You can not use 6v6s together with 6l6s, different voltage requirements. Or even with different power supplies to different tubes it does not make sense tone wise. 4 6V6s will give you about 40 – 50 watt and it will sound nice, will brake up earlier than 6L6s.
No Olaf, you have to change much more than that. As I’ve mentioned to you on You Tube our good friend here on forum and your countryman ERWIN is a great master of modifications and awesome guitarist as well. Possibly he can help you with the mods I’ve mentioned in recent threads.
That sounds fantastic Doc. Are you using the cut control on the OD channel?
Hello Hywel, Yes I do. 12 way rotary. It is on 200pf on this clip, plus V2’s double 330pf.
By the way I have new invention – 4x10 cab which eliminates the beam and same time spreads the sound on 180 degrees. I’m trying to patent it or obtain some kind of copyright licence before it goes on production. Cheers.
Once again: Low slope resistor (not very low though!). Fat sounding Bluesmaster has 47k but there is a 0,02mf after it which cuts down to much bass in comparison to 0,1mf on OTS. 68k slope on OTS is MY PERSONAL favourite which introduces little bit more bass and low mids but most importantly adds natural clean compression to the first tube, so clean gets so called CHIRP and singing quality. I’m a very light touch player and I use very thick pick 3mm Stubby. Compressed clean sound allows me to have less drive on OD trimmer which is kind of clean but fat singing, bloomy, touch sensitive drive tone which does not need PAB to sound great. In short lower slope resistance and less or no capacitance on NFB gives me more TWEED tone enhanced in high frequencies with higher capacitor value on the clean volume pot. Personally I always prefer TWEED to Blackface, more correctly tweed fatness with blackface glassy tone added.
Mr. Fabulous is right in case that higher slope resistor gives you more clean, less fat non compressed (more classic blackface) tone and I’m sure many players love this tone but not me. I like rubbery, spongy, fat, wet, syrupy, singing clean and drive tone.
But I totally agree! Tone is very individual and you have to try to find the best for yourself, tone which makes you play and feel better.
I love my amps. No D-lator in the loop !!! just Digitech RP200
1. Above you recommend a 100 or 120pf on the preamp volume push pull, however it isn't on your schematics. Do you think it necessary to have this and also a 3 way bright switch with values 68 and 120pf? Perhaps having both will provide more flexible variations of all three values of brightness on the cleans. I don’t have push-pull on my amp but you are correct, it will provide more flexibility with the toggle switch on both channels !!!
2. LNFB two way switch. This is standard on the FM ME so no change required here. Correct.
3. On your schematic, the V2,2 snubber’s capacitance is a 3 way switch with 470pf or 680pf caps, however I plan on going the rotary switch path, however only a 6 way is available for me. Which values for the 6 way do you recommend? If my understanding is correct of this function, with the bright switches engaged (both the 3 way switch and the push pull mentioned in point 1 above) creating glassy/two rock type cleans, this rotary switch will remove the highs on the OD channel only, but retain the high mids producing a rounder attack and fatter sounding note definition with the OD. V2s snubbers value static at 330pf. If you use 6 way rotary, I would suggest: 0 (empty pin), 470pf, 680pf, 1000pf, 1200pf and 1500pf. But you have to experiment and chose the caps by your taste, I can’t help you here. 4. The change for the mid boost to 470pf is straight forward, although I'm looking at possibly getting a push pull pot on the bass pot to engage/disengage the bass cap. Great idea !!!
5. Think the drive - ratio x line mod values are straight forward with the values 100k ( to be paired with 100k L pot which is standard on the FM) and 0.01uf to be used with a 1000v ceramic cap. My question here, is if I increase to 0.02 or 0.03, can I roll negate the added fatness of the OD by tweaking the V2,2 rotary switch implemented if i find it too fat? No, rotary only cuts highs! If you want 0.02 and 0,03 you have to implement toggle or push pull (than you have to chose only 0,02 or 0,03) somewhere. I think 0,01 is enough, so less work for you.
6. 68 k slope resistor, 2w. Also ok here, although is there any reason why to choose 2w over 1w? I prefer $2 to $1 !!! Well there is a 250V on this resistor and I’ve noticed it was getting warm, now 2w is cool. 7. Lastly, the presence pot changed to a 1k CORRECT.
GUYS, I’m happy to help but this long posts are taking my time and energy. Also our taste in tone might be different, so best way is to do loads of experimentations with offered mods and chose what is best for YOU ! Cheers
Any burning smell? If not, replace the power tubes, Check the fuse and if it’s gone replace it, switch amp on and try again. If problem persists take it to a qualified tech.
I will mod it together with a friend in about two weeks :-) Just ordered everything mentioned; including the other parts highlighted in that JM Mod. Seems they are not needed... But can't be to bad to change them, too, I guess :-)
My pleasure Thilo, As I’ve mentioned experimenting is a great fun. When you guys finish FM mods, you can try couple of additional changes from JM thread if you wish.
Thanks for listening and your kind words, much appreciated. Put a three way switch on the master volume with an additional 33pf and 68pf caps. This will make an amp brighter if desired. No Dlator needed for that, but if you use effects than you need some kind of buffering device, it can be Dlator or any other.
OK, here we go again, To Thilo – use 2 way small toggle switch to turn the LNFB on or off. 12 way rotary switch or 3 way toggle switch for V2,2 snubber, chose caps for your taste. 68 k slope resistor, minimum 1w. I use 2w. Bright switch minimum 68pf or 3 way switch with 68 and 100pf. Or higher if you like more bright tone. V2s snubbers 330pf and than you increase V2,2s with the rotary or 3 way toggle. 0,01 mf, uf, for a fatter drive tone. If somebody wants more fat increase it gradually to 0,02…0,05 mf but this can introduce flub. After this cap use 100k resistor on X line for more open drive tone if you have 100k L RATIO pot. If you use 200k L or higher RATIO pot, than reduse 180k X line resistor to 33k or 10k. You will have higher OD volume and more open tone, no fizz. Remove bass cap or put small toggle there.
To captanbackfire – use above mentioned mods if you have FM ME but as I’ve mentioned mods will perfectly work with all OTSs.
To StratUltra – I recommend an FM EM over a regular OTS because many useful mods are already there so less work for you for other mods. With above mentioned mods you will have much better clean channel. OD tone is easy to shape with FOUR components: OD trimmer, V2 snubbers and X – line capacitor / resisto combination. First change X line resistor to lower value 100k, 50k, 33k,… than increase 0,005mf cap to 0,01 or bit higher value. Than adjust the OD trimmer for desired gain and than reduce drive highs with snubbers.
IMPOTRANT !!! X line capacitor’s minimum voltage is 600v. I have 1000v ceramic caps.
That’s it, Hope it’s more clear now. Good luck guys and be careful with high voltages.
Hi, First of all, uf and mf both stand for microfarad . U is really Lathin.¨mu¨ - μ . Peple just use uf instead of μf. As l've mentioned both diagrams are almost similar.. I'm not with te computer at the moment and will clarify things soon.. Greg, l understand you love your BM and it is a great amp but moded FM ME has similar or even biger cleans and great drive tone. Switching off the HRM block is a great idea but afterwards you have to tweak a drive components
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