None, you just connect it the same as the 5 pin DIN. Cutout size is different though.

If you search through Pickmasters posts he showed a way to use a two core and earth through a stereo jack to achieve the same thing, only difference is that the PAB light will be ON when PAB is OFF, and thats because of the way HAD wired his relays/override switches.

I did  the mod when I built mine and it is very robust.

I want to get a variety of caps and resistors in stock so I can play around without having to think too much about it before hand, so which make of resistors and caps to order to esnure I don't introduce inferior components?

Anyone recommend a good source in the EU?

TIA

I tried Yellow jackets in my OTS and it changed the tone quite dramatically whereas EL34's didn't change it much.

Powerscaling is a practical solution, BUT I don't think you can then use it with Yellow Jackets/El84's.  Power scaling down to ¼ power is still tonally good and then if you were to install 6V6's and rebias you would be much more sensible volume wise.

There are some provisos with PS, you need a reliable bias supply and on my plexi I am getting the LondonPower RBX (Raw Bias Auxiliary Supply kit) in order to create that stable bias. You also need a decent master volume prior to the power tubes since as you scale back the B+/bias the signal swing that will then o/d the tubes is reduced. Mine will have a PPIMV fitted in order to achieve this. Fitting the kits is not a simple matter, you need to be well clued up on electronics and I'm not so I am getting an approved LP tech to fit mine.

BTW EL84's sound very different, much more Voxy, chimey even.

Its paid for but not arrived yet. He's always been a Super Reverb man really and the EZG50 is very close. He also wanted a much simpler rig and wanted to get away from all the hype surrounding D* clones and the RF comparisons.

Don't want to put you off the idea but Matt has just moved over to a DrZ EZG 50 and a Matchless King Cobra. And he still sounds the same 

You will have to consider the phase of each signal I think, if you run them together or else you might get some cancellations.

I know some of the wire Nik supplies has a hard insulation cover and I have found that it pays to warm it up with a hot air gun before you do the last few turns with your drill. It then seems to hold its shape better when you remove it from the chuck.

A chassis thats too tight a fit will a right royal pain to get in and out and align the holes for the machine screws. I'd say allow 2-3mm gap at each end which will be hardly noticeable.

The only reason you can see that screw head is because the flash fired and I had it aligned exactly. Ordinarily its invisible.

Like the problem I am having with my DZ-30 if you can't reliably replicate the problem its mighty tricky to find it. All I know is that my problem will only rear its head when i absolutely need it not to.........

No chance of changing to EL84's unless you use THD Yellow Jackets, I have some and it changes the amp a lot, brighter the character of the valve shows through but still no where near as nice as a DZ-30 so I took them out and they have never been back in.

EL34's were very little different in my OTS, I think you'd need to A/B them side by side to hear the difference.

It might be  a good idea to run checks against the voltage chart.

And just to clarify what you are saying, with the amp on Standby you are getting a hum?

Majority of the pain in doing this is learning to use the app in the first place so if you have Autocad and know it , use it.

Illustrator is  called Frustrator for a reason, it is slow to learn and doesn't adapt as well as others to doing specific tasks repeatedly. I use CorelDraw because its superb at customising so the things you use often can be made real quick to get at. It also has much better curver/line/bezier tool functionality than Illy.

I've got something similar with my DZ-30 combo only mine comes on only rarely after playing for a while and it will never do it when you get the chassis on the bench. My attempts to provoke what must be a short somewhere have failed so far which is really annoying as it means I can't gig with it. It is the sound you get when you touch the end of a cable just before you plug it into the guitar whilst said cable is connected to the amp.

If you can make it happen at will then I'd suggest (but only if you are competent working with 450+volts) taking the chassis out connecting it up as normal, induce the problem and start chopsticking the pre-amp signal connections. If you are not completely happy to do this then make a thorough note of what to do to replicate it and then take it and the notes to a tech.

I'm no electronics wiz but first off you're going to need another valve in there, and I don't think I've ever seen a circuit where an EF86 feeds another gain stage.