Who's chassis and board is this, not from Ceriatone is it?
It is hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like the Neutral is fused.  Am I seeing that correctly?
On V1 you could try reversing the orientation of that chubby, Sozo, 0.68mf so that the foil side (the side of the cap with the line) is toward the front panel.
I have a few other ideas, but lets wait and see what the tube swapping does.
Nice clean build by the way. Looks like you did a nice job!!

I have never seen a schematic for the  SS/Tube rectifier mod.  It would be easy to find out, but how important is that to you?  Not sure what your tech did, but I assume he left the tube rectifier in place and just by-passed it to the SS Recto.  Can you pull your chassis and take a look?  What I am thinking is your tech made the SS mod easily reversible.  You probably just need to disconnect the PT from the SS and hook it up to the Tube Rectifier, and the same with the output of the rectifiers would be true.  Just connect the path of travel back to the Tube Rectifier, the SS will just sit in the chassis unused.  You will need to re-bias of course. 
The "difference" in power tubes can be pretty substantial, but it can also seem subtle.  It really depends on the playing style of the musician.  I think you would appreciate the change back to the KT66 tubes.  That is a pretty nice amp you have, I would return it to its original design if it were me.
Good Luck

What are you asking for exactly?  Never heard of the 45 to 50 mod you are talking about, but that does not mean there isn't one.
You do not say you need help with your JTM45, so I assume you are clear where that amp is concerned.  Regards the resistor being added to the bias pot, I assume there was insufficient bias adjustment when the EL34 tubes were installed.  The tech either could not get enough negative voltage, or he had too much negative voltage on the Power Tube grids.  The added resistor increased the swing of the bias circuit in the direction that your tech needed.

It is impossible for me to know, via a written forum, how much "hiss" you are hearing.  It is "normal" for there to be some hiss present in your amp.  But how much is too much?  That is hard to determine with just words.  As volume increases, any hiss that is present will also increase.  Treble and Presence may add to your amount of hiss.  Tubes are always a suspect in a tube amp.  Try new pre-amp tubes one at a time , staring with V1.  If you do not have any spares you need to buy some immediately.  In the mean time try swapping tubes.  Remove the tubes from V1 and V2, reinsert them in there opposing tube socket.  Install V1 in the V2 socket and install V2 in the V1 socket.
Try that for starters and tell us what happens.  Post some pictures if you have a chance.  Did you build the amp by yourself?
Good Luck

I did not realize where you were at in the build process.  If you do not even have the secondaries hooked up and you are blowing the mains fuse, you must have something wired wrong somewhere.  It will not hurt your PT to power it up the way it is, just make sure any secondary wires are isolated/taped/protected from shorting to anything.  If your heaters are functioning properly, I would suggest taking a breather and closely double checking all of you connections against the schematic/layout.  Schematics are free and easy to print, don't be afraid to use a pen or highlighter to mark each connection on paper as you verify them and any component polarity/values.
Good Luck

I don't know where I was getting MM from either.  I am 50 years old and my eyes are failing me I guess.   But yes, your heaters are fine.  Your secondaries sound like pretty normal numbers also.  It is pretty rare for a new PT to be bad, it happens but not very often.  Does the fuse blow with the power tubes out of their sockets, did you double check the fuse value?
Good Luck

The heaters are normal, almost a dead short.  Maybe 0.5-2.5 ohms, do you get something like that?  I would think the secondaries would read much more DC resistance than that.  Did you ask Triode??  They are a very reputable company.
Are you talking about 2 different amps and two different sets of tranny's ?  That is to say, if you already have iron from Triode, why would you also get transformers from Merc Mag ?
Speaking of MM transformers..... have you looked into other brands ?   Heyboer, Pacific, Hammond, Triode (which are probably Magnetic Components tranny's, not to be confused with Merc Mag)  Generally speaking, MM pricing is very high.  Did you get a good deal from them ?
Good Luck

