I now built a cab with a V30 and a G12-65 (a sudden opportunity) (16 Ohm each) which seem to complement one another pretty well. While I am using them in closed cabinet by now, I will try them in an open one as soon as possible as well. I am curious about the differences with that.
Andreas
I'm using an Avatar 2X12 open back cabinet. For the type of sound I want to achieve with this amp and my present playing style, the open back is the way to go. IMO. As far as sound difference, it's what you would expect. A much more open sound with deeper bass response, not as focused as a closed back would be. To me it really depends on the type of sound you're wanting. But, to get those good "Fendery Cleans" with nice bottom end an open back is a must. I think a G12-65 type speaker is better suited for an open back also.
Hello, I don't think "T Wilcox" was suggesting you would be able to do 8 ohms also. Unless you want to get into more complicated setups I would just go with (2x16) for 8 Ohms and be done with it. I usually look at it that if I wanted to add another cabinet it would make for a better fit.
As for power rating, I wouldn't worry about that either. I have a WGS ET-65 and Veteran 30 setup which would be their take on a Celestion G12-65 and Vintage 30 and it sounds super. Other than trying an EV12 speaker (which I never have) I can't imagine a better sounding combination.
I had a long time friend that I haven't seen for a long time over the other day. He is 56 and was quite experienced with music and amps from way back. He doesn't play much anymore and hasn't been in the electric guitar scene for quite some time. When he was in working bands he mostly played Fenders from the 60's. Anyway, I was playing my HRM 50 for him and he got this big smile on his face and just kept saying how he hasn't heard an amp sound like that for a long time. We went our for dinner and a few times out of blue, mentioned how he couldn't believe how good my amp sounded. It seemed to me that the sound sparked some old memories of nice amps of old that he played....I was pretty happy about this.
He was in a band last year, but the keyboard players mom was a control freak and they had no clue on how to set up a PA as you can see in the video. She pretty much tried to push me out of being part of the group. So my wife and i had to pull him out. Plus the keyboard player was much older then the rest of the band and it just wasn't going to work out.
Now I know what's wrong with todays music. What ever happened to a rock band being about almost anything but what someone's mother thinks. Something is not right unless you're driving your parents crazy.
If I was that keyboard player I would be feeling like a real smuck. Besides looking out of place "size wise", if my Mom was dictating how the band I was in was going to be, I would crawl in a hole.
Guys, I'm not quite shure if the RG 400 is the right cable for your guitars. The RG 400 is especially designed for high frequency applications, don't kow if this is the right one for "low" frequencies...
We are not talking about general use guitar cables here, but instead these are for a specific purpose to link the (non-buffered pre-amp out) to a "buffered loop" and then back to the (power-amp in) of the effects loop of D-style amps.
Also, as far as using George L's, I would think you will have to pay close attention to the diameter specs of the outer jacket & shield and the inner conductor of the cable you buy. Otherwise I would be concerned about proper connections. But I imagine if everything was correct it would make for a good solution.
OK so a great friend of mine has a Voodoo V-Plex amp with all the good gear in it. Made in the USA etc etc. Well we did an A/B test tonight against my newly built AFD#35 and we both new what amp was the better one. It was not even a close race but very noticeable that the Ceriatone AFD was the clear winner. Go Nik.
Man bigwebb, your clips are sounding better each time. And the guitar is super cool. What pickups are in it? I'm not a huge fan of graphics on guitars, but I would certainly not mind having that in my collection. The color choice of the flames and black body go really nicely. Looks great in the tweed case.
I was thinking someone on here to make them. I've never even seen the cable itself in a store. My FM 50 is due for delivery next week. It's been a long wait, and if the 400 cables are the best way to go, I'd like to do it right.
I just have never put cables together before and have no idea where to even start or what materials / tools I would need. I just play guitar. I don't change my own oil either.
COuld you tell me how to do it? Or, if you want to make up a set, I live in Wisconsin.
Here's a pretty good "how-to" for making cables. You would basically follow this procedure except using the RG-400. More care may need to be taken with the shield and center conductor than possibly some standard instrument cable. But overall should be pretty straigh forward. BTW, I made a set of cables using these same products and it is a great cable.
As far as making them for you...I suppose you could PM me and discuss it.
