That is close, but it is still pretty high. You may want to change the meter battery for a new one and try it again.  It would not hurt to measure your wall voltage again also.  You might have a lot of voltage from the wall, it would be good for you to know, although that can change throughout the day.
You can hook it all back up and see what you get with the tubes all drawing current.

Usually a bad power tube will pull the AC to ground, so the reading would be Zero. Your number of 11.2 is suspiciously high.  The transformer does not normally supply that much voltage. You need to desolder the heater supply leads from the first power tube so you cam measure the supply from the transformer. If that supply is 11 volts, your PT is wound wrong and needs to be replaced.  It is possible, but bad trannies do not happen very often.  So you need to measure the 3.15 tranny wires and see what they give you.  Just make sure they are disconnected from the power tube and the pilot light.  Like I said, if that says 11.2 then your PT is bad.
Regards the DC, yes, I assume there is a decimal you are not seeing. 87.2 VDC sounds reasonable at this point.
Good Luck

OK -
Just to make sure, check both fuses with you meter to make sure they are good.
Pin 2 and 7 are AC and you read that with one lead on Pin 2 and one lead on Pin 7, not to ground... and you get Zero volts? That means you have no filament supply and the tubes will not function.  Disconnect (unsolder) the heater wires from the first power tube and measure those two wires just like you would a tube, one lead to each wire.  You are checking for 6.3 VAC.  Make sure the wires do not touch.  If there is no voltage there, do the same to the pilot light.  I am thinking you have a short in one of your tubes, and not a bad power transformer.  If you get 6.3 Volts from the transformer then you must have a bad tube that is shorting the heater supply to ground.
I can see Pin 5 having -85 VDC, but not 10 times that much. I think that tap of the PT only supplies 100 volts. You might want to check that again, meter on VDC, black lead at ground, red lead at Pin 5.
Good Luck

Electrically it does no matter.  Arrange it so the hot lead is located on the same side as the fuse. this will accommodate ease of wiring.
Good Luck

I would pull the power tubes and make sure you have:
1. Negative DC bias voltage at Pin 5
2. AC Heater voltage at Pin 2 and 7

If either of those are missing you can just work back wards through the circuit until you find where the loss originates.  Let us know what you find.
Good Luck

Weber has cabs for both styles of Tweed Twins, 5E8 and 5F8.  But if you are looking for a 1 x 12 cab for a chassis the size of a Twin, you will have to have one custom made I would think.
Good Luck

At the pot side, the conductor goes to its designated lug, the braided shield needs to be untwisted from the conductor insulator and then twisted back up, so it forms its own wire. Then that braided shield (now a wire) goes to ground. So the "two wires" are the center conductor and the braided shiled.
At the tube side you only use the center conductor to its destination. The braided shield gets cut back and Is Not Used. If you have some heat shrink tube, you can make a sanitary/safe off to cover any little bit of braid that might be exposed.  The idea is to make sure that the braid does not make any contact at the tube side of your connection.
Does that make sense?

https://taweber.powweb.com/store/wccabs.htm

http://www.mojotone.com/amp-parts/Cabinets;jsessionid=0a0104451f437efdd6db7e37418f88568a42bc335033.e3eSbNmQaheLe3iOby0

https://www.stoneagecustomcabinets.com/home.php

Here are a few in the USA.
Good Luck

"I have to say that the build quality is astonishing and I think these amps are actually better built than their original counterparts, the handwiring is flawless and you get a taste of boutique quality at a far more reasonable price.

I'll try to post some clips once the tubes start to break and I get used to this tone monster.

See you!!!"

You reminded me of the first time I saw the guts of a Ceriatone.  It was a friends model 1986 "plexi".  I was completely floored by how well made they were, how good they sounded, and of course the reasonable price.  The cost of shipping has gone up quite a bit since then, and there are more companies that offer kits now, but Ceriatone still has a lot to offer.  Nik has got to be a pretty "successful" small business.
Good Luck

Your question is a bit unclear, can you post some pictures?  What brand pots are these?  Alpha pots are usualy pretty easy to solder onto. But otther brands, like CTS, can be more difficult.  Sometimes it is necesarry to sand/scuff the back of the pot so the solder will flow and grab.

I can help you, I built one of these heads.  What did you want to know exactly? I tried your email but, I got a failure notice.

There isn't one.  Plus, for the price of a decent attenuator you can buy a small SE amp. Valve Jr., Champ/Vibro Champ, etc.  IME attenuators are much better suited for taming stage volume on 20-100 watt amps.
Good Luck

Nothing to be sorry for.  You did not do anything wrong, I did.  As wyatt pointed out, just remove the SS device from the tube socket and reinstall the Recto Tube.  If you go back to KT66 you may need to deal with the resistor change in the bias circuit, and follow proper use of the impedance selector 
Good Luck

Hey Wyatt -
I should have known better.  I was under the impression his "tech" had "modded" the amp in some way and he wanted to undo it.  I guess removing a Weber Copper Cap would definitely qualify as undoing it..... :

Like I said, I do not know what your tech did.  I assume the High Voltage secondary was diverted to the SS Rectifier.  You will have to rewire the PT secondary High Voltage and 5.0 Volt to the tube rectifier, and also make sure the tube rectified DC  is now the source of the B+ supply to the SB Switch, HT Fuse, Choke, Filter Caps, etc.
I assume the impedance mis-match to the OT was from the change in power tubes.  To compensate for the different impedance between KT66 and EL34, your tech had you select a different ohm setting via the Impedance Selector Switch.  With the change back to KT66 you will now be able to use the impedance selector in its "normal" settings.
Then of course, a check of/re-bias will be necessary. 
Do  I understand you correctly now?