Cool link, Plasticvonaband! 

Exactly, I would've owned a true regulator long ago if t wasn't that even a mid level one is in the $700 to $1000 range. Like this one. http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/P1800AR/

Amazing you found photos of those items.

My very first guitar was a late 70's copy of Gibson L6-S made by a company called Cortez. It was actually a very nice guitar for the money. It was a deep brown translucent color with maple neck. I didn't have it too long before I sold it and and got a 1980 Ibanez AR-50. Black double cutaway with Mahogony body and cream binding. I put some DiMarzio's in it and it was my only guitar for a long time.

This is also not my exact guitar, but a photo lifted from the net.

Whoa, this is very unexpected news. 

Way to go Nik!!!

Nice looking top. Looks like a great guitar. 

Those are two great places to start. I could only choose one to start and went with the HRM, which is a great amp with many sonic possiblilities. However, I will always be curious to own/play a straight up OTS. In your case, beyond what you'll have, venturing into the 183 territory is something to consider. Personally, I would like to find out what one based around EL34's and the precision power supply would be like.

You never mentioned where you had the "IN, OUT & DRIVE" set.

I have to agree with this. Plus, unless you find someone who knows exactly what all the extra things are and what they do and are looking for those features, it might likely scare some buyers away.

Considering all your needs/wants, and most of all price range, I would say go for it. It sounds like a reasonable solution.

But, sometime when you get a chance I would take the time to read up on what the C/D-lator design does besides buffer the loop signal. Things like changing the gain and drive stucture for the better. IMO

Thanks!

On the handle, I was going to post that observation on your thread at TAG. The handle, grill cloth and piping are a much closer color match in real life then the photo shows.

BTW, you're doing great work on your new build.

I have been wanting to post some pics for a while. So here they are. I built the head cab myself. First time building an amp cab, never did tolex before. Cab is made with fingerjointed 3/4" birch ply. There's a few boogers, some I didn't see until I took these photos and saw them enlarged. Also the grill cloth and piping is much more burgandy. I noticed the camera pulled more brown. BTW, the speaker cab is loaded with WTS ET-65 & Vet 30. A very good combo if you want to get nice clean & burning OD.

Not at all, I'm glad to know that you care.

I think a big part of the "subjectiveness of tone" is us guitar players are just fickle about all of it.  My Mesa Boogie had a parallel loop and it drove me nuts all the time and I was always saying "I'll never use another and I liked the old serial I had in other amps".  But, the truth of the matter it was possible to get it tweaked in with the different effects I was using at the time.

So, when it came to finding out what the Mr. D thought was the right solution, I thought it made a lot of sense to me. But who knows, I may change my mind down the road.

Most of all, I was just trying to reply to the OP's inquiry within the context he was asking. I really don't know what happened beyond that.

Perhaps the SSRI's ran out.

Just be careful thinking a parallel loop is the end all, be all. The trick to serial loops is having quality effects in them and as few as possible. The same is true for parallel too. I found phase cancellation issues a problem with parallel loops.

No, WTF are you talking about? 

So, I totally took your post the wrong way? Correct?

And considering you don't know me and I like women, address me by my name please.