I maintained since first playing my HRM that the Jazz setting is very useful and with some adjustments to the controls from the rock setting is a great setting. I notice the the LNFB switch seems more influential on the sound in the jazz setting. Also the deep and mid settings are more useful. I suppose it's due the lesser gain of the jazz side that makes the circuit differences seem more useful. This could possibly be why the PAB sound different in the jazz mode.
Do you mean an actual retailer? Or just someone here to do it?
I doubt you'll find any retailer having them especially with regular 1/4" plugs. These are really meant to be built using BNC type connectors. Where do you live? I have been wanting to build a set of these, but haven't gotten around to it yet.
I bought extra cable just to have some extra, so I made the second cable longer. I have a 6' and a 12' cable. After the first one seemed to do NOTHING MUCH, I used all the cable I had for the other side... I got some Switchcraft right angle 1/4" (gold) plugs from Mouser. I coiled cable up in 8"+/- coils. The cable came from an aircraft supplier I found on the web.
The cable is TOUGH STUFF. Be real careful stripping it with conventional strippers. Also pre-tin carefully so as to be flexible where it needs to be...
The two cables go from the amp to the C-lator and back again. Not to and from the effects themselves.
I think the single cable I'd made up went from the amp to the C-lator...
Thanks for the detailed info. I forgot to check back with this thread. Thanks for the link to another supplier. I like their website. They have a nice selection of wire and cable for decent prices
Last Friday night I tookl the time to make up one of the RG-400 cables and plug it up. When I played it I didn't really hear a difference. So I made up the second RG-400 cable last night and plugged it.
WOW!!!!!!!
I was not "loving" the OD at most any setting (before) as it had some "ice pick frequencies" in there, but what a difference now!!! I know Todd has talked about the "Fizziness" of the OD above about 9:00 on the OD trimmer... Well I got the trimmer ALL THE WAY UP with NO FIZZINESS. The OD has all the gain, but no harshness whatsoever... This amp is starting to really sing both due to the wear in and the RG-400 cables. Cranking the OD trimmer doesn't really add any noticable gain beyond about 12:00, but I did it because I could.
I am a true believer in these RG-400 cables FOR SURE!!! Nik ought to suggest them on his website. They will really tame some frequencies on this beast!!!
Some other things I plan on adding to my FM50 ME: A finished cab... , a TC Electronic G# (I know it'd be used, so maybe a G Major II), a Suhr Minimix II, an EVM-12L with custom T806 cab, and a Sennheiser E609 (permanently mounted where I want it). The TC gear will be the last as it will be replacing a Holier Grail and will be used to generate just a few benign delays. I currently use a Boss DD-20 for all my song specific delays.
Pictures will be posted when I have some cab photos too....
BTW, thanks everyone for the help in making this a reality!!
Glad to hear you're finding tonal bliss. So did you wire up the RG-400 cables using regular quarter inch plugs? And when you said you just had one cable at first, what part of the loop was this? What are the lengths that you are using? I'm interested in doing this, but haven't found enough inspiration to go about actually buying the needed supplies. Thanks for any advice.
Be sure, if you use regularly to change the tip when necessary. Dont be stingy with that
This a really good point. Mine is in need of a new one now. I've been nursing it along, but the last time I used it, it was really making things difficult. I'm too stingy!
Yeah I'm planning to drain the capacitor and start resoldering each pin.
Chris... the solder iron I was using when I first started was the major problem.
It was a cheap, piece of junk I had that was old. Had used it for for other projects around the House. Would not heat up. Thought I'd start with it.... see how it would work.... big mistake.
Went to HomeDepot and got a Weller 40watt... you can almost see the difference on the Pic's..... The good solder joints and clean and shinny... but their are some That I rushed.... made a mess...
But one thing I did not know is making the "hook" for each wire... makes sense. I did "tin" each wire... but did not hook.
Thanks, Craig
Yes, a good soldering iron will do wonders. Sounds like you picked a good one. I think you're on your way to getting things sorted out. You'll be jamm'n in no time.
One thing good about leaving more slack is you have enough wire to redo things.
One this to be very aware of when reworking the tube socket pins is be very careful not to let solder flow down inside the pin socket. This is a big PITA and usually means needing to get a new socket. Oh, and remove the tube first.
Follow what Nik was pointing out. There are definitely some bad solder connections on the tubes. What type of solder are you using and what temp do you have the soldering iron set at? Or what type/wattage iron are you using?
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