loan. Thats  Bluesmaster style is it? OK, where I stood it was sounding a little darker than his TR (though he did say after, on stage it was brighter, he did have the plexiglass screen up) but still wonderful, and definitely a little more edge to the OD than usual.

AS re those mods you've done which is the -ve feedback on V1? I'm off to compare layouts.

Have you heard or tried a BM Doc?

Thanks a lot for all that info. As I've got an SB powerscaling kit on my DC I the Pent/Triode switching is probably not necessary, however increasing the clean headroom on the clean channel would be very worthwhile.

Most of the mods you've done seem to be aimed at taming an overly bright amp, clipping the volume bypass caps and the tone switch cap, plus giving the cut control a bigger cap. I'm running mine with a single g12-65 and whilst its bright its not overly so. I might well experiment with some different cap values maybe on a DPDT switch.

Can you attribute any difference in tone to the Sozo's?

I had a unique opportunity to hear my amp played by someone else the other week. I went to see a Free cover band whos' guitarist was the amp tech who fitted my powerscaling. Anyway his amp, a plexi style 50watter,  packed up after 3 songs (he did admit he'd done a whole load of mods very late on in the day) so I voluntered to fetch my DC as the alternative was a bass amp! He played it almost maxed and it did sound sweet but very definitely a small amp being driven hard compared to the plexi which was quite a lot louder and had loads more headroom.

Thats very good of you to share these. I wonder if you'd mind describing how the overall tone has changed after the mods. How does the Pentode/Triode switching affect the tone. Every other amp I've tried with this facility has suffered. You cite Kevin O'Connor in relation to the screen resistors, (M5 Power Amp schematic), is this mod designed to assist the Pentode/triode switching?

And have you experienced any microphonics problems with the the EF86?. I cured it with a NOS Mullard, but I'd be interested to know of other solutions.

Thanks

Hywel Harris

If you have the EF86 version then it'll be that valve. Very prone to microphonics. Had the same in my Dc-30. You need a Mullard EF86, never get any problem with that valve.

From way back :- Peter Green
Now :- Matt Schofield

Nice playing Doc. Wish I could have been there. Small clubs are just the best for atmosphere. Saw Matt Schofield last month at a similar sized venue and it was absolutely electric. Booked to see Bonamassa at a big venue in November and I'm not expecting it to have anywhere near the same atmosphere.

The wires you refer to are shielded cables and at one end the shielding must be grounded. Thats what those connections are.

No it shouldn't do that. You've got your wiring wrong somewhere, check the input jacks first, then follow the signal path.