Its drawn 1:1. Print at full size and measure it or print 1:10 and scale from the drawing.

USe the layers function to remove extraneous information from the drawing.

Very nice playing again Doc.

Thanks Doc, but input level isn't my problem, and indeed that mic I mentioned has a -10dB pad on it. No, its the automatic gain control on the camera thats the problem, as soon as the level dips, it jacks up the gain.  I know some have experimented with a very high (inaudible) frequency feed patched into the line that fools the AGC when no additional signal is present. I am waiting for a firmware u/g on the camera which I hope will have a level control, failing that I will have to investigate further.

Seems to be capturing the sound well Doc, what make is it?. I bought a Rode SVM for my DSLR in order to try and record my band but the camera has no means of adjusting the level, its always on automatic so I do get some clipping unfortunately. It does seem as though your camcorder is doing a good job with the levels, does it have a manual level setting?

No, probably not, you might simply have an unbalanced valve, try another one.

100 watt gives very little extra volume, but you get a bigger tone, even at lower volumes.

Thats a bit drastic!. Just change the few components that are different.

OK thats reasonable, however I think I might look at having some trimmers accessible through the chassis using a screwdriver maybe.


Wait till you see what else I've got planned. Light up logo but not anywhere near as plasticky as Matchless.

I am thinking ahead and the next amp I am planning on building will be the BM100 HRM. I would very much like to have the HRM TMB controls on the front fascia. Obvious way to do this would be using dual concentric pots but the problem is getting the right values.

I know you can get 250k/250k and 500k/500k for guitars but does anyone know where you can get real good quality dual pots that offer the correct ranges for this amp (25k/20k seems to be the most problematic). I note the BM has 250/25/500 and the hrm stack has 220/20/220 but I guess changing the 220 to 250 wouldn't hurt  but a 500/250 might be a problem getting hold of.

I'm also planning on pimping my chassis somewhat. Electric blue anodising, anyone know any reason why this might be a bad idea, technically I mean?

Any help much appreciated

12v supply for the pedal relays.

I did the mods to v2 that Pickmaster posted about a year ago. That involved an On-On-On DPDT switch to change between three different values for the v2b snubbers. Well worth doing. FWIW I think I have mine on the highest setting of about 800pF but don't quote me on this my memory might be on the blink. Search Pickmasters posts to find his modded layout.

My battery powered watch does it when near to the pcikups.

We were perplexed at your comment that


and frankly thought it sounded a little condenscending.

Not quite sure what to make of that comment. He is no slouch, his playing is definitely not wooden and he does not sound like RF.

Go and see this guy. Doesn't matter if you're not into Blues, his tone and playing is phenomenal. 4 dates in May. BTW his amp tech hates Ceriatone amps, he is quoted as saying the components are cheap and nasty (or words to that effect)

http://www.mattschofield.net/shows.html Plays either a TR CRS or Bludotone (Larry Carltons amp) Sounds great through anything though.