Dude -
Nik's business is in Malaysia.  Don't you think it would be completely cost prohibitive for him to have his Transformers, Chassis, Tube Sockets, Face Plates, Pots, E-Caps, and all the other parts/components made in the "good old USA" and shipped over seas to his shop for assembly??
Maybe you should be looking at Weber, Metro, Mission, etc. etc. etc.
Good Luck

I would concur with the posters above.  Seems like a strange request.  If it really bothers you that much, you can have a metal faceplate (and rear) made for relatively little money by somebody like......http://www.bnplasers.com/index.html
After that you can, you can decide if you want to change a component or two.  Nik already offers a Master Volume, so that is not a problem.
Good Luck

Before there were loops.... I am not an effects guy, so I am  quite naive.  But what do all the guys with a Holy Grail do?  Do you really HAVE to run verb through a loop, do you use a lot of distortion AND reverb at the same time?
Good Luck

I always choose function before form.  I HATE under the board jumpers, connections, etc.   Unless it is guaranteed to cause oscillation, or some other type of problem, I put all components, connections, jumpers, on one side of the board.   I will never win any Harry Joyce awards, but who cares ?!!?!!?  I prefer to see everything, and not guess if something underneath might have fallen off, have cold solder, etc. etc.  I have a 1971 Marshall Super Lead, it has the preamp filter cap underneath the board.  It is not necessary to deal with that can very often.  But when you do need to..........
Anyway, that is how I feel about building under the board.   I would much rather look at a few extra wires, than a pretty chassis that plays hide and seek.
Good Luck with your video.

Yes, I have to agree.  Nik is a very helpful guy, hard to believer it is always him alone.   Makes you think he must have staff(like a movie star) that answers all his mail for him.  If you stop to think about what he has done with Ceriatone, it is pretty amazing.  Even if he had stayed with the Fender, Marshall, Hiwatt amps (stuff with a schematic available) I would still be duly impressed.  I do not think people realize how hard it is to build all those amp "prototypes" (in a sense), make sure they all work correctly, and then put them into production while assuring the quality and tone do not suffer.   Stop for a minute and count the number of Fender and Marshall clones he has on the market, and they all work without fail.
But then he got into the more proprietary chassis' like Matchless, Dumble, TrainWreck, etc.  That must have been hard to do.   I am not in any way, taking anything away from, Mr. Sampson, Dumble, or Fischer.   Those guys did what they did and should be recognized for their talent and genius as the original creators of some very important (and iconic) guitar amplifiers.  Nik has done something very different, but also quite impressive.   He MUST have some type of engineering degree(s).  Does anybody know his story, background, biography?  Does he have a collaborator, or assistant of some type?
Thank You

These are pretty complex amps, with A LOT of components.  From your pictures, I would say you did a nice, clean job of assembly.  You really only had one big problem.  Glad to hear you are on Easy Street now.
Good Luck

erwin brings up a good point.
It looks like half of your pre tubes are not working.   You should have similar voltage on Pin 1 and Pin 6.
But other than that, yes, your voltage chart looks MUCH better to me now.  You did a good job of sticking with this. 
Well Done !!!

This is getting a little confusing.



Bias voltage refers to the -VDC (negative) that is on Pin 5.  But you say those numbers are positive, and that you are reading them from a "bias meter". 
Bias voltage is normally read with a DMM.
A bias meter would normally read plate voltage (pin 3) and plate current on pin 8.
What concerns me is:
1.  You are getting positive bias voltage on Pin 5. (34.7 and 35.3)
2.  You are reading approximately 70 milli amps (71.7mv and 70.8mv) and have a plate voltage of  450 volts (452 and 453).  That is pushing those 6L6 tubes really hard (about 31-32 watts).
3.  Your screen voltage just seems way too low to me.   You are dropping well over 100 volts across the screen resistors.  Can you verify the value of one of those?  I do not think you should not have enough screen current to drop more than 5 volts.