Replace the switch. It's very likeley a SPDT (maybe DPDT) toggle. Rat Shack should have one.

Those POS SOB's. And these are the guys all worried about congress making sure there jobs are secure.

Yeah, I know him quite well. First, I think dealing with him privately would be much more appropriate since he has and is communicating with you. I know for a fact that this unit was in perfect working condition. However it is quite possible that it was abused by the shipper and the switch has been broken. These things happen.

Do you have a DMM? If you don't want to send it back and you want to keep it you could check the switch to see if it is within the switch and then make a decision based on that.

But all this should be discussed with between you two.


Edit: This was written before your second post

Cool!! They sure are a joy.

Sorry to hear about the broken tube. I know the whole time I was using mine without a head cab, I was dreading breaking tubes.

Thanks, but I just haven't got around to either bulding one or replace my Fulltone Clyde.

OD channel with no PAB
OD trim @ 10:30
Volume: 6
Drive: 4
Level: 3
Treble: 6
Mid: 4.5
Bass: 3
Presence: 8

I had the guitar's volume up pretty much full. The SC pup's in my guitar are proned to needing to be up pretty full or just slightly lower or else they get rather lifeless.

I usually don't have the presence turned up that high, but in this case I did. One thing to understand is that my amp is somewhat different than yours. For instance, there is an OD trim on the back as well as inside on the board. Generally speaking it's my feeling that less is more with these amps. Setting gain lower is usually better than higher. I imagine that all these things are on a amp to amp basis. Based on the exact circuit and what tubes, etc. are used.

What Todd posted is a good place to start. I think most set their OD trim to be about 20K to 25K from the wiper to ground. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

In the loop of a Clator is a TC 2290 and in the loop of the 2290 is a BYOC Reverb Pedal

In front is a

Dan Armtrong Orange Squeeze Clone > Xotic BB Preamp > sometimes a Big Muff Clone > BYOC Envelope Filter > Univibe Clone>Amp

I need to get a Wah real bad.

Here's a clip I did quickly. It's just some noodling. The strings on my gutar are dead and no eq on the recording. See what you think. I probably should have added a little more drive on the channel. But normally, I'll use the PAB and/or my BB preamp pedal for added drive.

HRM 50W w/Clator (TC2290 & Reverb pedal)
OD channel with no PAB
OD trim @ 10:30
Volume: 6
Drive: 4
Level: 3
Treble: 6
Mid: 4.5
Bass: 3
Presence: 8

http://home.comcast.net/~soundperf/myfilelocker/Music/JMSS.mp3

I decided to remove my posts as to not clutter the OP's thread and digress from the mission at hand . No conspiracy or anything. 

For the OTS?

First let me say that I don't disagree with much of what you are saying here. (Although I do not agree 100%) When I hear someone talk about getting a tube amp to sound like a cranked tube amp, but at bedroom levels (whatever that means) I just don't think it's possible. I'm not even necessarily talking about power tube saturation, but more the fullness of the dynamic range that is achieved. I just finished building my dlator and experimenting extensively this week and no matter how you cut it, it's always a matter of "robbing Peter to pay Paul" sort of thing. As soon as you turn down whatever level to bring the volume down to low levels all the "fullness and open air dynamics" start to get lost.

I still love the Dlator for the fact that you can hit the PI harder (or sometimes not) and get another level of gain to play with and smooth things even further. Also when cranking the amp it gives even more control. Plus it is still nice to have the lower level control that you do get...and also the main purpose of being a buffer.

Basically, it's all an over simplification because it's everything from the preamp to the power to the speakers that make that cranked amp sound, sound so great. And the thing is, I'm not even talking about ear blistering levels, just that point where it comes alive. Which has always been in my experience, a level that most wifes, kids, neighbors, and basically non-guitarists find to be "too loud". 

That's why I say "screw em"....play it louder!! 

Just to clarify, I don't think hitting the PI harder with Dlator necessarily transfers to driving the power tubes the same way as driving the whole amp circuit from input to output hard.

I have to agree with this for the most part. The C-lator does give another level of tone shaping, but it's going to be in the preamp. Nothing will substitutes cranking an amp, but cranking the amp.   The attenuator does help get you there, but I was never really impressed with the results using them with most amps. Even a low wattage amp is relatively loud once cranked to its sweet spot. But overall I would say a lower wattage amp is the best solution.

Man, that looks great!! Very nice lead dress.

I dig the braided power cable. Is that DIY or a certain brand?

Here's a link to other links of a lower wattage D-style amp.

It sounds awesome and I want possibly build this someday!

http://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15526

Sounds very nice, erwin.

So your "BM clean w/standard OD mod" is mod that was used on this amp?

Once again, nice job.