Yes, thats what I do on my Ceriatone with the Hammond 22798 PT, using the 5V winding.

The tube is off spec - and therefore useless.

The tube is 'running hot'. This means that the bias is set much too high for this particular tube. If you turn down the bias pot the tube would probably run cooler, but the other output tubes would the run too cold.

Just get anoter tube.

Most consumer amps (from fender, marshall and peavey and others) and cabinets are build from particle board. The vast majority of players don't know and don't care.

I prefer pine for my cabinets. Pine has both a high pitch and a low pitch when you knock on it as compared to both baltic birch ply and particle board. I guess thats why it has a wider frequency spread.

Burak, great that you got it solved. However, as JD0x0 said you gotta allow the amp time to burn in. I will mellow dramatically after 50-100 hours.

I read about a guy who attach a cd player with jazz guitar to mellow his amps.

The PI trimmer is used in order to get the same AC voltage on both V3 triodes.

1) So the best way to adjust it, is using a tone generator with e.g. 400hz and put a large dummy resistor in your speaker jack and turn up the master volume a little bit. The measure AC to ground at both pin 1 and pin 6.

2) Another procedure is setting the PI trimmer so that pin1 gets 6-8 volts DC more volts than pin 6.
Pin1 will usually have more DC voltage when set for best tone....

3) Use your ears.....listen. And adjust the trimmer for maximum feel, sustain, harmonics, and feedback. Some people like to turn up the amp dampen the guitar strings with your hand a gently rubbing the strings and liste for max high frequencies and hiss.


PS this subject has been throughly covered on this forum, so use the search function to get more knowledge 

Sure,

The easy solution is making an adapter with a Male DIN plug in one end and two female jack plugs in the other end.

For my 50w ceriatone OTS with 6L6 tubes, I've used a hammond power transformer (model: fe022798) and choke (model: fe125c1a) The transformer has all the windings needed e.g. 6.3V and 5V. The latter used for the relays in the amp.

For Output I bought a Mercury Magnetics FTBO. The MMs are a little hyped and I'd probably be just as happy with Niks output transformer or Hammond or Heyboer ditto. Go for a 'Bassman' capable version preferably with multible secondary windings (4 ohm, 8 ohm and 16 ohm) for relevant speaker cabinets. Even though, I only use the 8 ohm tab on mine.

I've read some posts on Ampgarage.com about Niks power transformer being a little underrated. I don't know if this is true (or would be relevant for your specific application), since I ordered my kit without trannies and bought the above mentioned transformers locally in order to save expensive fraight costs.

You can be quite confident that Nik's amps will deliver the goods, once you allow a 'burn in' period of 50-100 hours, which is common for all amps. 

+1

Which design do you follow? the 101HRM?

Exactly, Class D are digital amps.
So yosemitespam , lower your guns and go back to school ;-) You gunslinger, You.

Rember to use a higher (than 9v) voltage supply, though.
Often OP-Amps are supplied with insufficient supply, causing them not to tolerate the voltage swing in a tube amp without clipping. They're fine at bedroom volume, but wont stand up at gigging volume.

The Klein-ulator that use FETs has a voltage tripler, turning 9v supply into something more useable.

The 2x 100uf caps in a 50w OTS are real shitty.

You can easily up these to 2x200uf instead. I have installed a pair of 'FT' caps from www.tube-town.de
Gives mere Robben Ford sound 

Ok, now it makes sense  so Dumble=gog. No, that would be blasfemi 
Doh - I'm a big fan of Simpsons, but never heard of Dr. Nik, though.   

Peace bro

What does "diety" mean?