You guys are putting up some nice clips.  I think we are all experiencing a little "extra sizzle" in this amp in it's original layout.  It is frustrating but keep in mind.....

I was in on one of the first Brownnote D'lite amp kits.  It is a great amp.... but in less than a year the D'lite community has tweaked the original layout into a circuit that is really nothing short of amazing but with a dramaticly different (improved) flavour than the stock version.  It's also important to remember that the changes are a result of only a few minor component swaps and not a complete overhaul in the design. 

 I think in due time the Overtone will evolve in a similar fashion.  As good as the amp is I feel the circuit has yet to reveal it's maximum potential.  It's still in its infancy so give it a bit of time for the tweakers to move toward getting the most out of the design.

Keep posting them clips.....I'll be down the basement at the work bench.

I never think of Plexi's as high gain unless you are goosing it with a pedal at ear bleeding volumes.  The Overtone will get you all the gain you want at any volume level.

Those Tung Sols are pretty good.  I've tried Mullards, Brimar, Amperex, Syl's, Matsushitas, JJ's in various combinations and have found the Tung Sols to be just as good.  I settled for a Mullard in V2 for "mojo" but I really can't find much sonic advantage for using NOS tubes in THIS amp.

No, I haven't tried them in this amp.  But, I did go back and forth between the original 6V6's and 6L6's in my Brownnote D'Lite.  In that case, I was going from a 6V6 optomized circuit to 6L6. 

Just a heads-up (for everyone thinking of trying this) about swapping.  I haven't taken a close look at Nik's OT for the Overtone but I'm guessing it doesn't have dual Primaries....I'll check when I get home.  The pair of 6L6's want to see a primary impedance of around 5K and conversely a pair of 6V6's...8K.  Therefore, it isn't a simple case of re-bias and play.  You have an impedance mismatch BUT because there are 4,8, and 16 ohm secondary taps there is leeway to better approximate the correct primary impedance. 

On the D'lite you have an 8K Pri OT  (6V6) that you want to "knock down" to 4 or 5K for 6L6's.  To do so just re-label the secondaries as 2, 4 and 8 ohms instead of 4,8, and 16.  I'm certainly no EE so correct me if my logic is wrong but 6L6 to 6V6 should be the opposite....8, 16, and 32 ohm instead of 4, 8, and 16.   All this being said, a 100% impedance mis-match can sound great and the OT should be able to handle it. 

Discuss.... 

Yes,...gain.  Great playing too. by the way.

That's gorgeous.  Who did the cab work?  Any back shots?

Hey Marin,

Great sounding clip.  I like this one the best.  I would love to hear the same clip and playing with a little less...ummm..."hair".  It seems to be getting pretty wild in some parts...for that style of playing..lol.  You and SPM are the Overtone clip "meisters".  Love it, thanks.

Yes, a 270pf bright cap is a bit much but a 120pf or lower makes it more useable.  I think you have to tweak these amps for a 3/4 open guitar volume pot IF...lol... you are going to play any chords.  Otherwise you are right...it muddies up.  I don't think I've played a chord other than double stops in weeks.

I've reserved myself to the thinking that while the cleans are stellar on this amp it is virtually impossible to switch between the OD and clean channel effectively with the shared tone stack.  For that reason I use the Overtone for OD and some other amp for cleans and an A/B box.  If I need a smaller rig I just use my modded Traynor YCV40wr which has great cleans and an equally nice OD channel with separate tone stacks.

Herby660 is right on.  JJ EL84's are great new production tubes.  Your money should go into selecting some good pre's.   

I'm on a similar track.

Master bright cap removed.
330pf snubbers on V2a and b.
120pf bright cap.
150 K pre OD resistor changed to 220k.
270pf/220K loop network removed.
Can't decide if I want to switch out the skyliner mid values or not.

I may try upping the OD plates to 180/220 and adjust the OD cathode bypass caps and resistors to typical values...seeing what the voltages are and adjusting the dropping string.

Also, I'm going to play with the presence cap value...maybe try a .47uf or something in between.

BGSoul...What is your opinion on adding a snubber between the PI plates on this amp?  There are a quite a few spots to smooth things out I 've just never tried it there.  Simple enough to try I guess.

Beano or peptol should cure ya!  Or do like I do....weight on right cheek, left cheek slightly elevated and ........revel in the silence of the room you've just evacuated.....

Blah Blah...Blah!!...lol.  You guys think you got gas.....I had to wait 6 months.  Originally it wasn't even for me.  One of my customers wanted a D style amp so I asked Nik about it.  It just so happened to coincide when Nik was designing the original OT.  The customer gave up waiting and I have the amp now.  I built him an 18watter which he LOVES so it was a ...win/win.

In a word (or two)...it depends.  The EQ range in conjuction with the switching options makes the amp quite capable to getting close...
But it's not the same....... I think I have it close until I plug into my Super for the real deal scoop.  In many ways I prefer the Overtones cleans.  I find them less fatiguing and sit in a mix better without being so loud.  A certain commitment needs to be made when deciding on a speaker if you want Fender cleans but an EV or JBL might be a good choice for compromise. 

I like it.  Very spanky.  I liked the strat match-up the best.  I'm going to have to build another ef86 amp one of these days.

Well, that was my (brain fart) embarrasing moment of the day....Thanks IC....   Going from memory of a modded bassman instead of actually looking at the Overtone layout...sorry fellas for the outdated and outright unrelated info.