Thanks! That was what I was looking for I'll try that.

So it's following the Alphabet rather than the turret board...

Thanks.
I understand how the selector works, but what isn't clear is which wire from the board goes where on the switch.

Yeah, I'm building this thing right now and was wondering the same thing...
Nik's layout is not conclusive as the 6 positions are evenly devided on there but in reality you go from 3 o'clock to 9 o'clock.

There must be more people out here who have built it 

Should you just keep the order of the turret board and start with L as the first position at 3 o'clock? The order of wires on the switch in the layout is not the same as the turret board....

What value resistors will you be using for the 6 way TONE stack of the EF86 channel?
I was wondering because the layout read 5M1 resistors, but the kit I just received has 4M1 resistors.

Just make the difference between de platevoltages as small as possible.

From what I understand you can create a balance with the internal pot?
How did you guys set the pot? What;s the voltage difference between both plates?

Just finished an HRM.
Wallvoltage is about 230V over here and I used the 220V tap on the PT, so my filament voltage is 6.4V with all tubes installed.
Plate voltage on the 6L6s is about 470V.
I think that is a bit higher than values I read on this forum...

Can this be a problem? The amp has a lot more highs than on the videos I see on youtube, can this be caused by the (overall) higher voltages in the amp?
I am afraid that if I switch to the 240V tap on the PT, my filament voltage will drop to 6.1V which is very low. I always build by the rule that filament voltage should not be lower than 6.3V.

Any suggestions for smoothing out the highs?

Hi folks,

I am working on an HRM right now and having a bit of difficulties understanding what's going on on the backpanel.

I see 2 holes marked "power', "full" and "half". On the layout I see a pot in that area reading "OD trim".
However the pot doesn't fit one of the holes and there's no other hole for the OD trimmer.

So how did you interpret this?

I want to put in a half power switch, but the space around the 2 holes is too small for a big DPDT switch so I want to use the otherwise unused polarity switch for that. Anyone else done this?
Has anyone tried a half powerswitch in this amp at all?

Would like to hear your experiences.

Thanks!

Hi guys,

I want to try to build in a footswitchable boost to give me some more tonal variation with the 20W.

Something along the lines of adding a cap to a cathode resistor somewhere?

I am thinking  about the 8k2 and putting something parallel (to ground - which is necessary condition for being able to use the footswitch I have).
Anyone has experience with values that work?

Here's the second one I've built:

Don't know where you are located, but Tube Town in Germany sells tolex that looks just like Tweed!!

http://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/product_info.php/info/p1663_Tolex-Tube-Town-Tweed-Vinyl.html

Have to do some research on this amp as I am a Marshall man by nature, but a colleague asked me if I could possibly build him a Twin Reverb clone....

What would it take? Would a Ceriatone full kit be welcomed?

Customer is very happy with it, but says there's not a lot of headroom.
No clean sounds at higher volumes, it starts to crunch really fast.
Nature of the beast I guess, to me, the 18Watt doesn't have much clean headroom also.

Hi,

I use German Mustard cap clones and sometimes Sozo's and I use my own carbon film resistors.
I also wired it as much as the old Marshalls, including grounding.

To this one I added a PPI Master Volume, the second one will be more stock.

The logo plates are made by Nik for me 

It sounds great. Not a huge amount of gain, but a tubescreamer goes a long way.

With every chord you can hear the individual notes even at high volume, which is great.

I am really sorry to have to part with it this Saturday already, but I am building another one!