erwin is totally correct!

The Clator is like a Dumbleator.

The loop on the OTS is just an interrupt type, ie totally passive.

The Clator is a unit that adds impedance matching/buffering so that pedals will work with the loop

(Note some pedals will work as is, and most rack units too, with the loop).

Not only that, some coloration (it's not transparent) occurs when the unit is used, mainly in rounding off the highs, and enhancing the mids.

Some use the unit without effects added, just for this effect to the amp's tones.

Furthermore, the level controls on the unit can also be used to further shape the sound / loudness.

Thanks!

nik

Guys,

happy new year!

I just finished a 200W HRM!

KT88s, and with a driver tube like SSS.

It's good that loud amps are still wanted, but then the guy does play arenas all the time.

I think I will release it, just because...

Thanks!

nik

The 5E8A is, well, the late 50s tweed twin.

i think fender also reissued it.

I like it, the dual 5U4 recto is indeed something special, feel wise.

The cleans is really nice, but it reminds me of SRV tones quite a bit if goosed up with a good OD pedal.


Thanks!

Nik

Yeah, it's kind of annoying.

I just got "admin" badge (thanks owner dude!), I'll ban / remove when i see..

Thanks!

Nik

Hi

Megaboost is indeed selecting the value of resistor to ground.

68K would limit the boost a bit, while a larger one (or none at all) boosts a lot.

Sag is a resistor to the HT center tap to ground, to have some sort of a saggy feel when switched in.

As for the heaters on the air, in the kitchen, or against the chassis - doesnt matter, as long as you tweak the other wires, esp the cathodes and to some lesser extent, the grids, away from the heaters.

And yes, HAD hangs in ampgarage these days, passing layouts around

Thanks!

nik

Brian

Happy New Year!

Thats cool man!

As for the FM50, I quite like it. Some find it a bit bright, I guess.

I had a local guy who bought it, and we tweaked it a bit to his liking. Pretty much simple stuff that's done all the time:

a) lower bright cap on the MV
b) 3 way bright cap on the bright switch (68, none, 120pf)

c) 100K slope, 0.001uf treble (instead of 0.0022uf)

d) Switch for the LNFB (local neg feedback loop)

e) Lower bright caps for the Clator as well

f) i also changed the 22m resistors on the PAB relay to 10m.

I guess, my ears are a bit gone, since I dont find the amp that bright?

But then again, I realize that there are people who like it darker (kinda dark for my usual preference), and smoother.

Well, just sayin the mods, if you need it to be less bright, are easy to do.

The switch for LNFB is also always a nice feature to have, IMHO.

The Clator would be nice to have, for sure, but it's not a requirement.

This amp reminds me of the S%M, but less bright.  Its got bite for sure, on the OD.

Thanks!

nik

Hi,

As for the FM50 brightness, it's more preamp zing than brightness I think.

I do have 68pf across the MV.

However, birds sang to me saying the bright cap on the vol pot should be higher, instead of 120pf.

If so, it'd make for brighter amp for sure, if the bright switch is used.

Maybe I should tweak to have both 120pf and 180pf bright caps (3 way switch) on the Vol pot.

On the matter of #183, I do like it a lot, actually. You might want to try different settings on the OD controls, instead of the soft V positions like usual.  Turn in up a bit more.

It's quite smooth, with a lot of body.

As for tweaks, I guess it's not a matter of just changing tubes. You need to also tweak other places.

Of importance, I have found lately, is the wall supply.

If you ever thought that the amp sounds so different day to day, check your wall.

These days, with more and more ppl in my area, at times my V1 plates drop to abt 180V, and that does spoil things.

I have ordered a regulator from my tranny winder. It allows for adjustments to the wall voltage into the amp so that I can set correct voltage, each time.


Thanks!

Nik

Hi brian, mr fab,

Indeed so.

Now, we do burn in for abt 8 hrs total (other than tone test time).

I have made some custom burners as well, we'll be using these soon. Hopefully, we can burn in more amps in one go, for longer time.

For burn in, dont worry too much about it. You can opt to leave it on for a few hours, and then turn it off. Dont leave amp turned on unattended for entire day/night.

I have a feeling it's not about how long you can turn it on in one go. The off cycle is also important, I think. Not sure, haven't really done scientific observation on this.

So, natural playing would be just fine, with some intentional burn in initially.

Thanks!

Nik

Hi,

  OK, I think I have had it with this question. Our website does have About Us page, with Malaysia as the address.

  We have been said to be located in China, Indonesia, Singapore, South Korea, and Israel (?).

  We are in Malaysia, unless otherwise notified.

Thanks!

Nik

Very cool Wyatt!

As for the diodes on tube recto -

The primary reason is really GZ34 with standby switches.

If you want to watch some mini fireworks, try amp that uses GZ34, and also has standby switch.

Toggle the standby switch on and off a few times and you most likely pop the GZ34. This happens to new or even NOS tubes.

The diodes prevent surges from hurting the GZ34, aided by the cap.

Actually, 5Y3, EZ81, 5U4 etc, dont have much of this issue like GZ34. But we just put it there cause, as you know, some will be itching to put GZ34s in 5E3, for example.

Thanks!

Nik

Hi,

Do make sure the HT fuse is 1A slo blo.

It can be a bit triggery if smaller is used.

Do report back on this, esp if the HT fuse still blows when changing mods between tube / SS rectifier, and vice versa.

I havent experienced this, even toggling it back and forth. Not sure if there's some surge at play when changing the modes, will look into it

Also, since this was a kit, did you install the cap/diodes on the recto tube socket? Would be good to protect the tube recto.

Thanks!

Nik

Hi

Not sure, I havent looked at it, the new one.

Should be possible but could be a pain due to space?

Thanks!

Nik

Guys

First, the changes are minimal to do it, really.

I have marked (hope I covered all) where the differences are, on the layout, with the red writings, or shaded components.

Indeed, this was done so those who have OTS can easily mod to the FM, if they want.

The FM, the OD would indeed be much creamier than the S&M. The S&M's a bit for rockin out as well, so it carries some bite.

Thanks!

nik

Hi Steven

Cleans aint that bad as well. Good harmonics in the cleans of this one.

I am quite surprised abt comments on how it's supposed to be quite bright without the clator.

I dont find it is. The S&M would be brighter, for example.

The Clator would be good, we even make custom head cabs now so that the Clator fits in right inside. No more complaints abt hard to carry the clator around?

Thanks!

Nik